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Old 01-23-2014, 03:20 PM   #51
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So should I spend the $500 for the gt40's, or spend triple the amount for aftermarket aluminum ones?
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:46 PM   #52
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So my goal is around 300 pony's, so do you guys think that this will get my there:

- heads: gt40 or other
- custom cam
- long tube headers
- ported stock intake
- tune

What else?
Everything here sounds good.

Regarding the heads, you more than likely won't get 300hp with GT40 heads, so you'll have to go with aftermarket heads.
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:44 PM   #53
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Everything here sounds good.

Regarding the heads, you more than likely won't get 300hp with GT40 heads, so you'll have to go with aftermarket heads.
Great! What heads would you recommend that won't completely break the bank?
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:18 AM   #54
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If you want to lose torque take the gt40 intake it'll give you power back on top end, you want pulling power keep the truck intake.
Longer runners = more torque
shorter = more horsepower
The only way to really improve the truck manifold is port matching the upper and lower sections.
He nailed it there. Long tube runners increase intake velocity which is what is required to make torque. Modern engines use variable runners. The start with the long ones for strong low rpm torque then at high rpm and wide open throttle the valves switch to short tubes to get the high demand air in quickly. So if you plan on going wide open at stop lights and don't mind waiting a block to develops power and you want to haul *** at high speed on a circle track or on the freeway the mustang intake ( designed for a car a good 1000 lbs lighter) is the way to go. If you want a lively acceleration at stop lights, to be able to burn some tires, to haul a load, to climb out of a ditch or to get the hell out of your own way the factory intake is the best bang for the buck. If you want more have it ported. Or if you have the bucks order an aftermarket made for trucks. For a simple reference formula cars use super short wide intakes and small short stroke cylinders. They run high speeds at 1000 rpm and make a ton of horsepower. They also push them out of the pits and they stall if you let the rpm fall.
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Old 01-24-2014, 04:41 PM   #55
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Great! What heads would you recommend that won't completely break the bank?
Honestly, when going with aftermarket heads, its going to be around a $1500-$1600 investment unless you find a great deal on used heads in good condition.

Trick Flow heads have the best price. Roughly $1200 a set, but you still have to budget for pushrods and rocker arms, which put you right back up to the $1500-$1600 range.

As far as what I recommend? Either Trick Flow or AFR 165. If you want to be different, Brodix ST 5.0 is another option.
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:56 PM   #56
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He nailed it there. Long tube runners increase intake velocity which is what is required to make torque. Modern engines use variable runners. The start with the long ones for strong low rpm torque then at high rpm and wide open throttle the valves switch to short tubes to get the high demand air in quickly. So if you plan on going wide open at stop lights and don't mind waiting a block to develops power and you want to haul *** at high speed on a circle track or on the freeway the mustang intake ( designed for a car a good 1000 lbs lighter) is the way to go. If you want a lively acceleration at stop lights, to be able to burn some tires, to haul a load, to climb out of a ditch or to get the hell out of your own way the factory intake is the best bang for the buck. If you want more have it ported. Or if you have the bucks order an aftermarket made for trucks. For a simple reference formula cars use super short wide intakes and small short stroke cylinders. They run high speeds at 1000 rpm and make a ton of horsepower. They also push them out of the pits and they stall if you let the rpm fall.
Definitely the burn tires, haul loads, smoke rice burners, etc...
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:58 PM   #57
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For right now I'm just going to do Lt headers, than in a few months I'll pull the engine and rebuild it. Any comments on what kind of headers? @LOCO LAPTOP, you have Pacesetter's right? How do you like them?
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:10 PM   #58
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For right now I'm just going to do Lt headers, than in a few months I'll pull the engine and rebuild it. Any comments on what kind of headers? @LOCO LAPTOP, you have Pacesetter's right? How do you like them?
So far so good on them, Good fitment, doesn't touch the frame or body (close however). Only issue is you cannot use the O2 sensor holes that comes pre-made with them because the senors won't fit due to how close it is to the transmission due to the angles of the O2 holes.

These are the exact ones that I have.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ps...96/model/f-150
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:03 AM   #59
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So far so good on them, Good fitment, doesn't touch the frame or body (close however). Only issue is you cannot use the O2 sensor holes that comes pre-made with them because the senors won't fit due to how close it is to the transmission due to the angles of the O2 holes.

These are the exact ones that I have.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ps...96/model/f-150
Wow I had a ton of trouble with the bolts and leaks. Clearance was no problem but getting tools on the bolts was a pain. What kind of fasteners did you use?
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:07 AM   #60
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Wow I had a ton of trouble with the bolts and leaks. Clearance was no problem but getting tools on the bolts was a pain. What kind of fasteners did you use?
I didn't use their gasket that was provided so that might be why it doesn't leak. But I used their bolts with some ARP Ultra Torque.
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:07 AM
 
 
 
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