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Old 06-23-2014, 08:57 AM
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1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
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My pass. window has made a screeching sound when going up/down since I bought the truck and the drivers side was quiet but when it got almost all of the way down it would hang up and move the track/wing window in order to fully complete it's down motion. Yesterday I started getting a motor whine, probably from not fixing the track/regulator quick enough, and was wondering if there is something I can do to correct the problem without having to replace either one.

I am planning on greasing the regulator and track on both and wondered if there is a proper way to lube the motor gears (if possible). Also the pass side is more of a metallic scraping noise (assuming the reg. arm is rubbing the door), is this a common issue with a known solution? Assuming I can remove the arm and straighten it if it's bent, check the track for obstructions. Just wanted a little info before I tear into it later today.
Old 06-23-2014, 06:07 PM
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Use white lithium grease on everything that moves. Sounds like your vent window on the drivers door might have a loose/ missing bolt. And the rubber tracks they slide up and down in can get crap in them or tighten up if they get rust buildup behind them.
The rubber tracks just pull out.
To take your window out, you just pull your vent window first. 1 or 2 bolts at the top and another one behind the door panel. Once it's out, you can pull the rest easy and clean everything up. I read in a GM manual that they recommend silicone (like wd40) on the rubber.
Old 06-24-2014, 08:41 PM
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1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
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Still haven't gotten around to fixing yet but did notice that the driver's window goes down without hanging up/moving the wing. Stopped at ATM and though it is whining it now moves seamlessly. Weird.
Old 07-27-2014, 11:27 AM
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1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
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Motor was weak, replaced it and no more noise, figured out that the "hang up" was the motor/regulator pushing the door panel out as it got to it's lowest point. Nothing in the way and lubed up it still does it.

Just a tip for anyone changing the motor:

1/2" drill bit
8mm socket
8mm wrench
are all you need

Save some time and remove the door speaker before you start, it really helps being able to get your arm in there.

I drilled the two covered bolts at the divots to get the socket in there, just used a wrench on the partially exposed bolt as I couldn't get the bit to bite on the slanted panel.

Since the motor was just weak I took apart the gear casings and saved the triangular insert that goes between the metal gear and the white gear driven by the worm screw. There are two reasons these motors quit working, motor gets too weak and that triangle falls apart. This way if the passenger triangle goes bad I have a free replacement.



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