94xlt4x4

Anyone use the Moog radius arm bushings?

I've had excellent luck and experiance with moog products on other vehicles and there stuff is well made and fits great. I'm not looking for urethane units due experiances with urethane suspension products.....well maybe if I was going to do some real serious off roading....but then the bushings wouldn't be my first concern.....LOL

I think the Moog part # is K80007. I was told by a chassis/alignment shop that these are well made, give the best of both worlds of the rubber OEM and the urethane units and are heat resistant.

Let me know if you have any experiance with these or know about them.

Oh, the killer part, someone beat me to the rivets in the brackets and they're already done with grade 8 bolts. That's like finding a $100 bill in the couch! LOL Thanks to who ever did that for me!!! LOL

flareside_thunder

MOOG makes good stuff...that's it...hands down.

94xlt4x4

Ya, that's been my experiance 100% of the time with their stuff too!

flareside_thunder

+1 on the rivets being replaced with bolts..I don't know which way is more difficult....grinding the rivets off or yanking the front end forward so the radius arms drop out of the brackets. Either way good luck replacin those and be safe doin it...I need to change mine too.

94xlt4x4

Thanks man! Ya, finding that already done was a thrill! I had to grind/drill/airchisel about 24 rivits on the 67 C10 for the ART trailing arm set up with the c-notches and cross members.....then all the rivits in the bed floor to bed sides to rebuild the bed. I was done doing old rivits!!!!!
A floor jack will be my friend when releasing the brackets after bolt removal......and doing one side at a time.
Hey, I'll shoot some pics of the process. Found an exploder(lol) forum that a guy had to replace the brackets due to cracks and he used the moog stuff, but was only up to one side so far and had no road miles yet.

dewman

No need to move the front end forward, all I did was use a floor jack to hold the radius arm in place, remove the nuts and bolts and slide the bracket off the back of the radius arm.
https://www.f150forum.com/showthread...ghlight=radius

rickster

I'm going the same repair on my '92. Unfortunately, I have 6 rivets to grind off. I went with the Moogs, too. Looks like decent stuff.

94xlt4x4

Just an update guys.....

Got the MOOG units and compared them the OE type from
MOOG. Both are well made, but the K80007 units are a cross between poly and rubber made out of TPV which is a variant of TPE (polyurethane) TPV gives the strength of plastic/polyurethane and the vibration resistance of rubber. Ain't technology great. LOL Top that off with there color.....blue! In my hands, the TPV units felt more like polys and not as soft as the rubber ones. I then compared them to the red polys. They seem to be a little more flexable than the polys.
Will let you know how they feel after I get them in.
Just a note....I'm note a materials engineer, but wanted to know about TPV so I researched it. Let me just say this, someone else can do the engineering. This is serious chemistry stuff. TPV compounds are fairly new and a in the TPE class of compounds. It is becoming the "stuff" of suspension technology for replacing bushings of all types. If it works well for the radius arms, I'll check into the swaybar bushings for the front and rear swaybars. If you have insomnia, google it and check it out, but get your pillow ready! LOL

rdg

Can someone clarify if this kit is for both sides? Based on the picture I've seen of it, I think it is.

Also what other rubber parts or bushings would people recommend replacing when replacing the radius arm bushings? I have recently had the ball joints replaced. I am planning to replace the shocks. I have a 2WD 1996 F150 with the 5.9 inline six.

GIJoe4500

Pivot bushings.