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o2 sensor stuck and busted

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Old 11-17-2007, 08:24 PM   #1
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Lightbulb o2 sensor stuck and busted

well i went to replace my o2 sensor on my 94xl 4wd with the 4.9 auto trany. and 227,000 miles and i stupidly figured i could either a combination wrench or my vice grips to put it in as I stared at the $12 o2 sensor removal socket that i would rarely ever use again. well need less to say my dumbass couldnt get it off my way and the bolt is mostly rounded off and the sensor is busted off (by a hammer) so that i could try to fit a regular socket on it at one point, and all my vice grips keep doing no matter how tight i squeeze and how many veins pop out of my head all they do is grind more of it away. has anyone ever been as dumb as me or had one that was just stuck and knows of any tricks on how to get it out. i had tried using penetrating fluid and banging on the wrech and the vice grips yet nothing would help. I thought about trying to weld a nut to the rest of it and using a breaker bar but just wondered if anyone had and other suggestions. ARRRRGGGH
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:02 PM   #2
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They sell sockets for this type of problem. Gator-grip is one of them. They cost about $12 each. They are made for rounded-off nuts and bolts. I have not had occasion to use one yet, but they seem to be a good idea. You should be able to get one at the local auto parts store. Or you could try Sears tool department. They may have them too.

website for gator-grip sockets:

ttp://gator-grip.com
(don't forget to add the "h" at the beginning)

Sears tool "bolt-out" for removing rounded off nuts and bolts:

ttp://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952062000P?keyword=bolt+out


Last edited by dewman; 11-17-2007 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 11-17-2007, 10:16 PM   #3
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these suckers are a challenge - the electrical quality anti-seize just doesn't seem to work well if the sensor has been in place for a while.

Can't offer much here - it sounds like a grunt-n-groan mission with the additional challenge of trying to get the new sensor in without screwing it up.

Been there, compassion present, good luck!
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Old 11-17-2007, 11:02 PM   #4
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yeah, that tube part that is filled with ceramic is about half an inch long after the nut all the ceramic is broken out and wires removed. Im thinkin im gonna have to hack saw or grind the rest of the tube off and weld a nut to the o2 sensor nut and use a breaker bar, Thanks for the compassion, lol. Im gonna need it for everything else wrong with it too, lol.
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Old 11-17-2007, 11:59 PM   #5
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Sometimes if you can heat up the pipe around where the O2 sensor is, it should be enough to expand the exhaust pipe and let you wrench off the sensor.
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Old 11-18-2007, 12:27 AM   #6
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drill/grind it off and weld on a new bung.
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Old 11-18-2007, 01:07 AM   #7
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wouldnt i need to get a o2 sensor with a longer tip then? the two exhaust pipes run side by side and there is a cylinder port welded in between the two so if i welded on a new bung the sensor tip would have to be longer right also i'd have to take the pipes and cat off to shake the shavings and stuff out so it didnt clog the cat, why i like fords so much i'll never know, they are better than gm is one reason, lol
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Old 11-18-2007, 03:02 AM   #8
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so its the o2 sensor before the cat?

if not, dont wory about the shavings, and when I say weld on a new bung, that means you should grind the old one back down level with the pipe, and weld a new one on so that it looks stock (or close as you can, lol)

can you get us a pic?
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Old 11-20-2007, 02:40 AM   #9
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My 95 F150 will be the first vehical I have owned with and O2 sensor. I have been looking at the tools to service it. There are several different designs. which one would you suggest. I know I would not need this tool very often but I enjoy working on something with the proper tools so I will add one to the tool chest.
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:27 PM   #10
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its not a bung on the pipe though, it is a tube welded in between the two exhaust pipes right before the catalytic converter (300 I6 setup) So im not sure how im gonna do that, tried to drill it out and it demolished two drill bits one of which was a expensive stepper bit.
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