Mattersman

so i have a 1990 4x4 5.8 e40d and i need to know how to do a maf conversion. i need to know what parts i need what i need to do and where to find them (eg, name part number and what car it would be in). i need to know what ecu i need what pins to repin in the 60 pin connector for both the injectors and maf sensor i know i would use a k&n cold air for the 2 to 1 for the maf and that i would need the separate injector plugs for the maf ecu. sorry for the long post

qdeezie

You might want to do some lurking on the Full Size Bronco site since you have a 4x4. I will tell you that you need to find either a 94 or 95 F150, F250 or Bronco that's 4x4. That would be a good starting point. I believe the WAY1 ECM would work for you since you have an E4OD, but don't quote me on that. Also, you'll need a 5.0 ECM.

adabiri2

K&N is the worst thing you can do for a daily driver, Imo. Its a racing filter. Its designed to clean after the race and make your engine breathe better of course.

That MAF sensor gets covered in the KN Oil's. Shortly after it attracts dirt 10x faster than normal. The MAF is a very tiny needle, thats sticks into the air path, that tiny needle/probe is heated by the ECM, then cooled off by air moving across it. More air, more it cools down. It won't read the airflow properly if its covered in oil(not designed for) or dirt.

Those cans of MAF cleaner do work good and KN users will need them 10x quicker, literally. MAF's don't go bad, maybe thats the good thing over a MAP sensor. Unless you drop them or damage them, a can of MAF cleaner will fix a MAF code just about 90% of the time.

------MAF is not any better by a large amount.-------- Imo.

BLDTruth

Most people do MAF conversions because they are looking to significantly upgrade their engines - cams, injectors, intake, exhaust, etc. - if you aren't going to do that then I agree, MAF is probably a waste of time and money for what you want

I disagree wholeheartedly about the K&N. I have used them in every car I have owned and never had engine problems or dirty MAF sensors. I had a Taurus that ran 200,000 miles on one with no engine problems whatsoever. So while I respect your opinion on the matter, My experience has been completely different. Just my $.02.

adabiri2

Right, some people just put too much oil on them. Some people neglect to clean them, flows more air and dirt. Gotta stay on top of it, as directed.

qdeezie

Here's the thing about K&N (from my perspective). I used them for more than 15 years without any engine failures and recently stopped using them and went back to paper filters.

What I found out is that K&N does not filter as good as paper filters, so for longevity purposes, it is not the best option because that is what I seek in my vehicles above all else.

Also, in doing a head to head comparison on two fuel injected vehicles I own, I found that they didn't pull as hard with the K&N as they did with the paper filters.

Although, I did observe a hit to the MPGs on one of my vehicles when I went back to paper filters.

On the other vehicle I observed a slight increase in MPGs when I went back to paper, so it varies from vehicle to vehicle.

The conclusion I've come to is that if you choose to run a K&N filter, get a tune to take full advantage of the additional airflow. Knowing that I will not be doing this, paper is my best option.

K&N is not bad by any means, it just depends on the application in which it's being used as to whether or not there's an advantage to using it.

However, if you are trying to drive your vehicle until you drop dead, paper is the way to go for the sake of longevity.

Just my .02 on the matter.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Back to the original question, you really would want to find a donor vehicle w/ maf, 302 ho and a matching transmission. You'll be changing out most of the stuff under the hood as far as engine management goes, so that would be the only cost effective way to go.