zorknards2

my indash dvd was stolen out my truck and i beleive they grounded out my constant power it blew my fuse and i replaced it but i still dont get any constant power i think it might be a fusible link though i cant tell they dont look burnt should they be burnt looking since they melt ?

any advise would be much appreciated

Lynx_Gen

quite often with a fusible link you realy cant tell just by looking at it.

about the easiest way to tell that I know of is to grabb each end of it and pull gently, see if it stretches in a spot. if so its likely cooked.

the good/proper way is to use a mulit meter. set it to ohms, and test from one end of the wire to the other. should read a zero resistance, (in theory) but if it reads infinit, then its deffinately cooked.
(be sure to disconnect power when using the Ohms setting on your multi-meter)

you can buy rolls of fusible link wire at most parts stores to fix. its pretty cheap. might even be able to buy short lengths of it as well. just be sure to get the proper gauge of fusible link for what you are replacing.

I'd hate to hear of your trucking burning up...

zorknards2

thank you i am going to check that now

ymeski56

I see no fusible link between radio & fuse box. There is a power split to a light circuit. Aftermarket radios many times add an inline fuse before the radio. Check continuity of the ground wire to a chassis ground. You need POS & NEG to complete a circuit!

Lynx_Gen

it never occured to me to check that.. i just adressed the how to check a fusible link. Sorry.

ymeski56 is right. check the continuity for the power supply and the ground path.
I personaly perfer to start from the problem. Check from the power out to the next plug or switch. then the from there to the next, then the next, till you find the source. generaly most problems tend to arise on the power positive side of things, but not always.

I dont know of any relays n such in the system, but those would be something to check first off..

sorry I cant be of any further real help, but I just got my own truck not too long ago, and havent realy touched it yet or become familiar with it.

if theres anything particular you'd like me to look up that would help you out though, let me know and I'll try my best.

on another note.. if its just the constant powedr thats a problem, then run a new wire, with an inline fuse, from the batt to your decks constant pwr. mainly just to check that the wiring itself is the probelm.

If the deck works fine after putting in a new wire/alternate path of ground and/or power then that means there is still something wrong with your wiring. Dont slough it off.

And then its time to actualy properly check everything out.

Im pretty good with electrical stuff. Im only an aprretnice mechanic, but I already rrealize, if I worked at a *ahem cough sputter* "Dealership" and had to more or less pick something to specialize in, I think I would have to pick electrical.

its so easy, quick and simple to diagnose electrical stuffs.. All though I've had alot of fun replacing hydro-locked engines this summer.. (I love 4x4 season!!!)

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to go all the way to the battery to pull a new power. You can come off the fuse box.

Lynx_Gen

but for the sake of testing to see if its the deck or the wiring, I would just go straight to the batt.

If its to be left permanent, throw in a relay as well.

I have always perfered to run/make my own separate wiring and harness for my stereo systems n setups. I just dont trust factory wiring to run anything above factory setups.

I'm personaly not a fan of piggybacking electrical current off of other fuses/circuits and such. If using relays and such, then its generaly not an issue, as a relay can be used to take a very small un-obtrusive current and trigger a much larger required current.

However, all things aside, I think the real issue is that there is an electrical fault. It should be corrected or eliminated.

Sure, maybe it will just prevent something from working.
Maybe it'll just cause a slight corosion to build up someplace at the source of a short.
Maybe it'll just constantly keep the battery trickling down to nothing, requiring a need to boost the vehicle after sitting for a day/week/mnth, or two.
Maybe it'll just cause nothing at all...

MAYBE it'll cause a random spark to ignite an excess of fuel, or hydrogen fumes from a dead overworking/charging battery, or maybe heat up too much because its not protected, and BURN THE VEHICLE DOWN!
(Just theoretical possibilities..)

just test the circuits with an Ohms meter. find the problem in like 10-20mins, spend another 15-30 fixin it.
No more problems, and your stuff works.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I would call that a temporary solution until the problem is fixed. No need piercing through the firewall to run the radio. Now an amp, straight to the battery.