4R70W Removal/Installation - Advice/Tips/Tricks?
#1
4R70W Removal/Installation - Advice/Tips/Tricks?
Hi all, I'd like to start fixing up my old F150, hoping I could get some advice. I have a 94 with the 5.0/4R70W 2WD, ~108,000 miles. The transmission is starting to slip bad on the interstate and even around town some, seems to occur more on longer drives (when it warms up?).
So, I've decided to replace it with one from a junkyard with a 90 day warranty. I picked up a 4R70W out of a 95 F150 with the exact same setup, and am hoping to swap it out this weekend. The junkyard said the transmission was inspected by AAMCO, so I'm hoping all is well.
My questions is, would you have any advice, tips or tricks for the install?
I also need to replace the engine rear main seal, it seems to be leaking just a bit. I'm open to replacing anything else that is recommended, maybe the transmission seals or u-joints?
I've done a bunch of searching on the web and noted the following instructions for yanking it out:
1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove Transmission Dipstick
3. Remove Inspection Plate, 2 Rubber Plugs (Bellhousing & opposite side of starter)
4. Remove Torque Converter bolts (4) w/15mm socket (turning clockwise)
5. Remove Starter
6. Drain Fluid from Pan
7. Drop any necessary exhaust (first unplug o2 sensors)
8. Remove Driveshaft
9. Support Transmission, Remove Crossmember
10. Disconnect all Electricals and Shift Linkage
11. Lower Tail End of Transmission – Remove 7 13mm head bolts
12. Remove Transmission
For these instructions, I wasn't 100% sure if it was for the 4R70W.
I've also read how to check the torque converter with a straight-edge, it seems this was already installed but good to check.
To note, I'm going to have a friend helping and have a motorcycle jack to hopefully support the transmission.
Sorry for such a long post .
Any other advice/recommendations would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
So, I've decided to replace it with one from a junkyard with a 90 day warranty. I picked up a 4R70W out of a 95 F150 with the exact same setup, and am hoping to swap it out this weekend. The junkyard said the transmission was inspected by AAMCO, so I'm hoping all is well.
My questions is, would you have any advice, tips or tricks for the install?
I also need to replace the engine rear main seal, it seems to be leaking just a bit. I'm open to replacing anything else that is recommended, maybe the transmission seals or u-joints?
I've done a bunch of searching on the web and noted the following instructions for yanking it out:
1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove Transmission Dipstick
3. Remove Inspection Plate, 2 Rubber Plugs (Bellhousing & opposite side of starter)
4. Remove Torque Converter bolts (4) w/15mm socket (turning clockwise)
5. Remove Starter
6. Drain Fluid from Pan
7. Drop any necessary exhaust (first unplug o2 sensors)
8. Remove Driveshaft
9. Support Transmission, Remove Crossmember
10. Disconnect all Electricals and Shift Linkage
11. Lower Tail End of Transmission – Remove 7 13mm head bolts
12. Remove Transmission
For these instructions, I wasn't 100% sure if it was for the 4R70W.
I've also read how to check the torque converter with a straight-edge, it seems this was already installed but good to check.
To note, I'm going to have a friend helping and have a motorcycle jack to hopefully support the transmission.
Sorry for such a long post .
Any other advice/recommendations would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
#2
you pretty much got it covered, and the motorcycle jack helps A LOT! we got a motorcycle jack here, and i could take the trans out of my full size bronco and have it next to the truck in under 30 minutes, doing it the way you have up there. if you break any electrical plugs, cut the plug off(leave enough wire to know which goes where) and head to ford. the plugs break easy, but they arent too expensive or hard to wire up, when you buy the plug it comes with the wires ready to splice, connectors, and shrink tube. good luck, dont be disappointed if it takes a few hours to drop the trans, i dropped my 3-4 times before i got to the <30min mark. had a few...issues haha but that was with my trans...its not hard, just takes some time
#3
Thanks 94Bronc, that's awesome to know. I was hoping the motorcycle jack would work out well, so that's VERY encouraging as well .
Anything else I might want to replace while I got the tranny out?
Anything else I might want to replace while I got the tranny out?
#4
I wanna go fast
I always use a block of wood and a jack under the oil pan to support the motor. I just did a AOD in a grand marquis last week.
-If you have a air compressor use it to blow out your cooler lines
-Drain your Torque Converter and refill it with new fluid before installing it
-use plastic cups and a marker to seperate and label your nuts and bolts
-and my number one tip is take your time and have plenty of beer on hand (and a sober friend as a parts runner just in case you need something).
-If you have a air compressor use it to blow out your cooler lines
-Drain your Torque Converter and refill it with new fluid before installing it
-use plastic cups and a marker to seperate and label your nuts and bolts
-and my number one tip is take your time and have plenty of beer on hand (and a sober friend as a parts runner just in case you need something).
#5
Thanks Thunder, I'll be honest, I didn't even realize there were cooler lines running to the transmission (haven't gotten under there very close yet). I know they exist, but sort of thought they were for the "HD Cooling/Towing Package".
I think I'll pickup a Haynes manual to be on the safe side, but how hard are the coolant lines to remove/install?
I think I'll pickup a Haynes manual to be on the safe side, but how hard are the coolant lines to remove/install?
#6
I wanna go fast
They arn't too bad at at all to remove. There are two on the passenger side, one going to the rad and a return. A line wrench is the best thing to use but I have always been able to use an open end box wrench without problems. Use a small strip of tape to label either the top or bottom line, this way if they get moved around when you go to put it together there is no thinking about it. (remember I drink when I work on cars and and using labels helps)
The manual is a good idea to have on hand no matter what the job is.
The manual is a good idea to have on hand no matter what the job is.
#7
Quick update on my 94', I was not able to remove the transmission last weekend as hoped. I thought I did enough research, but apparently this isn't a job to do in your driveway with the truck on jackstands.
I drained the fluid, pulled the driveshaft, pulled the inspection plate cover for the T/C bolts - but couldn't get them out. I'm fairly certain the exhaust needs to be dropped for these bolts and also for the coolant lines, but I definitely could be wrong. Anywho, I decided it was a little much for my abilities so I dropped off the truck/parts to a tranny shop yesterday. Supposed to be wrapped up by end of week, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I drained the fluid, pulled the driveshaft, pulled the inspection plate cover for the T/C bolts - but couldn't get them out. I'm fairly certain the exhaust needs to be dropped for these bolts and also for the coolant lines, but I definitely could be wrong. Anywho, I decided it was a little much for my abilities so I dropped off the truck/parts to a tranny shop yesterday. Supposed to be wrapped up by end of week, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
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#9
Heres what you need:
-4 big jack stands lifting truck off the ground
-2 Floor jacks
-3 strong guys
-24 beer
-Subway
-Music
-Good tools (lots of extensions)
-Lights
and alot of lifting if you take the transfer case and tranny as one!
Did it last night and it was a B!/$%?
one tip: ** Make sure there are only 2 dowels in block and 0 in transimssion.. Unless you want to fight with it for 2 hours and then realize 2 dowels in the same place doesnt work very good! **
-4 big jack stands lifting truck off the ground
-2 Floor jacks
-3 strong guys
-24 beer
-Subway
-Music
-Good tools (lots of extensions)
-Lights
and alot of lifting if you take the transfer case and tranny as one!
Did it last night and it was a B!/$%?
one tip: ** Make sure there are only 2 dowels in block and 0 in transimssion.. Unless you want to fight with it for 2 hours and then realize 2 dowels in the same place doesnt work very good! **
#10
NOTE: If You order a Transmission on the internet it is best to contact the company and ask for a in detail depth of their "Warranty". I just got mine the other day and after going through all the paperwork that came with the unit. in "Fine Print" I found that unless You replace Your Trans Oil Cooler and keep all docs that You did. that Your Warranty for the Trans will be Voided!
And this information was not on the web site when I was reading the warranty info that they have posted. So make sure You do Your research!!!
So Since I am a Vol. Firefighter and use My truck to respond to a lot of calls, I went with a Heavy Duty Cooler from Advanced Auto Parts for like $55.00
And this information was not on the web site when I was reading the warranty info that they have posted. So make sure You do Your research!!!
So Since I am a Vol. Firefighter and use My truck to respond to a lot of calls, I went with a Heavy Duty Cooler from Advanced Auto Parts for like $55.00