Question about motor swap
#1
Question about motor swap
Hey all, I have an 88 with the 4.9 300/C6 combo. I ended up getting a new motor because the old one was abused. Trying to get the swap finished, I just need to get the tranny and motor mounted together and then just tie up loose ends.
The only problem I'm having with finishing is I have about 2-3 inches between the motor and trans. The trans mount studs are sitting in the middle of their respective holes in the crossmember. Ive had the help of a mechanic friend and he hasn't had time lately to come by. He said all I should need to do is drop the driveshaft and the transmission should move enough to mate up to the block.
I can't quite figure out why else it wouldn't move enough to mount up. The torque converter stayed in the transmission the whole time so I don't think that would cause my issue, but I'm not gonna ignore any input at this point. Thanks!
The only problem I'm having with finishing is I have about 2-3 inches between the motor and trans. The trans mount studs are sitting in the middle of their respective holes in the crossmember. Ive had the help of a mechanic friend and he hasn't had time lately to come by. He said all I should need to do is drop the driveshaft and the transmission should move enough to mate up to the block.
I can't quite figure out why else it wouldn't move enough to mount up. The torque converter stayed in the transmission the whole time so I don't think that would cause my issue, but I'm not gonna ignore any input at this point. Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
The torque convertor has to fit all the way back into the trans to engage the pump. It's a lift turn and push kind of thing to get it seated properly. If the torque convertor is tight to the flex plate but the engine and trans aren't mated yet then the torque convertor is not all the way in. You shouldn't be able to fit your finger behind it (not even close) when it's properly seated.
If this is the case, you'll have to slide the trans back enough for the bolts to clear the flex plate, get it seated properly and then slide it ahead.
If this is the case, you'll have to slide the trans back enough for the bolts to clear the flex plate, get it seated properly and then slide it ahead.
#3
Thanks for the reply Chris. The issue I'm having isn't what you described, the converter isn't close to the flex plate. The transmission as a whole isn't close enough to the block. I'll check on the converter, but I don't quite think that's the issue
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
O.K., that part not being a problem, the trans mounting holes in the crossmember should be slotted - is there enough space in the slot to slide it ahead far enough ? The only thing holding the trans to the truck at this point will be that rear mount, but the mount could be stuck to the crossmember ?
The only other thing I can think of assuming you went from 300 motor to 300 motor, are the motor mounts different ? Did you use the mounts from the old motor or bring the mounts from the new one with it ? Or buy new ones ? Were both motors from the same vehicle.
Just thinking the mounts could have positioned the motor further ahead possibly.
The only other thing I can think of assuming you went from 300 motor to 300 motor, are the motor mounts different ? Did you use the mounts from the old motor or bring the mounts from the new one with it ? Or buy new ones ? Were both motors from the same vehicle.
Just thinking the mounts could have positioned the motor further ahead possibly.
#5
O.K., that part not being a problem, the trans mounting holes in the crossmember should be slotted - is there enough space in the slot to slide it ahead far enough ? The only thing holding the trans to the truck at this point will be that rear mount, but the mount could be stuck to the crossmember ?
The only other thing I can think of assuming you went from 300 motor to 300 motor, are the motor mounts different ? Did you use the mounts from the old motor or bring the mounts from the new one with it ? Or buy new ones ? Were both motors from the same vehicle.
Just thinking the mounts could have positioned the motor further ahead possibly.
The only other thing I can think of assuming you went from 300 motor to 300 motor, are the motor mounts different ? Did you use the mounts from the old motor or bring the mounts from the new one with it ? Or buy new ones ? Were both motors from the same vehicle.
Just thinking the mounts could have positioned the motor further ahead possibly.
As for the motor mounts, they're the ones off the old motor. New motor came from same vehicle, F150.
All that being said, I feel like since there is room to slide the trans with the holes being slotted, then taking the rive shaft out should help some. I just wasn't 100% sure if there was anything I should look into. Thanks again!
#6
Just wanted to post an update and ask another question. I had the truck towed to where I work and had one of the techs finish it for me. Turns out the motor came from a manual and still had a bearing that needed pulled for everything to fit together. Everything runs well, I'm happy.
Well, except for one thing. When you start the truck, there's a god awful screeching sound. The starter doesn't seem to be aligned properly. Doing research, there should be a block plate between motor and trans. Mine didn't have one when it was taken apart. Also, would like to note that I didn't have the screeching noise before either. Aside from trying to find a plate and installing it, are there any other short term solutions to this? Thanks
Well, except for one thing. When you start the truck, there's a god awful screeching sound. The starter doesn't seem to be aligned properly. Doing research, there should be a block plate between motor and trans. Mine didn't have one when it was taken apart. Also, would like to note that I didn't have the screeching noise before either. Aside from trying to find a plate and installing it, are there any other short term solutions to this? Thanks
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
No. Unfortunately. It's called a separator plate. Also called a starter dowel plate.
It's pretty crucial to lining up the starter and properly spacing the motor and trans.
It also blocks off the bottom part of your transmission bellhousing. Is there nothing blocking that off now ?
It's pretty crucial to lining up the starter and properly spacing the motor and trans.
It also blocks off the bottom part of your transmission bellhousing. Is there nothing blocking that off now ?
Last edited by Chris_1; 03-19-2016 at 06:54 PM.
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#9
Senior Member
#10
Senior Member
The starters for manual and auto have an ever so slight difference. To the eye, they'll look the same. If i remember correctly the tooth count on the flywheels differ by one or two teeth.