Just bought my first Ford F150
10-22-2014, 02:13 PM
#21
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
I would grab a couple cheap oil filters (fram or house brand), change the one out that's on there, then run some seafoam through the brake booster line (watch youtube for instructional videos on how to do it). I would do 1/3 can through booster, 1/3 in oil, 1/3 in a half full gas tank. Also, when you pull the filter you will lose some oil, wait until you add the seafoam in the oil, then check the dipstick and top it off. When the gas tank is empty, should be about 100 miles, change the filter again (cheap), 1/2 can seafoam in oil 1/2 in full tank of gas. When that tank of gas is empty change the oil, filter, and spark plugs-this time using a quality filter such as WIX. There is a whole list of things to change on any vehicle when you first get it but depending on your budget, ability, and time you may hold off on doing them all at once and spread them out over a period of time.
Now one thing I wouldn't have done is put synthetic oil in it off the get go, just because I'm cheap and cleaning the sludge out of the engine means wasting oil, I would rather waste cheap oil than synthetic. Save the good stuff until you are ready to put it in and leave it for 5k miles.
Now one thing I wouldn't have done is put synthetic oil in it off the get go, just because I'm cheap and cleaning the sludge out of the engine means wasting oil, I would rather waste cheap oil than synthetic. Save the good stuff until you are ready to put it in and leave it for 5k miles.
10-22-2014, 02:38 PM
#22
Senior Member
As far as sludge removal is concerned, I'll be honest here to the OP. You'll never get all of it out using additives. I've been there.
Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam or Kreen will help some, but ultimately the engine will have to be 1) taken apart and cleaned (not really effective for the long term since the bearings have likely been toasted),
Or 2)rebuilt or replaced, (which are both the best long term solutions).
Not trying to give you that sinking feeling in your stomach, just being honest so you can plan your next steps.
You can buy a year or so maybe using additives or taking it apart and cleaning it out.
Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam or Kreen will help some, but ultimately the engine will have to be 1) taken apart and cleaned (not really effective for the long term since the bearings have likely been toasted),
Or 2)rebuilt or replaced, (which are both the best long term solutions).
Not trying to give you that sinking feeling in your stomach, just being honest so you can plan your next steps.
You can buy a year or so maybe using additives or taking it apart and cleaning it out.
Last edited by qdeezie; 10-22-2014 at 02:42 PM.
10-22-2014, 03:37 PM
#23
Thanks guys, minor update: Was driving last night and each time I pressed the accelerator the oil pressure gauge would drop way below L and then return to normal as the truck was coasting. Then shortly after that, the engine began clicking. Then it would stop and everything would be fine. Then it would start again. The only thing I have done so far is changed the oil which I checked and it is slightly more brown, but full. No oil burn-off, no smell.
Oil additives are only guaranteed to do one of three things: Make the problem worse, Improve the problem, or change nothing at all.
10-22-2014, 03:42 PM
#24
Senior Member
Yep. His symptoms are exactly what I experienced when I first bought my truck. I removed the intake, valve covers and timing cover and oil pan (did the oil pan last for obvious reasons) and cleaned out all of the crud. That bought about a year and a half worth of time before the engine completely went south.
10-22-2014, 03:42 PM
#25
I think everyone is correct. The clicking could be lifters and valves where due to the amount of sludge oil may not be reaching that high. Either way you likely have an issue with possibly a clogged pickup screen from sludge, failing oil pump, or clogged channels in the engine. Oil additives are only guaranteed to do one of three things: Make the problem worse, Improve the problem, or change nothing at all.
My idiot light doesn't like it when the engine is warm and driven for about 20 miles and dips to Low only when stopped at stop sign or traffic light while in forward gear, but no visual or audible symptoms or other CEL's indicating a pressure failure. I learned to ignore it.
10-22-2014, 03:45 PM
#26
Yep. His symptoms are exactly what I experienced when I first bought my truck. I removed the intake, valve covers and timing cover and oil pan (did the oil pan last for obvious reasons) and cleaned out all of the crud. That bought about a year and a half worth of time before the engine completely went south.
10-22-2014, 03:50 PM
#27
Senior Member
Only pulled driver's side valve cover on mine when it leaked/ smoked oil down on the manifold and it was nasty inside. No noises or operation issues but everything was caked in 25yo crud. Cleaned it with tooth brushes while the cover was off and I was satisfied. Sometime I'll pull the rest of what you mentioned as I'm sure the crud is there too.
10-22-2014, 03:59 PM
#28
I can't believe my 351 idles smooth now. Still sludged in areas I'm sure, but I used Seafoam and CRC Engine Flush to wash it out several times. She holds in Park/Neutral at 750 RPM and in forward or reverse gears 650 RPM perfectly without fluctuation. SBF engines are fairly bulletproof.
10-22-2014, 04:43 PM
#29
Sounds like you were right. I'm going to give everything a thorough clean. My fear is that the head gasket is leaking as the coolant seemed to disappear from the cold fill tank. Although, since I re-filled the cold fill tank with water, it hasn't dropped below the fill line.
Did I just buy a lemon truck for $2,300 from a used car salesman?
Did I just buy a lemon truck for $2,300 from a used car salesman?
Last edited by brentwrmiller; 10-22-2014 at 05:14 PM.
10-22-2014, 05:12 PM
#30
Based on what? I'm going to give all the lines a good cleaning, starting with the radiator. I can't find any leaks, but everything seems a touch dirty (anti-freeze in radiator). Doesn't seem milky (or oily) so I don't think I have a blown head-gasket, but I do want to clean it. Could these issues have arrived from using premium synthetic oil (Mobil One)?