Few problems with 1992 F250 5.8 - Brakes, Idle, 4x4
10-07-2009, 07:49 PM
#1
Few problems with 1992 F250 5.8 - Brakes, Idle, 4x4
How hard is it to fix the front right brake line on a 1992 f250 4x4 w/ 5.8?
Just got the 4x4 fixed, when I lock the hubs and throw it in 4x4, it feels funny if I turn too far, is this normal? (separate question) It feels "loose" but going straight and turning just a little makes a vibrate like its rubbing..
Which brings me to my next problem, my brakes. Front right brake is now leaking.. not from the metal line near the wheel (at least not visibly, it looks like it's coming from where the line runs through the frame (or a metal area) (I know horrible with mechanics).
I was fooling with the fixed new 4x4 (gear was shot on other side, its fixed now) and while trying to burn it out, I popped the brake line? on the opposite side (wanted to see if all 4 slide.. and they do).
Can anyone offer advice and an estimated shop cost to fix this line or how to do it myself?
Maybe some insight in to why my 5.8 idles rough...
Before it idled rougher with more things running (light bar, headlights, heat, radio, cb, etc.) Replaced the IAC valve, now it seems to be the exact opposite... it messes up when I DONT have all of these things running. Inbetween gear shifts it seems worse, if I stomp the gas 1/2 the time it will level out fine, the other half of the time it will choke and continue to choke (but rarely if ever stall). I can watch the battery gauge move with the idle, but that doesn't mean much?
I just replaced the IAC, and I seafoamed it, any ideas?
How hard is it to adjust the timing on these trucks?
Thanks in advance guys
Just got the 4x4 fixed, when I lock the hubs and throw it in 4x4, it feels funny if I turn too far, is this normal? (separate question) It feels "loose" but going straight and turning just a little makes a vibrate like its rubbing..
Which brings me to my next problem, my brakes. Front right brake is now leaking.. not from the metal line near the wheel (at least not visibly, it looks like it's coming from where the line runs through the frame (or a metal area) (I know horrible with mechanics).
I was fooling with the fixed new 4x4 (gear was shot on other side, its fixed now) and while trying to burn it out, I popped the brake line? on the opposite side (wanted to see if all 4 slide.. and they do).
Can anyone offer advice and an estimated shop cost to fix this line or how to do it myself?
Maybe some insight in to why my 5.8 idles rough...
Before it idled rougher with more things running (light bar, headlights, heat, radio, cb, etc.) Replaced the IAC valve, now it seems to be the exact opposite... it messes up when I DONT have all of these things running. Inbetween gear shifts it seems worse, if I stomp the gas 1/2 the time it will level out fine, the other half of the time it will choke and continue to choke (but rarely if ever stall). I can watch the battery gauge move with the idle, but that doesn't mean much?
I just replaced the IAC, and I seafoamed it, any ideas?
How hard is it to adjust the timing on these trucks?
Thanks in advance guys
10-07-2009, 11:12 PM
#2
Mother Trucker
The brake lines arn't real hard to change their just a lil expensive, just go to your closest parts store and pick one up and you'll see how they come off. They just thread on the one side going to the chassis and the side going to the caliper is just a bolt with two copper washers.
Get the codes pulled off the ecm...usually any parts store will do it free of charge, even if the check engine light isnt on there still can be codes. Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak....or maybe it just needs a tune up. How longs it been since its had a distributor cap, wires, and plugs done on it?
Timings easy...theres a lil spout connecter you have to pull out to disable the advance when you adjust it tho, I dunno where it is on the 92 but its either right next to the distributor in the wiring harness or on the drivers side in the corner by the firewall. You gotta pull that out then you can put your timing light on and go from there, 10 to 12 degrees is bout what you can get out of those engines, least thats all that I've been able to get out of them. Then just loosen your dist clamp and adjust as needed the timing plate is on the right side of the balancer.
Get the codes pulled off the ecm...usually any parts store will do it free of charge, even if the check engine light isnt on there still can be codes. Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak....or maybe it just needs a tune up. How longs it been since its had a distributor cap, wires, and plugs done on it?
Timings easy...theres a lil spout connecter you have to pull out to disable the advance when you adjust it tho, I dunno where it is on the 92 but its either right next to the distributor in the wiring harness or on the drivers side in the corner by the firewall. You gotta pull that out then you can put your timing light on and go from there, 10 to 12 degrees is bout what you can get out of those engines, least thats all that I've been able to get out of them. Then just loosen your dist clamp and adjust as needed the timing plate is on the right side of the balancer.
10-07-2009, 11:31 PM
#3
The brake lines arn't real hard to change their just a lil expensive, just go to your closest parts store and pick one up and you'll see how they come off. They just thread on the one side going to the chassis and the side going to the caliper is just a bolt with two copper washers.
Get the codes pulled off the ecm...usually any parts store will do it free of charge, even if the check engine light isnt on there still can be codes. Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak....or maybe it just needs a tune up. How longs it been since its had a distributor cap, wires, and plugs done on it?
Timings easy...theres a lil spout connecter you have to pull out to disable the advance when you adjust it tho, I dunno where it is on the 92 but its either right next to the distributor in the wiring harness or on the drivers side in the corner by the firewall. You gotta pull that out then you can put your timing light on and go from there, 10 to 12 degrees is bout what you can get out of those engines, least thats all that I've been able to get out of them. Then just loosen your dist clamp and adjust as needed the timing plate is on the right side of the balancer.
Get the codes pulled off the ecm...usually any parts store will do it free of charge, even if the check engine light isnt on there still can be codes. Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak....or maybe it just needs a tune up. How longs it been since its had a distributor cap, wires, and plugs done on it?
Timings easy...theres a lil spout connecter you have to pull out to disable the advance when you adjust it tho, I dunno where it is on the 92 but its either right next to the distributor in the wiring harness or on the drivers side in the corner by the firewall. You gotta pull that out then you can put your timing light on and go from there, 10 to 12 degrees is bout what you can get out of those engines, least thats all that I've been able to get out of them. Then just loosen your dist clamp and adjust as needed the timing plate is on the right side of the balancer.
Also fixing brake line this weekend, they said it's only 10-20 bucks for the line, what's expensive? Did you mean expensive to have done professionally? Please explain.
Thanks again, very informative.
10-08-2009, 04:19 AM
#4
Mother Trucker
I meant the rubber hose that goes from the chassis to the caliper...last time I bought one it cost me 30 bucks for a 10 inch long hose, but that's cause it's gotta take bout 1000 psi...and they can get away with charging you that. I bet the tune up parts will cost you bout 100, maybe less depending what you get.