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Old 12-06-2011, 10:58 AM   #1
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Default Oil Pan Removal - Raise/Support The Engine

I finally have free time and got around to taking everything back down and scraping/vacuuming out all of the heavy sludge in my engine that was a result of the previous owner more than likely never changing the oil. I put everything back together and drove it for a good while so that the small leftover bits and pieces of sludge would find its way into the oil pan, so at this point, I need to remove the pan to clean it and replace the pickup.

My question here is what's the best way to raise and support the engine while removing the pan?

My thought is to use a floor jack and a block of wood to lift it by the harmonic balancer.

Once the engine is raised, what's the best way to support it? A jackstand under the harmonic balancer if I can get it to fit? I want to exercise caution not to bend the crankshaft pulley. Maybe some blocks of wood under the motor mount?
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1990 F150 XLT Lariat
302/5.0L - E4OD | 3.55 Gears - Non-Limited Slip | Stock GT40 Heads | .030 Over (Speed Pro H120CP30 Pistons) | T-Moss Ported Lower Truck Intake | Comp Cams XE258HR-14 (35-512-8) | Hedman Shorty Headers | Will install my Trick Flow 58cc heads when I quit being a lazy bum.

Last edited by qdeezie; 12-06-2011 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:02 AM   #2
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i used a bottle jack and a floor jack with a block of wood under the harmonic balancer it will help if you undo the engine mounts the transmission will keep it on the jack just DO NOT remove the trans mount as well or bad things will happen.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:28 AM   #3
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I hope the answer is no to this question.............

Did you have to remove the upper intake? Please say no.

What I saw that needed to be removed/unbolted is this:

-Motor Mounts
-Exhaust Pipe to Manifolds
-Transmission Fluid Line Bracket (Bolts to where ground cables bolt to block)
-Obviously the pan bolts and obviously disconnect the battery.

Am I missing anything? I truly don't want to unbolt anything from the top of the engine unless it's an absolute must.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:49 AM   #4
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for the 4.9l no it should be the same with the 5.0 just keep jacking it up until it hits the firewall you might want to unbolt the exhaust so you don't kink it if you think that would be a problem.
but the more room to jack it up the less pain in the *** it is to swap out
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:29 PM   #5
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When I removed mine I just wedged some blocks of wood at the motor mounts. And I believe I had to tilt the pan to the side and unbolt the oil pump because the oil pick up tube was blocking the pan from sliding out.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:48 PM   #6
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I had to remove the oil pan on my 91 5.8 E40D 2WD. Factory manual says to remove the upper intake (I already had off) so I'm not certain if you MUST remove it or not..... The 302 has a shorter deck height so you might get away with it....

CAUTION: disconnect Battery and transmission shift linkage before Jacking up the engine.... and chock the wheels.

I disconnected exhaust "Y" pipe from the manifolds, and loosened the rear trans mount, removed both mount bolts, and removed starter for additional room. I jacked up the engine with a floor jack and wood block under the oil pan until it was hard up against the floorpan / firewall. I then just wedged wood between the mounts frame

I was able to unbolt the oil pan and lower down, I could not get it out so I worked from the side and unbolted the oil pump pick-up and oil pump, dropped the into the pan and then the pan came completely off.... It was a PITA!

Todd Stranczek
Benton, AR
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddsSS View Post
I had to remove the oil pan on my 91 5.8 E40D 2WD. Factory manual says to remove the upper intake (I already had off) so I'm not certain if you MUST remove it or not..... The 302 has a shorter deck height so you might get away with it....

CAUTION: disconnect Battery and transmission shift linkage before Jacking up the engine.... and chock the wheels.

I disconnected exhaust "Y" pipe from the manifolds, and loosened the rear trans mount, removed both mount bolts, and removed starter for additional room. I jacked up the engine with a floor jack and wood block under the oil pan until it was hard up against the floorpan / firewall. I then just wedged wood between the mounts frame

I was able to unbolt the oil pan and lower down, I could not get it out so I worked from the side and unbolted the oil pump pick-up and oil pump, dropped the into the pan and then the pan came completely off.... It was a PITA!

Todd Stranczek
Benton, AR
Wow, this is what I ended up having to do. I just dropped it last night and cleaning everything out.

Question: To put the oil pan back on, was it possible to bolt the oil pump and pickup in before installing the pan? I'm thinking I may be able to slide the pump under the oil pump and pickup to install, but as you mentioned, the oil pump and pickup undoubtedly have to come off to remove it.
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:18 PM   #8
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Default Reinstallation of pan

I tried a trial fit without the gasket with the pump and pick-up on and was not able to; so I ended up using the 1 piece Felpro gasket and applying a thin coat of gasket adhesive and essentially glueing it to the block, then I placed the pump and PU in the pan - fished everything in place and worked around the sides to torque the pump and PU in place (Don't forget the distributor drive) ... Then installed and torqued the pan on.... - again a PITA!

Todd Stranczek
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddsSS View Post
I tried a trial fit without the gasket with the pump and pick-up on and was not able to; so I ended up using the 1 piece Felpro gasket and applying a thin coat of gasket adhesive and essentially glueing it to the block, then I placed the pump and PU in the pan - fished everything in place and worked around the sides to torque the pump and PU in place (Don't forget the distributor drive) ... Then installed and torqued the pan on.... - again a PITA!

Todd Stranczek
Benton, AR

Yes, it is a sho nuff PITA. If I ever have to pull the pan again, I'm just going to pull the engine. I seriously think it's easier.

At any rate, good info to know and I guess I just need to exercise some patience and get it in there. The good thing is I won't have to worry about oil pressure or startup rattles anymore.
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1990 F150 XLT Lariat
302/5.0L - E4OD | 3.55 Gears - Non-Limited Slip | Stock GT40 Heads | .030 Over (Speed Pro H120CP30 Pistons) | T-Moss Ported Lower Truck Intake | Comp Cams XE258HR-14 (35-512-8) | Hedman Shorty Headers | Will install my Trick Flow 58cc heads when I quit being a lazy bum.
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Old 12-08-2011, 04:14 PM
 
 
 
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