itsallchickenboy

I am having major issues removing the clutch linkage from the pedal to the master cylinder push rod, the bushing at where the push rod meets the cross shaft needs to be replaced, also the bushings on the other side.

Heres a video (I am sorry for such bad quality but the best I could do at the time I will try to get something better soon! I would make the video full screen on your comp. it helps a bunch.) and to explain it ******I have pauses into it.***** The first pause is showing one of the first bushing I need to get off to replace. The second pause it to show the cross shaft that I cannot get to budge. I have the bolt off at the top and the push rod disconnected but it wont come off so I cant get the whole clutch linkage out. In the Hayes manual it just says "Take off clutch cross shaft" Well it really isnt that easy and I would love for anyone who has experience with this part of our trucks to give me a hand. The last pause is showing the other bushing I also need to take of and replace.
The reason I am doing all of this is because those bushings are worn out so the linkage has way to much play and that is making the clutch push rod not fully engage which wont activate the Neutral Safety Switch so I am having a Hell of a time trying to get it to start and shift. (I could barely pull it around into my garage)
Thank you in advanced, I just can't seem to get this!

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Dude, you have to take that whole assembly out to change those bushings. You'll never get the shaft out of the bracket with it up there. And the clutch pedal pivot is pressed onto the shaft.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Here's some pictures:

whiteangel

I had the same problem, wornout bushings at the point of not being able to start the engine, what I did, went to the junkyard and found couple of brake and clutch bracket, its the full component
You have to disconect the speedometer cable that runs trough the bracket, its fairly easy, it took me around 4 hrs to install it, a trip to the junkyard and $32 for the parts,
Good luck

fordtrucknut

you dont have to pull the rod out...

look up on auto zone part number 74016.

they can be put in with pulling it.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Best to pull it out to give it a good inspection. Look at mine, the aluminum is eroded and I had to replace the whole thing. Then the replacement snapped in half.

fordtrucknut

true on that. were you moving down the road when that happened? i bet it would have been fun lol.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

There were warnings, the dash was popping for a week or so. Yes I was driving but it still worked enough to get me home.

itsallchickenboy

Thank you guys a bunch!! I have pulled the pedal box out, by pulling the brake booster and clutch master cylinder then unbolting everything. When I took the shaft out I looked where the bushing sits and then measured it with a digital caliper on both ends I found that one side has been worn down and out so there is too much play. Looks like I am going to have to go to the stealership because there i no way I am going to a Junkyard and pulling all of this stuff out of there, especially when I wouldn't know how bad that box in that truck would be worn. Here are some pictures of the process.

-First Picture is when I had it removed and still together.

-Second picture is how I have the brake booster resting so I dont break any brake lines.


-Third picture is of the hole that is worn which is making the whole shaft and linkage not work correctly, not to mention the bearings that I dare not show on here there so torn apart. (Partly due to me when I was trying to get this thing off. :-) its all good though!)

↓↓↓↓There are more photos of my truck at the link in my signature below. ↓↓↓↓

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Ah, yours is the newer steel one. Cheaper than my aluminum one.