superduty

Have oil leaking from the bell housing so I guess that means rear main? Anyone have a how to or any advice. The tranny needs a rebuild so I guess imma do that while it's out. Any suggested upgrades for what I believe to be a aode. I just changed the oil pan gasket. And it fixed the leak for about 2 months but it's back.

It's a 93 bronco 302 auto 4x4 trans code e

Welder7018

Transmission wise? A shift kit. Engine wise if you want to replace any other old cork gaskets with rubber ones.

LobstahClaw

Mine is always wet on the bellhousing but the amount of oil loss is negligible. It doesn't even leave an oil spot under the truck.

Oil pan isn't much fun. Haven't done a 302 but on the i6's i had to loosen the motor mounts and lift the engine to get the pan out. Once it was out i cleaned all the mung out of the bottom of the pan. Gave it a degreasing and then installed the gasket with gasket shellac. Let it set overnight, and by the next morning the gasket would stay in place while re-installing the pan.

If you've got the transmission out give the transfer case a good going over. That might/might not need service too.

superduty

It's leaving a oil spot. I'm going to retighten the pan bolts tomorrow. And yes it's a pita to do the pan on a 302 also. Is the rear main hard to change? As far as the tranny goes I know on a Chevy there's certain springs you leave out for harder shifts an also you can change the planets and up the line pressure. I'm not sure how to service the case I planned on changing the fluid though.

LobstahClaw

What i was thinking was that it would be a whole lot easier to lift the motor off the oil pan with the transmission removed. If you can get by with just tightening the bolts so much the better. It's not a very fun job.

If i'm getting into something i haven't done before i usually read up on it first. The shop manuals are a big help.

I'm not sure which transmission you've got. Chances are good that it's shifted electronically by something like a powertrain control module (computer). The nice thing is that you can buy aftermarket kits that you can use to tune the transmission the way you want it.

The downside is that it's a whole new ballgame for someone that's always worked with transmissions that were mechanically shifted. It's such a specialized area of knowlege that you're almost better off to leave it to the transmission guys that work with them every day.

The transfer case is probably a Borg Warner 1356 that is shifted either electronically or manually. That one uses ATF as the lubricant and not gear oil. There's not that much to em' but again ... read up before hand so that you know what you're getting into before you start.

superduty

Well I re tightened the pan bolts this morning once i got to work. Every one took at least a half a turn. On a side note I guess it's leaking more than I thought. I left the house this morning and my oil pressure gauge dropped to nothing so I drove the rest of the way to the gas station about a mile and added 2 qts. Only lost pressure when I was on the gas. But added 2 qts and it's still reading 1.5 qt low but I wasn't buying 4 qts of sorry *** gas station oil. After I added oil the oil pressure gauge never moved and it ran cooler. According to the factory gauges/dummy lights.

bubbabud

That extra mile to the gas station could very well have done major damage and to not top it off because of the difference in the cost of the oil is very false economy when you compare the cost to a new set of bearings and crank. the very worse sorry gas station oil is a 1000% better than no oil

superduty

I've never heard of some one having major problems from being 1.5 qts low on oil. It's not like I was racing. And also that extra mile was pretty much at idle with pressure. It only lost pressure when taking off from the stop sign. The one time. Never happened again after I added 2 qts.

I could see damage with it being 3.5qts low but it said it had pressure the valves weren't pinging or chattering the lifters weren't Makin noise. Every thing sounded fine I think it will be alright Drivin on to get oil.

bubbabud

The point I was making is if its leaking that bad then 1 and 1/2 quarts low gives it a good head start to running out again. AS to your oiginal ? to change the rear main seal trans has to come out and fly wheel [spanner plate] must come off. you would probably be ahead to just pull the engine and reseal the bottem end using a one pc. rubber gasket on the pan and while its apart check the bearings also I believe the trans is electronicly controled however they do make rebuild kits with better clutch packs and the valve body can be modified for firmer shifts

superduty

I put a 1 piece gasket in, with the pan bolts being loose I'm not sure it is the rear main. And the tranny hesitates in forward gear cold. reverse is fine and once it goes into 1st its fine ever one jokes i have a 5 minute stall. I plan to rebuild it sooner than later. And while it's put imma do the rear main but if I can put it off I'm going to. Also it's supposed to get an oil change tomorrow so why put $22 worth of oil that's going to get drained out the next day.

Dont take my responses like I'm being pissy. I'm really not I completely understand where your coming from. I wouldn't drive around knowing it leaks 3.5 qts in 7 days and only add 2 and try to make it another 7. It was at the full mark 8 days ago. I typically loose 1/2 qt between oil changes. I think that the rear Main and the pan bolts I never re torqued them so I think that's why it lost so much. Especially after seeing that they were loose. I don't think I caused any damage considering I never broke 1500 rpm and never passed 30mph on a 1mile stretch from my house to the gas station.


How do I tell the difference between a aod/aode/a4od

Sorry for the long post I appreciate the help
C.R.