Removing a Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Air Control Valve
05-17-2009, 10:48 AM
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Removing a Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Air Control Valve
Can anyone explain to me what I have to do to remove a Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Air Control Valve... Thanks!
05-17-2009, 07:29 PM
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just did the tps today on my 1986
I just replaced the tps today on my 86 f150 today. Not sure on the idle air control valve...but the tps was under my throttle body. It had 2 small phillip screws that held it in. Unfortunately I couldn;t get to them easily so I had to remove the throttle body. 4 bolts in each corner. You will also want to remove the thottle linkages on top of the throttle body. They should just pop off.
I was able to twist the throttle body around enough and not have to remove the coolant hoses that go to the top and bottom of the throttle body which was a good thing! Removed the 2 screws and put the new tps on- keep the screws a bit loose though because you might need to move it a little. make sure you install the new one just like the old one. Before putting it all back together you need to adjust the tps voltage.
Get a multimeter and back probe the sensor. Now I couldn;t get my probes deep enough so I just removed a bit of the green wire and the black wire about 2 inches behind where the harnesses click together. Clipped my red probe on the multimeter to the green wire and the black probe of the multimeter to the black wire. Turn the mutimeter to DC.
Put the key in the ignition and move it to the run position...not start...right before it turns over is where you want it to be at. With a new tps the voltage should be pretty close to 1V...it needs to be 1V, mine was about 1.12V so I CAREFULLY moved the sensor (this is why you don;t tighten the 2 screws all the way) and it settled to 1V. I then tightened the screws and rechecked and it still was 1V. The next thing is to move the throttle to wide open gradually, and make sure that the voltage climbs to about 5V. Mine went to 4.8V on the new sensor. As long as it does this your good to go! Bolt everything back up.
I wish I had instructions for the idle air control valve...maybe someone else can chime in on that one.
I was able to twist the throttle body around enough and not have to remove the coolant hoses that go to the top and bottom of the throttle body which was a good thing! Removed the 2 screws and put the new tps on- keep the screws a bit loose though because you might need to move it a little. make sure you install the new one just like the old one. Before putting it all back together you need to adjust the tps voltage.
Get a multimeter and back probe the sensor. Now I couldn;t get my probes deep enough so I just removed a bit of the green wire and the black wire about 2 inches behind where the harnesses click together. Clipped my red probe on the multimeter to the green wire and the black probe of the multimeter to the black wire. Turn the mutimeter to DC.
Put the key in the ignition and move it to the run position...not start...right before it turns over is where you want it to be at. With a new tps the voltage should be pretty close to 1V...it needs to be 1V, mine was about 1.12V so I CAREFULLY moved the sensor (this is why you don;t tighten the 2 screws all the way) and it settled to 1V. I then tightened the screws and rechecked and it still was 1V. The next thing is to move the throttle to wide open gradually, and make sure that the voltage climbs to about 5V. Mine went to 4.8V on the new sensor. As long as it does this your good to go! Bolt everything back up.
I wish I had instructions for the idle air control valve...maybe someone else can chime in on that one.
05-17-2009, 08:06 PM
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The Idle Air Control Valve will be located on the throttle body somewhere close to the throttle linkage depending on the year and engine (you failed to give the details on your truck).
It is very easy. On my truck, 93, 2wd, 5sp, 4.9L, I only had to disconnect the electrical connector, remove 2 bolts, install new gasket and IAC then reconnect the electrical connector.
You can check the electric part of the valve by ohming it out with a meter. It should read between 7 and 13 ohms. You can also try cleaning the inside of the valve with carb cleaner. You will need to take the eletric part (metal cylider with the elec. conn.) off of the valve (two phillips-head machine screws) so the cleaner doesn't get in it. Be sure to put the o-ring back on before you reassemble the two.
Remember to clear the codes if you replace the IAC with a new one.
Hope this helps
It is very easy. On my truck, 93, 2wd, 5sp, 4.9L, I only had to disconnect the electrical connector, remove 2 bolts, install new gasket and IAC then reconnect the electrical connector.
You can check the electric part of the valve by ohming it out with a meter. It should read between 7 and 13 ohms. You can also try cleaning the inside of the valve with carb cleaner. You will need to take the eletric part (metal cylider with the elec. conn.) off of the valve (two phillips-head machine screws) so the cleaner doesn't get in it. Be sure to put the o-ring back on before you reassemble the two.
Remember to clear the codes if you replace the IAC with a new one.
Hope this helps
