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In need of some serious help

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Old 12-19-2013, 06:58 PM
  #21  
We'd do it

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You're supposed to goose the throttle and step on the brake when prompted.
Old 12-19-2013, 08:30 PM
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And turn the wheel
Old 12-20-2013, 06:53 AM
  #23  
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Yep as Sean says you need to hit the overdrive button, ( that's your overdrive error) press the brakes ( your brake on/off error) and hit the gas ( your throttle change error ). So all this is telling us is that there is no major system fault that the ecu has detected. Is the truck an automatic? I'm starting to suspect and transmission problem. Could be the direct clutch is failing. Possibly working with the heavy load just pushed the old parts to the end. Try a drive around the neighborhood not far enough to get yourself stuck but make sure the truck is good and warmed up and see how the trans feels. Try a stall test, block the front wheels in 2 wheel drive and give throttle until the back wheels turn. Note the rpm. That is the speed at which the torque converter locks up. Make sure that is in specs. I'd have to look up the rpm but I think its 2000. Keep in mind this test stresses the truck so don't try it if its not safe, you aren't sure about the truck or your not sure about what your doing. And don't do it any longer than a few seconds.
Make sure no one and nothing important or dangerous is in front of the truck.
Old 12-20-2013, 09:35 PM
  #24  
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I am with Warlockk here as he seamed to catch the issue right off...

most of the post are people mentioning engine parts and the engine appears to function fine...

If you read the original post it says the OP was going 45-50 and the engine revved up in RPM so either 2 things happened...

1) it's a manual transmission the clutch slipped....

2) its an Automatic transmission, mainly the E40D and it dropped out of gear while cruising and dropped back into gear.

Common problem with the E40D when the fluid gets dirty and thin. The pump looses pressure and it drops out of gear.

At this point I'd do a Fluid and filter change (drain the converter as well) and also check the sensor on the gear selector on the side of the trans. If this gets saturated with fluid. road grime and what not it gives false readings to the ECM and then the solenoids in the trans forget to function properly...

usually this seems to happen when the truck gets hotter and the fluid gets thin. letting off the gas usually drops it right back in gear and off you go.... getting on the gas hard it sometimes will jump back and forth searching for a gear... not good.

make sense?
Old 12-22-2013, 12:30 AM
  #25  
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Well I have gone over this book again that came with the code reader seems in my rush to hopefully figure out what is wrong with my truck I missed quite a bit. Seems I only read the part describing how to actually run the meter. I had seen them done before but only to turn off dash lights so I never have seen any of the other stuff involved. It's no secret I have always been a bolt on kind of mechanic starters, power steering pumps, etc. etc. I have never gotten into transmissions or real mechanic work as far as the block heads and such goes. My claim to fame is replacing a rack and pinion one time on my own. I have a general idea how a transmission works but have always been to intimidated to ever try to mess with one. I am going to try the stall test and I bought the fluid and filter to change the fluid. As embarrassed as I am already I have to ask how do I drain the torque converter too? Also I live down dirt and clay roads back woods of Georgia so I want to give a try at cleaning the sensor that is located on the trans but is it something I just clean with a rag or a brush or should I use brake or parts cleaner on it? My family and I appreciate everyone's help.
Old 12-22-2013, 08:07 PM
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for the torque converter there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the bellhousing... pull that out... rotate the engine until the torque converter plug lines up with that hole... remove plug and drain... it holds quite a lot so be ready.

I'd use Contact Cleaner on the sensor... you find it at most auto parts stores and WalMart...
Old 12-24-2013, 09:58 AM
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Thank you Dr. Bowtie as soon as I'm over this flu or whatever it is I plan on this plan of attack. I'm guessing the amount of fluid they sold me with the transmission filter isn't enough for the transmission and the torque converter. also does the torque converter get refilled by the dip stick? I have a Chilton for this truck on order just no telling when it will get her. Thanks again for the advice.
Old 12-24-2013, 11:05 AM
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yes it does... you drain the converter and then pull the pan and remove the filter and let it drain... more will drain once the filter is pulled.

wipe the sealing surfaces clean and install the new filter and O-rings if applicable and then the pan... snug the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and do NOT over tighten or it will leak... I usually start all the bolts and then go inner side to side to outer corners as to tighten from the inside out and have yet to have one leak.

I would strongly suggest a quart or two of Lucas RED auto transmission supplement... it does help.

you will need more than 12 quarts of fluid. i add 5-6 quarts and then start the vehicle and start adding more fluid... when you get down to the last 2 recommended I shift the gears from park to reverse then to drive then back to park... only add to the Low mark and then drive it around the block and stop and check... trans fluid checks when engine is hot/normal operating temp... you dont want to over fill that trans as it will airiate the fluid and cause slippage....just a FYI
Old 12-25-2013, 01:07 PM
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Thank you again Dr. Bowtie for your help walking me through all of this. My next question I guess is once I do all of this and if it doesn't work what am I looking at then?? Merry Christmas Fellas and Happy Holidays your efforts aren't forgotten!!!
Originally Posted by dr_bowtie
yes it does... you drain the converter and then pull the pan and remove the filter and let it drain... more will drain once the filter is pulled.

wipe the sealing surfaces clean and install the new filter and O-rings if applicable and then the pan... snug the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and do NOT over tighten or it will leak... I usually start all the bolts and then go inner side to side to outer corners as to tighten from the inside out and have yet to have one leak.

I would strongly suggest a quart or two of Lucas RED auto transmission supplement... it does help.

you will need more than 12 quarts of fluid. i add 5-6 quarts and then start the vehicle and start adding more fluid... when you get down to the last 2 recommended I shift the gears from park to reverse then to drive then back to park... only add to the Low mark and then drive it around the block and stop and check... trans fluid checks when engine is hot/normal operating temp... you dont want to over fill that trans as it will airiate the fluid and cause slippage....just a FYI
Old 01-19-2014, 03:44 PM
  #30  
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Hey guys it's been a while I've been sick then bad weather rain and cold. I finally realized where I made my mistake with my code tester. Seems I read the instruction on how to operate it not how to actually perform a test. Anyway I was in a hurry and excited to hopefully fix my truck what can I say. I haven't run another test but I am now in middle of changing the trans fluid and filter including the torque converter and cleaning the sensor(s) it took me 45 minutes to clean the caked on mud and clay off of the work area just to get to the bolts then another 30 minutes to clean up so none of the rest still hanging on would fall in when I switch out the filter and such I really hate living on dirt roads. Anyway that's where I am with it so far I appreciate all of the advice I will let you know if this makes any difference at all.


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