mbarr101

Thanks Lazarus- I'll check out the wire. The sealant came off. Took time but it's off. Attached the pan and filled up the new fluid. Everything seems good and even seems to be engaging into drive better. I guess I've been assuming from the beginning that it should take right off in drive (like it does in reverse-- I can spin tires in reverse...) but it's just slow to get up to speed. Don't know if this is a concern or just normal. I bought a vacuum gauge so I'll check vacuum pressure here soon. Best vacuum line to connect the gauge to?? It's still stalling when I pull out of the driveway tho. Also- when I use my a/c and put it on high, my engine seems to be working extra hard and my voltage gauge dips down... is this a bad alternator? Battery is brand new. Anyways- here's a pic of another loose hose I found. any ideas what this is for? I'm learning a lot on here. Thanks again-

Lazarus-F150

If you look under my hood you will see the same disintegrated vacuum line. When I asked the forum previously I was told that it is involved in controlling the switch from regular A/C to Max A/C.

Here's a link to the thread:

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/can-an...e-part-235657/

I haven't yet figured out how to replace it since it goes into the firewall. I would appreciate any thoughts that you have.

mbarr101

Thanks for the reply, Lazarus. No clue how I'm gonna fix that broken vacuum line... A/C isnt the biggest issue I have right now, but it's good to know what it does. Much appreciated.
So I got back in town today and drove her around the block. No stalls, no drive gear issues. Woot woot! My next big issue is my brake pedal that still ends up going to the floor. Tonight I'm going to attempt to bleed the brakes. Bought a cheap little 1-man kit at harborfreight. Here goes nothin. Thanks again for all the help I'm getting on here!

tvand13

That vacuum line operates the blend door for the HVAC.

Snaggletooth

I fixed the vacuum line by slipping another piece of hose over the two ends. I'd test it out but at the moment I have no power to my ac at all.

tanman90

Hey mbarr101, after my truck sat for a year and a half or so my brake pedal was doing the same thing. Well it didn't go to the floor but you had to push it way down to make a normal stop. The pedal was also very easy to push. I bled em out real good and it stops great now. Make sure you bleed them and drive it and bleed them again.

mbarr101

took longer than anticipated to start the brake bleed job.. but i finally got to it this morning only to find my two rear bleeder valves are rusted and at least one of them is stripped... any good ideas on how to take them off? torch? should I just file it down until it breaks off? this was not in my plans... smh.
thanks for all the advice as always!

Merfman

Spray with a penetrating oil for several days. Next if you can get a hammer in there, give the bleeder a good smack. Use a 6 point socket and try to loosen. Did it move? No, soak again. If it moved at all, try to tighten it. Move it back and forth until it is removed. Unfortunately, you will probably have to replace the wheel cylinders. If you get lucky and get the bleeders loose, use anti-seize to ensure you can remove them the next time. Any time I have a bleeder loose it gets a coat of anti-seize. Good luck, you will need it.

mbarr101

thanks merfman- i'll start the spraying all this week and try moving it again on fri or sat and post the progress... thanks.

Chris93XLT

You might want to go ahead and hit that area with a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill and clean that rust off there and the axle too while your at it. That will help the penetrating fluid get in there better then hit it with some paint to help stop the rust from getting worse when your done. Just my 0.02