rhys

Hey guys got a 89 f150 5.0 automatic. Truck will turn over but not start...what I have done:

It is getting fuel..
When I pulled a spark plug it had no spark..
Worked my way back to distributor...checked rotor and cleaned it and it rotor arm turned over when I turned truck over..
Went back to ignition coil to see if that was problem. This is where I am stuck I think...so I disconnect switch going into coil and hocked up my light to the + on the switch turned key and I got a light on, when I try to crank engine the light remains on...my dad says it should flash/blink when I do this...I am not sure.

I did try to hook up my light/tester to the ignition coil basically to the bit that sticks out thinking that my light might shine when I turned engine over, but nothing...not sure if this would work anyway..

I did try a new ignition coil but got the same results... As I am writing this my dad is saying it could be the points in the Distributor cap which are stuck and that is what the problem is??

So I guess should the feed wire for coil be blinking when turned over?

Any help is appreciated...thanks

fltdriver

I think it should be a steady flow from the coil > dist, it's the distributor that, well, distributes the current to the plug wires. If you are getting current from the 9th wire (goes from dist to coil) then the coil is functioning. Try the same process but with it on one of the plug wires.

PULL YOUR CODES

How do you know it's getting enough fuel?

Basic no starting steps:
Pull codes
Check Fuel pressure
Pull a plug, ground it, and check for spark.

rhys

ok thanks...gonna have to find a code puller as I cannot get it to garage...I guess my question would be in regards to "If you are getting current from the 9th wire (goes from dist to coil) then the coil is functioning. "....I am not sure if I am getting power from coil to dist??

fltdriver

First of all read this:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/

Everyone of us can pull our own codes at any time (except you 96 suckers), it will be a huge help to you in the future to know how to at least pull the KOEO codes by heart. The KOER test has a few directions that MUST be followed in order to get any codes that aren't test failure codes.

Pull the 9th wire off of the ignition coil, place positive on the barb, ground your tester, turn the key. If you have juice then replace the wire and pull one of the spark plug wires off of the dist cap, power to barb, ground your tester, turn the engine over, should get on/off/on/off light.

If both of those work then you have spark going to the plugs, try using a jumper cable and attach it somewhere on the engine block and clamping it to the frame, this will ensure that your engine ground is properly working.

If nothing so far I would really lean towards fuel pressure issue, try switching tanks if you have duals, go to the auto parts store and get one of their loaner FP testers. You put down a deposit but they give it all back when you bring it back. Check your pressure KOEO, KOER, and 2-4 minutes after shutting engine off to check for bleed down (I know it's awful hard to do the last two when it won't start but you can do that after you get it going just to verify functionality).

rhys

found out the issue was the ignition control module...fitted a new one this morning and now its running great.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

For future reference, you can't see the blinking your Dad mentioned with a regular test light, it blinks too fast. You would have to use an LED test light for that.
And the points in the distributor have been replaced with an electronic pickup module (that does the exact same thing, but lasts longer)

rhys

Thanks Chris...my dad kept saying "where are the 'points' maybe they need to be cleaned...when I was younger there was points you would clean....He turns 70 tomorrow..good to know about electronic pickup module and LED light test.