rod knock? spun bearing?
#1
KickAss Member
Thread Starter
rod knock? spun bearing?
alright, now first things first. i'm sorry to all you hardcore ford guys. i had a 93
f-150, but unfortunately totalled it. so to be fair i thought i'd try another brand. and the reason im on here, is because surprising enough this is the best site ive found that people give me good reliable information. so bear with me.
my truck is a 1998 GMC K1500. 5.7 vortec, automatic transmission, 4x4,
299,xxx km's, or for the Americans, 185,789 miles.
it's developed what sounds to be like a spun bearing, which i think may have been caused by the intake manifold leak(anybody that knows GM's, knows that generation has that problem, some leak internally) i think mine may have leaked coolant internally, which is not too uncommon apparently, and wrecked a rod bearing. now for my question, being the teenager i am, is it possible to pull the pan, replace all the bearings(rods, and mains), throw in a new oil pump and gaskets and drive it till I sell it? it is a strong running motor still, I just dont like that knock, its not too loud, just enough if im standing beside the motor to hear it. just another guy trying to keep his truck in the budget.
f-150, but unfortunately totalled it. so to be fair i thought i'd try another brand. and the reason im on here, is because surprising enough this is the best site ive found that people give me good reliable information. so bear with me.
my truck is a 1998 GMC K1500. 5.7 vortec, automatic transmission, 4x4,
299,xxx km's, or for the Americans, 185,789 miles.
it's developed what sounds to be like a spun bearing, which i think may have been caused by the intake manifold leak(anybody that knows GM's, knows that generation has that problem, some leak internally) i think mine may have leaked coolant internally, which is not too uncommon apparently, and wrecked a rod bearing. now for my question, being the teenager i am, is it possible to pull the pan, replace all the bearings(rods, and mains), throw in a new oil pump and gaskets and drive it till I sell it? it is a strong running motor still, I just dont like that knock, its not too loud, just enough if im standing beside the motor to hear it. just another guy trying to keep his truck in the budget.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Liberty, WV
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You are liable to make it even worse if you start moving stuff around it on the bottom end. I have a K1500 1998. The deathcool didn't mix with the metal alloy of the intake gasket that year, which does cause leaking internally over enough time. If your oil looks milky, or foamy, or tastes sweet(yeah I know its not healthy). You are probably right about the bearing. Most likely the journal is wrecked as well if that is the case, so putting in new bearings is just half the equation sorry to say. I would just leave it alone, thats not going to be a budget type repair. Bottom end stuff is usually engine out and a block overhaul unless you just get really lucky.
#5
Senior Member
It depends on how much damage there is. I'm surprised Sean I thought youd say add 50W oil and keep driving. Is it just because its a Chevy? Seriously, pull the engine, get a caliper and pull the engine specs. If its not cut too bad you can have it machined down pretty cheap. Or even buy a replacement crank. For a driver/beater you can get away with some slop. Just don't dump it on someone without telling them the issues.
#6
lost my Car again...
anything with engine damage you should scrap it or part it out don't sell it to some kid wanting a truck its just not right.
i bet you can just go out and get a junk yard 350 and throw it in depending on what trans is compatible. 350s are cheap even up in Maine hell a 454 from the yard runs about 900 bucks and that's a 4 bolt main
i bet you can just go out and get a junk yard 350 and throw it in depending on what trans is compatible. 350s are cheap even up in Maine hell a 454 from the yard runs about 900 bucks and that's a 4 bolt main
Trending Topics
#8
KickAss Member
Thread Starter
the oil is a fine color, i just did a oil change. nothing looked abnormal. i can see the coolant was leaking externally, i just wasnt sure about internally too. ive had it long enough for 3 oil changes so far, #1 - wix filter, mobil conventional oil, #2 - quaker state full synthetic, fram extra guard filter, #3 just barely did it, john deere filter and oil. all oil has been 5w30. would this change from conventional to synthetic to conventional make any difference?
i ordered intake gaskets, but im really debating putting them in, im thinking maybe keeping them and putting them on a different motor then droppin it in. what do you guys think?
once again, thanks for all you're help!
i ordered intake gaskets, but im really debating putting them in, im thinking maybe keeping them and putting them on a different motor then droppin it in. what do you guys think?
once again, thanks for all you're help!
#10
KickAss Member
Thread Starter
listened a bit closer with a section of garden hose, it's definitly louder up top, but doesnt sound like a "tick". i can hear valvetrain noise, but nothing significant. also, from what i could guess by moving the hose around, certain cylinder areas sound louder than others