reeb

1990 XLT Lariat won't start. Changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil. Still nothing. So I have the ignition module which seems the last thing to go and hope this does it but I heard there's a special tool to get in that tight spot to remove it. I'm not so cool as to remove the distributor like the manual says and deal with all that so I called a parts store about it and they have it but they asked what size star bit it needs. I have no idea. Can't see in there cause it's so deep. I've read of people changing it out but they never talk about the bit size. Any help? Thanks.

dirtcrew51m

It might not be a torx, it might be a reg socket, I think it is a 1\4" but it must be a "thin" wall deep socket. I actually found the size went to sears got a matching deep socket and machined it down to make the socket even thinner. Worked well.

reeb

Man, I hope I didn't spend some money I shouldn't have but this looks like it should work and it describes it's use as what I need, "Allows for easy removal of Ford ignition module without removal or tampering of the distributor". After tax it comes to just under $20. I saw it online this morning and went out to the parts store to get it but all they had was a little round tool that was much too fat to get in this tight spot. I'm posting this link:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kasfm720a.html

so others don't have such a hard time looking. Granted, that's if it works. Hope they ship it fast. I'll post how it works when I get it.
Thanks dirtcrew51m, but I hope I'm right for the sake of the money I just spent.

reeb

Ok, got the tool in the mail today and it works great (the 7/32 socket end) other than it's still too tight to get to the back bolt. I am an amateur here and this is the first time venturing into getting under the hood so bear with me with my questions. Can I unbolt the distributor bolt and rotate it a bit to enable me to get at the back of the ignition module and then rotate it back to it's original position? Or does this mess up the timing? Does the distributor rotate like that? Any help with this would help. Thanks.

dirtcrew51m

If you have to, loosen the dist hold down, PUT A MARK on the dist base and the block, now you can rotate the dist and when done just put the dist back to the marks.

reeb

Thanks dirtcrew, just what I was hoping to hear . And yeah, I have to. That's been my whole dilemma, not wanting to mess with the distributor but there's no other way to get at the darn teeny weeny little bolt. Hope to be running tomorrow man. Saying my prayers as I hit the sack now

autocar

I thin it is a 7/32". I am running into the same problem in that my set of deep sockets are just too thick to get to the little bolt head. So I will either break the old Ignition Module so as the get to the bolt heads or I will buy a cheap deep socket set and "grind it to find it" or.......Bust it off, change the bolts to an allen head and be done with it after applying the heat transferring grease. Let me know how y'all dealt with this problem, I could use the input. The Fuel Pressure Regulator helped, but it still wouldn't start hot.

In that I will own this old 1990 Ford til I die...might as well make it to work on. Next is welding the broken seat mount back together along with the Dee Zee side mount steps.

autocar

This may be money well spent! I can't see grinding up a perfectly good deep socket!

A Lisle 64650 will do the trick at about half the price and no shipping.

Scraptor

We just jack one from Keith at work, he probably stole it anyway.
I did the grind a socket routine, if you hold it with an extension its easier to twirl and get it even without burning your fingers.

I borrowed one like this from a parts store one night I broke down at MC Donald's.


It worked great on my 300, by the way NEVER buy a Wells brand module, unless they come in a three pack now.

BrianH

Craftsman 7/32 deepwell 1/4 in. drive works perfect!! just did mine last Sat.