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As cheap as they are, I'd go back with an OEM or close to it. When you start upgrading the shocks for minimal offroad, it gets a little expensive. Unless you're going to a Baja race, stockers (replacements) will do just fine. I believe the 2WD and 4WD are different full stroke lengths. I could be wrong though so don't quote me on it. Lol.
Yeah I'm not looking for anything fancy. Probably just monroe magnums or kyb gas-a-justs. I need 6 so it makes it that much more expensive to go with fancy stuff.
Rear brakes and differential fluid done. Once I got the drums turned and the brakes adjusted properly, it eliminated the pulsing feeling. Victory! Today it's vacuum lines. Hopefully that gets rid of the CEL.
I'm looking for advice on shocks. It rarely leaves the pavement and when it does it's for fairly well-maintained gravel roads. I'd like to leave open the possibility of leveling the front end with some moog cc824 or cc844 springs in the future, but that will come if and when I replace the steering and replace the alignment bushings so I only have to align it one time. So for now, just shocks. I'm pretty sure the shocks on there are the originals unless they were replaced at some point with a new set of motorcraft's.
Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I replaced my shocks with the basic Gabriel stock replacements you can get at auto zone. Have had no issues at all with them. Came in black and were I think $65 for both. Its been at least 5 years since I did that and they are still good to go.
Finally got around to replacing the plastic vacuum lines today. In honor of the many threads on this subject, I salute thee.
But I discovered that the line running from the manifold tree to both the MAP sensor and the A/C system is thicker than the other 5/32"/4mm stuff. The barbs on the tree are obviously thicker too. I have some 1/4" ID plastic tubing seems maybe a little too big so I'm thinking 7/32"....anyone care to help a brotha out before I head to the shop?
EDIT - Definitely 7/32" tubing for the MAP sensor and A/C system vacuum tubing
Maybe it is just a placebo effect, but the old girl feels like she accelerates better than ever with those vacuum lines replaced. When I took her for a test drive this morning and really got on her, I chirped the tires shifting into second. That has never happened before. Throttle response feels much crisper. At least I would like to think so.
But it did not get rid of the CEL or my code 172, so I bit the bullet and bought a new O2 sensor. Amazon had them on sale for $18 and I'm pretty sure it has never been replaced in 194K miles.
Restoring to "daily driver" status....lots of minor issues
You'd be surprised what a minor vacuum leak will do to performance. Lol. Glad she's running better. O2 sensors do go bad. They're a cheap enough maintenance item to replace. Check the wiring going to it first to make sure the wires aren't burnt up.
Well it doesn't look burnt up but it is certainly dirty. This truck had an oil pan gasket leak repaired awhile back and it looks like the wiring harness for the O2 sensor got coated when it was leaking. Gonna have to get some electrical cleaner. O2 sensor gets here tomorrow so fingers are crossed.
Finally got around to replacing the plastic vacuum lines today. In honor of the many threads on this subject, I salute thee.
But I discovered that the line running from the manifold tree to both the MAP sensor and the A/C system is thicker than the other 5/32"/4mm stuff. The barbs on the tree are obviously thicker too. I have some 1/4" ID plastic tubing seems maybe a little too big so I'm thinking 7/32"....anyone care to help a brotha out before I head to the shop?
EDIT - Definitely 7/32" tubing for the MAP sensor and A/C system vacuum tubing
Man I want to do my vacuum lines but that picture scares me. Do you replace that with a bunch of individual vacuum lines? Does anybody sell a kit?
The two hoses behind the intake near the firewall are kind of a bitch to get at but its do-able. There should also be a vacuum diagram on your hood. I needed the 7/32" tubing to connect the manifold tree to the A/C system and to the MAP sensor. All the rest was 5/32." This may vary from year to year, as nowhere did he say I needed thicker stuff in the guide.
CEL came back on again yesterday. Pulled the battery overnight and then ran it again today until it came on then pulled the codes. Still getting 172 and only 172. I kind of figured it was too good to be true.
Vacuum lines and O2 sensor have been replaced. Code 172 says the O2 sensor is reading lean. Should I be looking at a fuel pressure/delivery issue?
08-06-2015, 09:06 PM
