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Old 10-08-2010, 11:30 AM   #1
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Default S-s-s-s-stuttering problem...

...er a sputtering problem when warm and accelerating.

1994 F-150, stock 302, auto, 155k original miles

Background
While driving down the road with the engine running perfectly giving no signs of possible problems, the engine completely shuts down—an instant-off kinda shut down. Turned out to be the pick-up coil in the distributor. Installed new distributor and set timing. Thought the distributor was the only problem until I took it down the road.

Now for the problem...
With the engine cold, it idles and runs normal for about a mile before it starts to sputter on acceleration. Where as if you are light on the accelerator (~1000 RPM) the truck appears to run normal, but if you start to accelerate a bit like you were going up a hill it starts to sputter and spit until you lay off the gas. Now if you were to really hit the gas and put it in the passing gear it will accelerate but will sputter the whole way. Once the engine is warm it will even have a tiny sputter at an idle. You can see the needle tap dancing around 750 RPM. If you really stomp on the gas, it will choke down for a sec before responding sputtering all the way.

Summary
• Problem occurred after replacing distributor
• Runs fine when cold
• Starts to sputter when warms up
• Sputter increases with acceleration

Failed Solutions
• cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires (all aftermarket)
• ECM (mounted on firewall) <--shot in the dark

Could it be a bad distributor? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. If you like I can take some video, let me know.

Thanks,
James
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:41 PM   #2
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Check for codes before spending any more time or money - this thread will show you how:

http://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-ret...es-obdi-10907/

Many of us can help you figure out what the codes are telling you - we just need to know what they are before we can do much more than guess.
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:01 PM   #3
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i had a 95 chevy 5.0 and did the same thing. i rebuilt the tbi new plugs wires coil. finally sucked up my pride and took it to mechanic and the timing was off. took him 5 mins to fix. figures id try the expensive stuff first
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhudgins View Post
...er a sputtering problem when warm and accelerating.

1994 F-150, stock 302, auto, 155k original miles

Background
While driving down the road with the engine running perfectly giving no signs of possible problems, the engine completely shuts down—an instant-off kinda shut down. Turned out to be the pick-up coil in the distributor. Installed new distributor and set timing. Thought the distributor was the only problem until I took it down the road.

Now for the problem...
With the engine cold, it idles and runs normal for about a mile before it starts to sputter on acceleration. Where as if you are light on the accelerator (~1000 RPM) the truck appears to run normal, but if you start to accelerate a bit like you were going up a hill it starts to sputter and spit until you lay off the gas. Now if you were to really hit the gas and put it in the passing gear it will accelerate but will sputter the whole way. Once the engine is warm it will even have a tiny sputter at an idle. You can see the needle tap dancing around 750 RPM. If you really stomp on the gas, it will choke down for a sec before responding sputtering all the way.

Summary
• Problem occurred after replacing distributor
• Runs fine when cold
• Starts to sputter when warms up
• Sputter increases with acceleration

Failed Solutions
• cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires (all aftermarket)
• ECM (mounted on firewall) <--shot in the dark

Could it be a bad distributor? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. If you like I can take some video, let me know.

Thanks,
James
Starts after it warms up implies sensor related. Pull Codes!

Or an alien "will" eat your cow & you'll waste a lot of time & money. (not necessarily in that order)
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:26 PM   #5
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I know it sounds basic but triple check the firing ordering. I have seen the best mechanics make this simple mistake,along with myself.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:08 PM   #6
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Ok, here are the codes as per the procedure. Where the 1's are single blinks and other numbers are repetitive blinks with the 1/2s duration. The periods are the seconds between them.

KOEO
1..1..1....1..1..1......1......1..7..2....1..7..2

KOER
6..3..2....6..3..2

I didn't see any code definitions or references in the procedure, but did find this list on another website. Please review this info and let me know if you see anything of importance. Thanks again for all your help.

James

Last edited by jhudgins; 10-24-2010 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Added add'l informaiton.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhudgins View Post
Ok, here are the codes as per the procedure. Where the 1's are single blinks and other numbers are repetitive blinks with the 1/2s duration. The periods are the seconds between them.

KOEO
1..1..1....1..1..1......1......1..7..2....1..7..2

KOER codes are coming. Lost my paper, need to repeat the test.
How many miles on your o2 sensor?
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:26 PM   #8
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My O2 sensor is original. But wouldn't a faulty O2 sensor give an engine light?
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhudgins View Post
My O2 sensor is original. But wouldn't a faulty O2 sensor give an engine light?
Playin hard to get I guess. But they start loosing accuracy & switching speed by 60K. By 150K, they're costing you money in poor fuel trim capabilities!

Two reasons it could be "alway's lean" as a continuous memory code. Something is causing you to be always lean, or your 02 senor is no longer switching because it's pooched! W/ 150k on it, it's no longer your friend either way.

So where's your KOER codes?
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymeski56 View Post
So where's your KOER codes?
Sorry, I went and edited my post so you didn't see them.

KOER
6..3..2....6..3..2
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:18 AM
 
 
 
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