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Old 03-30-2010, 02:09 AM   #1
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Default Fuel pump remains on & truck won't start - HELP

I've tried the other popular Ford F150 forum, but no one seems to help there. Anyway here is my problem. It's confusing the crap out of us.

Symptoms:
1. With the key in the ON position, the fuel pump remains on (I can hear it) and never turns off.
2. The truck turns over, but will not start. We are not getting a spark from the plugs.

Things we've tried:
1. New fuel pressure regulator.
2. And EXPERT told us undoubtedly that it was our distributor. We replaced it. Did nothing to help. We have considered that we might have the distributor on while piston 1 is on the exhaust stroke (we doubt it), but just to make sure we are checking this tomorrow.
3. Cleaned and re-gaped the plugs.
4. Tested the continuity of the ignition coil. Everything checked out fine. This does NOT guarantee that it is putting out the proper voltage, but come on...
5. Checked fuel lines. The injectors are getting gas. Not sure if it's the right pressure, but they are getting gas.


If the distributor turns out to not solve the problem of starting, we are going to these next steps:
A. We are going to replace the ignition control module. This might be the culprit for no spark.
B. We think the fuel pump relay can solve the pump staying on constantly.


Any input on this situation would be greatly appreciated. This problem is so freaking frustrating. There are too many parts that can go wrong to cause this. I miss old vehicles and I'm too young to have even owned one. Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:37 AM   #2
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I dont know much about these older motors but I dont see the issue with the fuel pump always staying on? As long as it goes off when the key is off and stays on when the key is on what is the issue? Also I would put money on the spark issue being the ignition control module. Check the grounding of that ignition box, make sure it is good? Just throwin stuff out there now.
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:26 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forum! Steps you're going to try make perfect sense. Ignition control module is a common issue for this trucks. I suggest to solve a spark problem first, and see what will the truck behave like after that.
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:18 AM   #4
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Take the TFI in & have it checked. Do a fuel pressure check. Do a Key on engine off Error code scan. Do those 3 things & it'll be running by the end of the first page of posts! If, the engine wasn't disturbed while the distributor was out, I doubt your 180 out. !80 out will mimic a jumped timing chain. You'll still get spark, but not when your supposed to. A couple teeth out, maybe! W/ the plugs out, a good time to do a compression check.
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Old 03-31-2010, 02:03 AM   #5
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Thanks for all the tips guys. We've ran about every electrical test we could on the coil and we're getting the proper readings. Everything we've done in the Hayne's manual is pointing towards the ICM.

As for the fuel pump not shutting off when the key is ON... well, we're just trying to get some darn spark right now. Hopefully the relay is all we need for that.

Will report back once we get it all figured out so this problem can help others with the same symptoms.
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icer22x View Post
Thanks for all the tips guys. We've ran about every electrical test we could on the coil and we're getting the proper readings. Everything we've done in the Hayne's manual is pointing towards the ICM.

As for the fuel pump not shutting off when the key is ON... well, we're just trying to get some darn spark right now. Hopefully the relay is all we need for that.

Will report back once we get it all figured out so this problem can help others with the same symptoms.
The TFI module is the ICM. TFI modules must be bench checked as they won't show on an errorcode scan. The PIP senor will show, if it's bad. However if either requires replacement, replace them both. Hard to tell by symptom which would actually be responsible w/o testing, but failure of their counterpart is usually right around the corner anyway. PIP sensor replacement requires removal & disassembly, then re-assembly (which doesn't alway's go well by itself) of the distributor & at $70/ hr, it's prudent to just drop in a new distributor which includes the PIP. The drive gear on the Dist. is made of a slightly softer metal composition than the gear that drives it, so replacement also tightens tolerances between the gears. Rather than trying to explain all this to a customer, mechanics usually just say,"replace the Distributor"! A PIP sensor is $12-22. by itself.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:12 PM   #7
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Check your fuel pump relay, it could be shot and keeping your fuel pump running when the truck is off.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymeski56 View Post
The TFI module is the ICM. TFI modules must be bench checked as they won't show on an errorcode scan. The PIP senor will show, if it's bad. However if either requires replacement, replace them both. Hard to tell by symptom which would actually be responsible w/o testing, but failure of their counterpart is usually right around the corner anyway. PIP sensor replacement requires removal & disassembly, then re-assembly (which doesn't alway's go well by itself) of the distributor & at $70/ hr, it's prudent to just drop in a new distributor which includes the PIP. The drive gear on the Dist. is made of a slightly softer metal composition than the gear that drives it, so replacement also tightens tolerances between the gears. Rather than trying to explain all this to a customer, mechanics usually just say,"replace the Distributor"! A PIP sensor is $12-22. by itself.
Well this problem is REALLY pissing us off. It's gone from frustrating to down right suicidal.

Including everything we've tried in my original post today we replaced the TCM AND got a new freaking coil AND a new fuel pump relay. NOTHING has changed. The fuel pump STILL stays on when the key is in the ON position and we are STILL not getting spark.

So after replacing the TCM, coil, and the distributor... what can it be?!?!?! What else is there to replace in the ignition system? The condenser is the last thing on our list to replace and I seriously doubt that is going to fix it...

We're out of ideas...
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:58 PM   #9
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Last time I'm posting this. Check fuel pressure at the rail & Error code scans.
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:00 PM   #10
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You need to check for codes. Always check for codes first, it will save you money.
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