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No later ones are supposed to set themselves via the computer or somehow. But I don't think 92 was there yet. Some will use a drill bit to elongate the holes so they can tune it into that magic .9 closed throttle voltage.
My 95 apparently can set itself but I checked it anyway after I redid the top end of the motor.
Ultimately seems as it was the ECM. She was having more of the same (kinda) symptoms, running constantly rough. Swapped TPS again with no change, swapped MAP with no joy. Noticed that oil was 'overflowing' out of the pan, so I checked and found it about 3 quarts over the line (gas in the oil). Figured it might have been an injector stuck open, but testing and cleaning showed otherwise. Ordered an ECM, and pulled the old one while waiting on the replacement to show up. Visual inspection showed that the seal on the gasket/cover thing was gone, probably allowing water intrusion. Cracked it open and while I saw no bulging caps, there was quite a bit of corrosion on many of the solder joints. My assumption is that as the ECM was crapping out, it was incorrectly and intermittently controlling several things, to include mis-timing the injectors. Time will tell... I hope this was the end of it though. My big concern now (assuming the ECM swap fixed the issue) would be if the gas in the oil affected bearing lubrication. We shall see.
Without reading all the way back to the beginning I'm not sure if you checked the vacuum line on your regulator for evidence of fuel; that's the other way fuel gets in the oil if the diaphragm in the regulator starts leaking.
Removed mine tonight for many of the same symptoms. I had tested everything twice and could NOT find the issue. Pulled this and found what I believe is the issue. Caps leaked and caused corrosion at the joints. I looked up and they are $250 bucks for new ECM/PCM. Or, you can order the .47 cent part x 3 and DIY!
Without reading all the way back to the beginning I'm not sure if you checked the vacuum line on your regulator for evidence of fuel; that's the other way fuel gets in the oil if the diaphragm in the regulator starts leaking.
Installing a new regulator was my first step. No evidence of fuel issues on either the old or new.
Removed mine tonight for many of the same symptoms. I had tested everything twice and could NOT find the issue. Pulled this and found what I believe is the issue. Caps leaked and caused corrosion at the joints. I looked up and they are $250 bucks for new ECM/PCM. Or, you can order the .47 cent part x 3 and DIY!
Exactly what my caps looked like, and I should have tried to solder some new ones in. My big fear was that with the poor seal at the firewall, something else might have been impacted by water penetration. Got a reman from Rock Auto for around 70 bucks. Hopefully this one will last for a while, but if it craps the bed I'll go to component replacement!
Removed and replaced the caps - didn't make a difference. Now I am getting the Check Engine light, runs same, and now when I go to check codes - I get nothing. I am glad I don't have to drive this everyday, but I am getting frustrated!
12-03-2016, 06:55 PM
