Squealing noise above 10mph
10-06-2007, 08:30 AM
#1
No Pain, No Pain!
Thread Starter
Squealing noise above 10mph
I have a 1996 F150 4x4 with manual locking hubs, automatic transmission.
Recently the truck has developed a squealing, high pitched noise when the vehicle gets over 10mph. The noise was intermittent at first, meaning it didn't make the noise every day, but is now present all the time. The noise is hard to pin down. It sounds like it is coming from the center of the vehicle and not one side or the other.
The noise does not stop when I apply the brakes, so I don't think it is related to the brakes. I had the universal joints, and driveshaft inspected by a local repair shop. Both are in good working order with no obvious need of repair. Even the repair shop said they could not pin down where the noise was coming from and said it sounded like it was coming from the center of the truck, which is why the checked the u-joints and driveshaft.
I was hoping to get some idea of what may be causing the noise before I start pulling wheels off or have to send it back to the shop.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Recently the truck has developed a squealing, high pitched noise when the vehicle gets over 10mph. The noise was intermittent at first, meaning it didn't make the noise every day, but is now present all the time. The noise is hard to pin down. It sounds like it is coming from the center of the vehicle and not one side or the other.
The noise does not stop when I apply the brakes, so I don't think it is related to the brakes. I had the universal joints, and driveshaft inspected by a local repair shop. Both are in good working order with no obvious need of repair. Even the repair shop said they could not pin down where the noise was coming from and said it sounded like it was coming from the center of the truck, which is why the checked the u-joints and driveshaft.
I was hoping to get some idea of what may be causing the noise before I start pulling wheels off or have to send it back to the shop.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Last edited by dewman; 10-06-2007 at 08:36 AM.
10-06-2007, 10:39 AM
#2
Senior Member
Since 'squealing' and 'high pitched noise' translate best when being there up close and personal, some WAGs I offer are:
Does the noise vary in pitch or loudness correlating with engine or vehicle speed? Does anything change based on whether the engine's cold or at operating temp? - thinking along the lines of a vacuum leak, bearing failure on a belt driven accessory (alternator, water pump, P/S pump, etc.), AIR pump bypass not working right, etc.
Does anything change if you lock-in the front end? - if you don't know what it is, then back into the solution by figuring out what it's not.
Along the same line, are both sides of the front axle verified to be disengaging properly when in 2WD? - might have an unidentified front drive issue that has been overlooked under the assumption the front end was disengaged.
Any effects from changing HVAC fan speeds, windows up or down, wing vents open or shut? - kind of a stretch, but thinking fan problem, wind noise issue. Again, kind of shooting in the dark here.
Fluid levels OK in transmission and transfer case, and for that matter, rear, and while you're at it, front diffy? - another stretch, but part of the solution by elimination approach.
Does the noise vary in pitch or loudness correlating with engine or vehicle speed? Does anything change based on whether the engine's cold or at operating temp? - thinking along the lines of a vacuum leak, bearing failure on a belt driven accessory (alternator, water pump, P/S pump, etc.), AIR pump bypass not working right, etc.
Does anything change if you lock-in the front end? - if you don't know what it is, then back into the solution by figuring out what it's not.
Along the same line, are both sides of the front axle verified to be disengaging properly when in 2WD? - might have an unidentified front drive issue that has been overlooked under the assumption the front end was disengaged.
Any effects from changing HVAC fan speeds, windows up or down, wing vents open or shut? - kind of a stretch, but thinking fan problem, wind noise issue. Again, kind of shooting in the dark here.
Fluid levels OK in transmission and transfer case, and for that matter, rear, and while you're at it, front diffy? - another stretch, but part of the solution by elimination approach.
10-06-2007, 10:51 AM
#3
No Pain, No Pain!
Thread Starter
Since 'squealing' and 'high pitched noise' translate best when being there up close and personal, some WAGs I offer are:
Does the noise vary in pitch or loudness correlating with engine or vehicle speed? Does anything change based on whether the engine's cold or at operating temp? - thinking along the lines of a vacuum leak, bearing failure on a belt driven accessory (alternator, water pump, P/S pump, etc.), AIR pump bypass not working right, etc.
Does anything change if you lock-in the front end? - if you don't know what it is, then back into the solution by figuring out what it's not.
Along the same line, are both sides of the front axle verified to be disengaging properly when in 2WD? - might have an unidentified front drive issue that has been overlooked under the assumption the front end was disengaged.
Any effects from changing HVAC fan speeds, windows up or down, wing vents open or shut? - kind of a stretch, but thinking fan problem, wind noise issue. Again, kind of shooting in the dark here.
Fluid levels OK in transmission and transfer case, and for that matter, rear, and while you're at it, front diffy? - another stretch, but part of the solution by elimination approach.
Does the noise vary in pitch or loudness correlating with engine or vehicle speed? Does anything change based on whether the engine's cold or at operating temp? - thinking along the lines of a vacuum leak, bearing failure on a belt driven accessory (alternator, water pump, P/S pump, etc.), AIR pump bypass not working right, etc.
Does anything change if you lock-in the front end? - if you don't know what it is, then back into the solution by figuring out what it's not.
Along the same line, are both sides of the front axle verified to be disengaging properly when in 2WD? - might have an unidentified front drive issue that has been overlooked under the assumption the front end was disengaged.
Any effects from changing HVAC fan speeds, windows up or down, wing vents open or shut? - kind of a stretch, but thinking fan problem, wind noise issue. Again, kind of shooting in the dark here.
Fluid levels OK in transmission and transfer case, and for that matter, rear, and while you're at it, front diffy? - another stretch, but part of the solution by elimination approach.
And the noise is the same even with all the other "changes" you mentioned above. Just had the oil changed at Jiffy-Lube and they checked all the other fluids and all were within normal ranges.
I have not tried locking in the front end. I live in a city and don't have anywhere to go to drive on dirt or gravel. I could give it a try, but the handbook says not to drive on hard roads while in 4 wheel drive. Both of the hub locks are on free.
Thanks!
10-06-2007, 11:42 AM
#4
Senior Member
As far as the front end checkout - what I was alluding to was that even though the hubs may be in the Free position, verify that the axle is indeed freed up.
One way would be to stick a screwdriver in the axle u-joint yokes by each wheel and see if it rotates freely.
After this is checked out, put the transfer case in 4W-Hi and take a drive without locking in the front axle so as to spin the driveshaft and axle without actually driving the front wheels to see if the noise characteristic changes.
I don't know that having everything locked in on pavement would be that bad for a short-short test drive as long as you don't have to make any turns - but that's up to you. I think the above two things will accomplish what's intended.
I was also thinking about the high pressure fuel pump failing, but that should occur at all times with the engine running.
Another option would be to put it on a garage lift to see if the noise is present under the simulated lightly-loaded conditions. If this is done - please be very careful - it should go without saying, but rotating tires and driveshafts are very unforgiving to the human body. Jackstands are another means, with the additional hazard of serious personal and property damage should the truck come off the stands during the testing.
One way would be to stick a screwdriver in the axle u-joint yokes by each wheel and see if it rotates freely.
After this is checked out, put the transfer case in 4W-Hi and take a drive without locking in the front axle so as to spin the driveshaft and axle without actually driving the front wheels to see if the noise characteristic changes.
I don't know that having everything locked in on pavement would be that bad for a short-short test drive as long as you don't have to make any turns - but that's up to you. I think the above two things will accomplish what's intended.
I was also thinking about the high pressure fuel pump failing, but that should occur at all times with the engine running.
Another option would be to put it on a garage lift to see if the noise is present under the simulated lightly-loaded conditions. If this is done - please be very careful - it should go without saying, but rotating tires and driveshafts are very unforgiving to the human body. Jackstands are another means, with the additional hazard of serious personal and property damage should the truck come off the stands during the testing.
10-06-2007, 03:14 PM
#5
No Pain, No Pain!
Thread Starter
Thanks for the suggestions. I do not have anywhere that I could test the 4wd without taking any turns on hard pavement. But I think the axle is freed up, I have put over 2,000 miles on it and considering the gas mileage I am getting, I would have to believe it is in 2wd and not 4wd.
And I agree, the jackstand test could be quite dangerous indeed. I may suggest that to the repair shop. They have lifts and could accomplish this with less risk than I could. The problem with that test is that you need to keep someone in the vehicle while it is on the lift so that they could put the truck in drive. Then the person on the ground could listen for the noise and see where it is coming from, hopefully. Not sure they will be willing to try that though.
What I was really hoping for here was that somebody else had this same problem once and they figured it out. I can't imagine that nobody else has ever had this problem before, only me.
Thanks for your suggestions.
And I agree, the jackstand test could be quite dangerous indeed. I may suggest that to the repair shop. They have lifts and could accomplish this with less risk than I could. The problem with that test is that you need to keep someone in the vehicle while it is on the lift so that they could put the truck in drive. Then the person on the ground could listen for the noise and see where it is coming from, hopefully. Not sure they will be willing to try that though.
What I was really hoping for here was that somebody else had this same problem once and they figured it out. I can't imagine that nobody else has ever had this problem before, only me.
Thanks for your suggestions.
10-06-2007, 08:51 PM
#6
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check your ujoints for play. I had the same problem thought my rear drums where engaging prematuraly. it was my rear u joint. snapped 4 months later while doing a burnout. Resulted in need a new drive shaft. And yoke. there like 12 bucks a piece, and you can do em yourself.
If they are u-joints eventually you will hear a pop when shifting from reverse or drive...
Just my 2 cents
If they are u-joints eventually you will hear a pop when shifting from reverse or drive...
Just my 2 cents
10-07-2007, 12:42 AM
#7
No Pain, No Pain!
Thread Starter
check your ujoints for play. I had the same problem thought my rear drums where engaging prematuraly. it was my rear u joint. snapped 4 months later while doing a burnout. Resulted in need a new drive shaft. And yoke. there like 12 bucks a piece, and you can do em yourself.
If they are u-joints eventually you will hear a pop when shifting from reverse or drive...
Just my 2 cents
If they are u-joints eventually you will hear a pop when shifting from reverse or drive...
Just my 2 cents
They checked the u-joints and even removed the driveshaft and inspected
the carrier bearing. They said everything checked out okay that there was
nothing wrong with the u-joints.
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10-08-2007, 01:52 PM
#9
No Pain, No Pain!
Thread Starter
Rear end as in rear differential? Or rear wheel bearings?
I took the truck back to the repair shop for them to continue looking for the source
of the noise. I asked the mechanic there if they had tried putting the truck up on
a lift, while in 4WD and "drive" it to see if they could locate the noise that way.
The mechanic said that they tried that, but that when they did, the truck did not
make the noise at all.
It seems to me that it is an issue that is only present when the suspension and
drivetrain are under load from the weight of the vehicle. Does that change your
diagnosis any?
Thanks for responding!
I took the truck back to the repair shop for them to continue looking for the source
of the noise. I asked the mechanic there if they had tried putting the truck up on
a lift, while in 4WD and "drive" it to see if they could locate the noise that way.
The mechanic said that they tried that, but that when they did, the truck did not
make the noise at all.
It seems to me that it is an issue that is only present when the suspension and
drivetrain are under load from the weight of the vehicle. Does that change your
diagnosis any?
Thanks for responding!
Last edited by dewman; 10-08-2007 at 02:43 PM.
10-08-2007, 04:17 PM
#10
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i say carrier bearing...then. Mines out.
Might also check if its tight. Mine got loose some how? the two bolts that connect it to the frame or body..where ever its connected...they got really loose after torquing and impact gun. iit got loose....
sorry if i might act like im calling you stupid. But ive been asked what it was before.
You center support basically has a bearing in it.
Might also check if its tight. Mine got loose some how? the two bolts that connect it to the frame or body..where ever its connected...they got really loose after torquing and impact gun. iit got loose....
sorry if i might act like im calling you stupid. But ive been asked what it was before.
You center support basically has a bearing in it.
Last edited by A_G; 10-08-2007 at 04:20 PM.