How to remove/install ignition actuator on a '96 F150
03-17-2010, 05:42 PM
#1
How to remove/install ignition actuator on a '96 F150
Hi,
I'm new to this forum and have the following problem:
Out of a sudden, my truck refused to start after having been very reliable.
Engine turned over but didn't fire up.
The ignition key had been binding from time to time, so I had suspected the cylinder should be replaced. Wrong.
Moved on to the ignition switch. Wrong
At some point the engine even stopped turning, and my dash has the engine/battery/ABS lights on as soon as I connect the battery, even without any cylinder or key in the ignition.
After some more investigating, it looks like the actuator rod is out of commission. It pushes down, but the bottom part doesn't move back up.
So I went to a Ford dealership and got what appeared to be the correct part for my non-tiled steering wheel truck: 2 plastic pieces, the top part has a metal pin which connects to the bottom portion.
What frustrated me was that I couldn't seem to find a way to pull the old one out. I removed the 2 lateral torx bolts on the column but couldn't wiggle the top part off far enough.
Right now, I got the key cylinder out, Ignition switch off, I removed the steering wheel, dropped the column, but still I can't seem to get to it.
Would the best way be to dry and tap out the 2 pins underneath the column housing, and do I also need to pull out the the shaft that the steering wheel bolts on to?
I'd be most appreciative of any feedback from folks who've done this sort of thing on a mid 90's F150 - thanks!
I'm new to this forum and have the following problem:
Out of a sudden, my truck refused to start after having been very reliable.
Engine turned over but didn't fire up.
The ignition key had been binding from time to time, so I had suspected the cylinder should be replaced. Wrong.
Moved on to the ignition switch. Wrong
At some point the engine even stopped turning, and my dash has the engine/battery/ABS lights on as soon as I connect the battery, even without any cylinder or key in the ignition.
After some more investigating, it looks like the actuator rod is out of commission. It pushes down, but the bottom part doesn't move back up.
So I went to a Ford dealership and got what appeared to be the correct part for my non-tiled steering wheel truck: 2 plastic pieces, the top part has a metal pin which connects to the bottom portion.
What frustrated me was that I couldn't seem to find a way to pull the old one out. I removed the 2 lateral torx bolts on the column but couldn't wiggle the top part off far enough.
Right now, I got the key cylinder out, Ignition switch off, I removed the steering wheel, dropped the column, but still I can't seem to get to it.
Would the best way be to dry and tap out the 2 pins underneath the column housing, and do I also need to pull out the the shaft that the steering wheel bolts on to?
I'd be most appreciative of any feedback from folks who've done this sort of thing on a mid 90's F150 - thanks!
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Tedw (02-25-2017)
04-13-2010, 10:58 AM
#3
Haven't replaced it yet, I'm embarrassed to say, due to lack of time.
I simply took the starter switch off the column and have been starting/turning off the engine by moving the switch pin manually.
I simply took the starter switch off the column and have been starting/turning off the engine by moving the switch pin manually.
04-14-2010, 11:00 AM
#4
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That's what I'm doing.
I did find out the partnrs for 1992-1996:
Upper: Ford Part # F2DZ*3E723*A / $12.00
Lower: Ford Part # FODZ*3E715*A / $9.28
I'd like to know if these can be replaced in a 92-96 without pulling the column.
And if I do pull it, how hard is it to get to these parts
Mine is w/o tilt...I'm hoping that avoids having to fool with the springs in the tilt mechanism.
Anybody done this recently?
I did find out the partnrs for 1992-1996:
Upper: Ford Part # F2DZ*3E723*A / $12.00
Lower: Ford Part # FODZ*3E715*A / $9.28
I'd like to know if these can be replaced in a 92-96 without pulling the column.
And if I do pull it, how hard is it to get to these parts
Mine is w/o tilt...I'm hoping that avoids having to fool with the springs in the tilt mechanism.
Anybody done this recently?
