Hard to start and no power to leave the driveway
#11
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
The KAM test failure is an electrical issue, most of the time it can be cleared up by cleaning connectors/checking wires and pins for damage.
116(O,R)Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range – ECT. This could explain away your loss of power and inability to start. Take the KOER test again now that things have "dried" out. If you still get this code (or even if you don't) clean the connector for the ECT sensor (not the sending unit for the dash). If this doesn't keep the code from coming back then replace it. Personally, they are cheap and I would just replace it anyway as it's probably original. Once again, the sensor not the sending unit.
412(R)Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) – ISC. Check and clean the IAC, preform unplug test (unplug IAC then start the truck, if it idles better with it unplugged then IAC is most likely shot, can verify by testing resistance~7-13ohms, anything else and the solenoid is shot).
To properly clear codes start any test, KOEO is easiest, then remove the jumper wire/paperclip while the codes are being displayed. This will clear codes without deleting the driver data in the PCM like disconnecting the battery does.
116(O,R)Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range – ECT. This could explain away your loss of power and inability to start. Take the KOER test again now that things have "dried" out. If you still get this code (or even if you don't) clean the connector for the ECT sensor (not the sending unit for the dash). If this doesn't keep the code from coming back then replace it. Personally, they are cheap and I would just replace it anyway as it's probably original. Once again, the sensor not the sending unit.
412(R)Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) – ISC. Check and clean the IAC, preform unplug test (unplug IAC then start the truck, if it idles better with it unplugged then IAC is most likely shot, can verify by testing resistance~7-13ohms, anything else and the solenoid is shot).
To properly clear codes start any test, KOEO is easiest, then remove the jumper wire/paperclip while the codes are being displayed. This will clear codes without deleting the driver data in the PCM like disconnecting the battery does.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Great! Thanks Flt!
All this sounds like things I can get done after work.
-I will just replace the ECT sensor.
-Clean IAC
-Clear and recheck codes
I can't thank you guys enough for the help. This is a great place to learn to take care of your car at home, thanks to you all.
All this sounds like things I can get done after work.
-I will just replace the ECT sensor.
-Clean IAC
-Clear and recheck codes
I can't thank you guys enough for the help. This is a great place to learn to take care of your car at home, thanks to you all.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Rained yesterday, Now it won't start
Well, It is happening again. We had a hard rain in Raleigh yesterday and now it won't fire. The starter is spinning and it coughs once, but that is it. I bought a coil, plug wires and cap/rotor tonight. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
I did not know these trucks could be so water sensitive. Maybe I got a dud!
If you guys have any ideas, please let me know. This thing is driving me crazy!
I did not know these trucks could be so water sensitive. Maybe I got a dud!
If you guys have any ideas, please let me know. This thing is driving me crazy!
#14
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
They aren't all that sensitive, I would check for anyplace that water is getting to. Sounds like there may be some damaged wires/connectors/components that are grounding out with heavy rain. The easiest fixes are usually electrical, though, they are also the hardest to track down.
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Haha. Believe me I agree. They have proven very difficult to find. Is there any procedure that would help me track down the issue?
I have tried tracing the water with the hose, but it is not obvious enough.
I will start with replacing the coil cap and wires and see if that helps. They need it anyway, they look pretty weathered. Hopefully it is a plug wire arcing.
I have tried tracing the water with the hose, but it is not obvious enough.
I will start with replacing the coil cap and wires and see if that helps. They need it anyway, they look pretty weathered. Hopefully it is a plug wire arcing.
#16
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
For wires just mist with lightest setting of mist you can make at night with the engine running, if wires are bad then you'll get a pretty cool light show.
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wkbogie (08-21-2015)
#17
Member
Thread Starter
FLT,
That sounds like a great idea. I will video it!
The truck started right up this morning and Koeo and koer both gave all 1's. So looks like it is up to me to hunt it down... with the tutelage of you guys of course!
I think I may have to pull the computer and take a look as well. For some reason I feel like it may be getting wet.
That sounds like a great idea. I will video it!
The truck started right up this morning and Koeo and koer both gave all 1's. So looks like it is up to me to hunt it down... with the tutelage of you guys of course!
I think I may have to pull the computer and take a look as well. For some reason I feel like it may be getting wet.