Leolo007

Hello, I'm replacing the spark plugs on my 95 302, So far I've loosened sparkplug 5, 6, 7 and 8 and removed 8. It snapped in the process btw but I was still able to remove it. So, I noticed a lot of rust and I'd like to clean the area but I don't want any particles to go in the cylinder. Is there a proven way that everybody does to go about doing this that I'm not aware of?

I'm guessing blow some air while the spark plug is loose but not removed? (Too late with cylinder 8) should I blow air unto the cylinder in case anything already fell in while removing the spark plug?

Thanks for advice!!

Leolo007

I was hoping for a quick answer as I was working on this at the time, but no big deal. I consulted a Chilton manual and it said to blow compressed air. So I did that.

Spark plug colors look good, they're dry, and definitely worn. All normal for used spark plugs that were due for replacement, except from some kind of gunk or maybe it's carbon deposit, it pulverized between my fingers, is this normal or is it a sign of some other issue?

Leolo007

Btw, the threads look oily from using PB blaster

Crownman

That black stuff carbon deposits. The engine might be running a little rich. Or it could be from the worn plugs not making a good burn. Put the new plugs in and check the them in about 6 months to see how they look.

fltdriver

x2, I usually run some seafoam through the booster line and the intake a couple of days before changing my plugs, it helps loosen/remove any carbon buildup in the combustion chamber and on the piston head. Do it before you change plugs so you don't gunk up your new ones. Just a suggestion for you. If you went copper/copper then it's recommended that the plugs be changed every 10k miles, copper/plat (copper core platinum tip) is something like 25k miles. It's a general consensus on here that c/c are the "best" for this truck, I went c/p because they last longer, don't gap as much, and only cost $0.50 more a piece (less if you get them with mail in rebate). Either way you go you should use some anti-seize on the threads (I picked up a 10oz tube of anti-sieze/dielectric grease from lowes for <$5) and PROPERLY apply dielectric grease.

Most people believe that dielectric grease is a conductor and apply it in a fashion to help promote electrical current, the problem with this is that it's actually an insulator and prevents current flow. Proper use with spark plugs is around the ceramic node, on the inside of the plug boot, and a small amount on the threads (if anti-seize), this keeps contamination away from the connection. A THIN layer on the connecting pin is fine as the plug clamp will remove it as it snaps onto the pin. When used on battery terminals/chassis grounds it should be used after assembly to keep contamination away, with electrical connectors it's best when used like with plugs, around the seal to prevent contamination from entering the connector.

I only bring this up because there are so many out there who believe it's a conductor, one of my buddies (total gear head) brought his truck by at the beginning of spring with major running issues. Turns out he had pretty much filled the plug boot with dielectric grease then snapped it onto the plug.

Leolo007

Thanks guys! I installed Bosch Platinum plugs. What was on there prior was also platinum plugs. I don't know if it's me but I feel like the idle is a bit rough... I don't feel it in the RPM but I feel the truck shake a little on idle, maybe it did the same before I just never noticed and pay more attention now that I replaced the plugs...

Picture of old and new just for the heck of it