dhonnoll

If yours isn't varnished over and eaten up (seals and diaphrams) it should work for you. Best of luck anyway I can help I will.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I give you an E for effort.

dhonnoll

Ok so I put the rear tank back on drove it for a little bit switched to the front tank and it work (sorta) on level ground. Just starves for gas so. That bottom diaphram that was totally eaten away by the varnished old gasoline is very necessary. I figure if I had more gas in it it would have worked fine. But I will replace the whole assembly. I just hope I can clean the float sensor out. It goes WAY past full now. I don't THINK I had it in there upside down. It is kinda dummy proof as far as that goes. Just still had flakey crusty crud on it.

azwhitemouse

This is what the module looks like from O'Reileys for $125.99

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...01_p04_ang.jpg

And this is what the entire fuel pump looked like for $536.99

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...a407kb-fro.jpg

My problem is I can't figure out how the top with the metal lines comes off. Any ideas?

southernyankey1

I did that twice and had good results...the last time i had to break down and buy the assembly for the same reason as you...the little diaphram let go. Airtex pumps never lasted me more than 13 months (had 2 of them on different vehicles) and NAPA wanted something ridiculous like $450 or so for an assembly. (REALLY?????) I ended up coughing up for a Rockauto assembly and haven't had an issue since.

Man! That tank was NASTY!!! Great job on the r/r on that one...
If the gauge is pegging out past F it is possibly a bad harness connector on the tank. I had to replace mine 2 pumps ago for the same reason.

azwhitemouse

The problem I'm having is the 3rd metal line going into the pump module won't let go and come out so I can replace it. The line is just some sort of vent or return but I don't want to mess it up and cost $400.00 more for the whole pump assembly than just the module. I know I can just cut the plastic away because it never matters how things come apart, it's how they go together. Just thought I was missing a clip or some trick before I break the plastic. It's on the front tank on my 1994 F-150 LX metal tank.

dr_bowtie

once all the bolts were out I just twist and pull and they come right out... it does take a little bit of force.

I got a Spectra from rockauto and it lasted a year and a half... then dead. I now have an Airtex in it and I hear they are just as bad.

azwhitemouse

Thanks everyone for the feed back. Especially about the brands. I don't think I will be going with the Airtex. For about $25 more I was looking at the Delphi brand. Has anyone tried one of those? I'm tempted to try seeing what Summit Racing has. Maybe spend a little more for a hi-performance one that will not have to be changed in a year or 2. We get paid Friday and by then I hope to have my minds made up. Thanks ahead of time.

Lazarus-F150

I have a 92 4.9L/6cyl with a single tank and judging from the coffee-like backwash from my last fuel filter (I just replaced it after only being in place for ~1000 miles and it looks like it might have been an old farm truck that may have sat for a bit) it might be beneficial to improve the fuel system. I bought it about a year ago and I would like to get it up to par to be a daily driver. I was thinking about replacing the tank, pump assy., and fuel level sender (I am pretty sure that all are OEM and based on the crazy actions of my fuel gauge, the sender is having some issues).

Any suggestions on suppliers for the tank/pump assy./sender?

Is there anything special about doing this other than dropping the tank and swapping the indicated components?

Thanks!

5Rangers

LOL....