Help! Ignition miss
#1
Help! Ignition miss
Help! I've got a late 1995 150 with a 302. For the past year it has had what I've narrowed down to an ignition miss that I cannot figure out. I've had 2 veteran mechanics look at it and not be able to figure it out. Essentially, the engine bucks or misses when it in low to midrange rpm and under a load. (There's a jump in the voltage to the TPS at 2.2, which seems to be causing the miss). I've replaced or tested all ignition related parts, including the Throttle position sensor. All other sensors are operating as they should. I've replaced vacuum lines, you name it. I have not replaced the ECU, which I'm thinking is my next attempt. Please help with any ideas or suggestions! It's been going on over a year and drives me nuts!
#3
I was hoping that would be the case, but after replacing it with Motocraft, and dialing it in, I'm still getting a miss. The same as before. Any other ideas? I'm leaning toward the computer...
#4
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Pull your codes.
It very well could be a glitch with the ECU, before replacing though I would do some PMing on related components. Clean the TB, clean any connectors associated (TPS, injectors, IAC, etc..) as well as any chassis grounds in the engine bay, doesn't ever hurt to clean things up and even though they may not solve your current issue it may prevent something in the future. Ensure that you don't have vacuum leaks, if you still have the OEM plastic lines or older looking rubber replacements it would be best just to swap them out with new (I recommend these over regular rubber, http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361, 22ft of 4mm, also need a 4 way vacuum tee-available at auto/hardware store). Ensure that your cap/rotor are in good shape, test the PIP sensor in the distributor.
It very well could be a glitch with the ECU, before replacing though I would do some PMing on related components. Clean the TB, clean any connectors associated (TPS, injectors, IAC, etc..) as well as any chassis grounds in the engine bay, doesn't ever hurt to clean things up and even though they may not solve your current issue it may prevent something in the future. Ensure that you don't have vacuum leaks, if you still have the OEM plastic lines or older looking rubber replacements it would be best just to swap them out with new (I recommend these over regular rubber, http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361, 22ft of 4mm, also need a 4 way vacuum tee-available at auto/hardware store). Ensure that your cap/rotor are in good shape, test the PIP sensor in the distributor.
#5
Pull your codes.
It very well could be a glitch with the ECU, before replacing though I would do some PMing on related components. Clean the TB, clean any connectors associated (TPS, injectors, IAC, etc..) as well as any chassis grounds in the engine bay, doesn't ever hurt to clean things up and even though they may not solve your current issue it may prevent something in the future. Ensure that you don't have vacuum leaks, if you still have the OEM plastic lines or older looking rubber replacements it would be best just to swap them out with new (I recommend these over regular rubber, http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361, 22ft of 4mm, also need a 4 way vacuum tee-available at auto/hardware store). Ensure that your cap/rotor are in good shape, test the PIP sensor in the distributor.
It very well could be a glitch with the ECU, before replacing though I would do some PMing on related components. Clean the TB, clean any connectors associated (TPS, injectors, IAC, etc..) as well as any chassis grounds in the engine bay, doesn't ever hurt to clean things up and even though they may not solve your current issue it may prevent something in the future. Ensure that you don't have vacuum leaks, if you still have the OEM plastic lines or older looking rubber replacements it would be best just to swap them out with new (I recommend these over regular rubber, http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silic...686d47fdf65361, 22ft of 4mm, also need a 4 way vacuum tee-available at auto/hardware store). Ensure that your cap/rotor are in good shape, test the PIP sensor in the distributor.
#6
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
ECU and ICM would be the next two steps, though not sure if there is a way to test them or if they are just a replace and pray kind of deal. Best bet would be to find someone with same truck and swap one or the other to see if it changes.
#7
So my problem as it relates to the ECU is that Ford didn't make an f150 with a 302 equipped with mass air flow that also had a 5 speed. They did in the Mustang. I've been told by 2 very experienced mechanics that I have an ignition miss. Before I go replacing the ECU, I'm trying to figure out whether there is any way to reflash the computer to work with a 5 speed, to see if that's the issue or not. Any advice or thoughts would be much appreciated.
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#8
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
What? I thought every engine/trans option on the 96 model has MAF? I know that's OBDII so it doesn't really help you. Pretty sure though that ford was all MAF in 95 as well, regardless of the trans.
Last edited by fltdriver; 09-22-2015 at 06:44 AM.
#9
Right about obd11. All that I've been able to find are speed density. I bought a computer off eBay for a 95 150 with a 5 speed, but it is speed density...I believe they fully made the conversion in 96.
Last edited by bobby150; 09-22-2015 at 08:47 PM.