WOOSTERKEN

i have a'95 F150 4x4 , 4.9l I6 , auto trans, auto hubs. 4 shocks on front.

here is the problem, the right tower has rusted in half
where is a good place to get a replacement?
already checked out LMC.COM , for some reason the right one is $134.95
and the left one is $149.95.

being it is original, it is probably riveted to the frame , right?
I guess the spring has to be compressed to remove it , and I will all so have to replace the shocks.

is this do able in the drive way or shop only?
I have the tools and the willingness to give it a try

thanks

Welder7018

It can be a drive way if you can get the frame jacked up enough to relive stress on the springs. Just enough to get the weight off of them. Grind or shear off the rivet. Bolt new one on with grade A bolts. The new shock towers you could get at a junk yard for cheap maby $20 each. It's not too difficult. I've watched a buddy do it to his 97 f250

WOOSTERKEN

ok ! I found them at bronco grave yard .com
the right is $100 and the left is $135 for the double shock models.

living in ohio , the one from the junk yard would probably not be in much beter shape

Scraptor

Unless they replaced them before it rusted apart some where else.

You might want to unbolt your shocks at the bottom first and take them out with the tower, they take a special socket to hold the shaft from turning while you loosen the upper nut, if you can get at them you can hold the flats with a adjustable wrench or vise grips. If you support the frame by the rad arm mount, or ahead of the axle, you can unload the spring enough to unhook the top, I use a scissor jack between the radius arm and frame. Then you should be able to work behind the spring to cut the rivets and catty corner the tower out.
Obviously you can't support the truck by the axle to do this.

1990-5.0-4x4

when i did mine i completely removed the shock, i have a single shock set up, jacked up the truck high enough to get my 33's off the ground and propped a couple jack stands on the frame behind the front axle. this will keep it out of your way so you dont have to worry too much about kicking or anything. the grade 8 bolts will have the 5 hash marks on the head too. getting the old rivets out is the hardest part of the whole thing. once theyre out it goes pretty quick

fordtrucknut

grade 8 bolts have 6 hash marks. not 5.

1990-5.0-4x4

haha i was so close! lol i was trying to picture em in my head from when i did mine.... not such a good memory apparently lol

WOOSTERKEN

hey, I appreciate all the help
one more silly question , is there room for a 4 1/2" grinder to get the rivets off?
or should I get an air power chisel?

it would give me an excuse to get a new tool

i have a 2.5 hp 10 gal. compressor

1990-5.0-4x4

there should be enough room, but it'd be tight on a couple of the edges. but it'd be safer to use the air chisel lol now you have a good reason to get a new tool. nothing trumps safety

mctrick

I have done mine and yes a grinder 4 1/2 in will work but you have to take the guard off and put on a face shield. put supports under the frame, jack up each side of IDS remove shocks, lower jack and springs should come out after you remove nut on top and retaining clip. and it easy to remove lower nut on the control arm. If it doesn't release the spring just step on the spindle end and it should come out.
After you get the spring released cut spring at the bottom to beable to get at the lower nut easyier with a impact or a pry bar socket. I just cut mine off and replaced bottom retaining bolt.