1994 F-150 Driver

I hate to post 4 times in a row, but I have some more information for you guys. I let my truck sit since 5:00 and at 8:00 I went out and tried to start it. It started right up and ran for about 10 min. A little hesitation with throttle, but nothing serious, although it had never done that before. As soon as it started to warm up it bogged down and died out on it's own. So I've ruled out the fuel delivery system since it ran. I realized my EGR isn't as clean as I thought it was and my hand cleaning (on the truck) didn't work so well. I can't get the bolts off to soak it in carb cleaner, so I just sprayed a bunch in there and am going to let it sit over night outside. Will carb cleaner freeze at 0*F? Does this new information help any of you out? Again I appreciate all your help.

1994 F-150 Driver

So I was looking under the hood more this morning and I found a broken vacuum line. It's the small black one circled in the picture below. Can anybody tell me what this does? I'm going to replace it, but would this maybe be the issue I've been having?

I grabbed this picture off of wheelerboy12's thread because it shows exactly what I needed.

Aktech

That looks like a air bypass valve. I don`t know much about the inline 6 so bear with me. I`ll get the book out. If it looks broke see if you can fix it for sure. If it is a abv it should have two small hoses on it. One goes to the tab and the other goes to the tad valves. If you can get the engine to start again see if you can get a vac reading off the boost hose.

1994 F-150 Driver

Alright I'll patch that line right up. Even if it's not the issue, it should still be fixed. I don't have a vacuum gauge, but I'll take the booster off and see if there is sufficient vacuum. I've seafoamed my truck many times so I have a rough idea of what it should feel like.

1994 F-150 Driver

So I couldn't get my truck started at all. It'll turn over then bang like it's gonna start up, but it just stops after that. Then it'll repeat itself if I keep the key in the ignition position. Last night I started thinking that since it died off once it warmed up that maybe the o2 sensor is the issue. Once the o2 sensor heats up, if it's bad, it would flood the engine and kill it. So I unplugged the sensor to see if it would continue to run after it heated up and that's when I found out that it won't start. My battery is now completely dead from trying to start it. My buddy got a brand new battery last week, with 700 cold crank amps, and it still will not start (let alone barely turn over) when jumped with that battery.

Aktech

Sorry I have been running errands the last two days. Whats the update of your truck? I`ll post what your codes mean in the next post.

1994 F-150 Driver

The latest update is my post before you.

Aktech

522= truck not in park, I think you new that
172=HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault/lean, If thats you abv it could be making bank two run lean so fix that hose.
332= Insufficient air flow detected, The egr needs vac to open,that leaking hoses needs to be fix. That leak could be robbing the vac to do so.
556=Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault, did changing that horn relay help?
Remember to reset the computer when you have done any work and repull codes after.

1994 F-150 Driver

Okay, so I have a vacuum leak to fix. I know the carb cleaner trick, but how do I find a vacuum leak if I can't start the truck and don't have a vacuum pump? I have a feeling there is no way.

Aktech

Plug the o2 back in or change it,this really can`t be tested.Charge the battery, needs 12 volts or more. 556 needs to be fixed first opinon. Can you hear the fuel pump turn on when you first turn the key? Test the map just for kicks, if this is not working right it may give you a rich or lean condition also. The vac on the engine needs to be tested. I like the mity vac but there are cheaper hand pumps out there. Do you have a multy meter?