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Old 10-24-2014, 03:53 AM
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I had a bad coil act exactly the same way, it took a while to completely fail (a couple weeks) when it finally died it still had spark.
Old 10-24-2014, 06:42 PM
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Ok, tested fuel pressure, that was good. Checked spark again last night. Had spark but it was weak. Checked again this morning and nothing. Went and bought a coil, changed it. It fired right up with good spark. Tried to start it an our later, no spark. It has to be the pickup coil which would mean i would have to pull the distributor?
Old 10-24-2014, 06:51 PM
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And let me guess, I will probably need some sort of press or puller to get the thing apart to change the coil?
Old 10-24-2014, 07:30 PM
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The plate on top of the pip is pressed on, it can be a PITA to get off. You should be able to find a video on youtube on how to remove it without breaking/bending the plate.
Old 10-24-2014, 07:39 PM
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Do i haveto pull the distributor to get the plate off?
Old 10-24-2014, 11:53 PM
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Ok, I got the distributor off, couldnt pull the plate without bending or screwing up the teeth. Knocked the drift pins out of the cam gear and the piece above it and i am having a hell of a time trying to get the cam gear off. In theory i should be able to replace the pip when i get the cam gear off and the shaft out of the housing right?

Update- aftert two hours of trying everything i could think of to get the gd cam gear off, i managed to get the thing moved about enough to cover half the drift pin hole. Then it dawns on me, when i finally get this thing off along with its bigger brother how in the h*** am i going to get the d**** thing back on and aligned with the drift pin holes? So I quit. Its kind of a d****ed if you do and d****ed if you dont situation. Should I give up on the cam gear and try the plate while risking wrecking it or do i play hell trying to get the cam gear off and back on without wrecking anything?

Last edited by Khill3253; 10-25-2014 at 01:27 AM.
Old 10-25-2014, 09:29 AM
  #17  
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Gear puller or press is the right way to take it off. Putting it back on -lined up properly for the pin is even more of a PITA. I've done it, mainly because I had the same PIP in an I6 distributor that I didn't need (they both used the same one, in 95 anyway) but looking at doing it again I would definitely be looking at the price difference between a PIP and a whole distributor.
Old 10-25-2014, 10:33 AM
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I never tried removing the PIP, but changing the distributor is a breeze in comparison from what I read. And you have the benefit of having replacing an old part for something new that will last longer (provided that you get a good one to start with).

I've had the 411 code for a couple of years now. And now it's joined by a 420. I have not replaced all my vacuum lines yet, but replaced various solenoids and valves in the in the EGR and Secondary air systems. What I have scanned is that the secondary air has incorrect air flow. My truck is a '96 with a 4.9. There is a part just above and left of the thermostat housing that has vacuums and I think a sensor in it (have to figure out what's it called) that might be the problem. I'll let you know if that works when I replace it.
Old 10-25-2014, 05:16 PM
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I got it! A buddy and I beat the gear off with a brass hammer. It took like 10 mins today. got the new pip installed. Carefully tapped the gear back on with a piece of pipe. took like 5 mins. Installed tbe distributor. Everything seems to be working right. It has been started a dozen times and driven about four times. No problems yet. Thanks guys! Now on to the trouble code. We wil save that for a different day..



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