Exhaust questions
#11
Senior Member
#12
I want a truck that is worth more than that! However I would like to not spend more on individual parts aside from an engine or tranny than I did the truck itself. Just saying. If I spent around $500-600 I would be good. Now that might not include cats. I think they are clogged or partially and this is what is causing my driving issues. So if I keep them in the system I am sure I will dropping more on them than I want.
#13
Senior Member
$200-250 for shorty headers, closer to $400-500 for ceramic coated or stainless.
Muffler shouldn't cost more than $100.
Y pipe and the rest can be designed by an exhaust shop. You can just leave out the cat. Or add one for $100 more. Keep in mind if you delete the cat, you yourself will have to cut it out unless you have an exhaust shop replace it with another. Regardless of emissions testing it is against federal law to remove a catalytice converter without replacing it, as far as I understand.
I'd plan on stretching your budget to $800-900 if you want to be realistic about it.
Muffler shouldn't cost more than $100.
Y pipe and the rest can be designed by an exhaust shop. You can just leave out the cat. Or add one for $100 more. Keep in mind if you delete the cat, you yourself will have to cut it out unless you have an exhaust shop replace it with another. Regardless of emissions testing it is against federal law to remove a catalytice converter without replacing it, as far as I understand.
I'd plan on stretching your budget to $800-900 if you want to be realistic about it.
#14
Why are there 2 cats back to back? can one be eliminated?
What muffler would one look for that will be somewhat quiet at idle and some sound under the throttle (driving) or should it be the other way around?
What muffler would one look for that will be somewhat quiet at idle and some sound under the throttle (driving) or should it be the other way around?
Last edited by okc lube man; 08-29-2016 at 08:19 PM. Reason: question about muffler
#15
The answer to your second question depends on which you hate more, yourself or your neighbors... Flow master makes a nice "quiet" cat-back system that is pretty quiet at idle and has a little throat to it under throttle, but not so much that it gets annoying while driving around
#16
I don't think I hate myself or necessarily my neighbor. However if my neighbor is someone around me with the muddy bass rattling my vehicle then I suppose I hate that.
I personally do not know, but I have heard from several that flow-master have a tendency to rust. I do know FWIW Chip Foose is a fan of magna flow.
I had a suburban once that I had a muffler put on (I can't remember what) the tech couldn't figure out why I wanted the noise. My kids new when to start behaving and cleaning because they could here when I got to the corner of block. Good times!
I personally do not know, but I have heard from several that flow-master have a tendency to rust. I do know FWIW Chip Foose is a fan of magna flow.
I had a suburban once that I had a muffler put on (I can't remember what) the tech couldn't figure out why I wanted the noise. My kids new when to start behaving and cleaning because they could here when I got to the corner of block. Good times!
#17
1.) I bought the 1995 Mustang Smog Delete Pulley kit from CJ Pony Parts(I think.) It was online for $50-60. Mustang Smog deletes work on these trucks, you do have to shave a 1/16 off the top edge however, it didn't fit exactly right(I could have forced it and it would have worked.)
2.) To plug the heads in the rear you'll need 9/16" diameter bolts that are 1" long. Very very hard to find, I went to a local "Fastener" store in my town and found some. They are short and fat bolts.
------Or---These "plugs" here are what Ford actually uses on the front of the heads to bolt all your accessory drives to. Its identical on the rear, made the same so you can swap left and right heads and they always match. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6086AK/1979...FQuLaQodVSECiA
3.) Headers? I been looking for some that will accept the O2 Sensor but have yet to find any, let me know if you find some. Im looking into doing my exhaust all over, either stock manifolds(nope) or shorty BBK ones.
You can run duals into your Y pipe. Just don't marry the 2 tubes together, run the single tubes the same route the Y goes. Your transfer case won't allow anything else.
4.) Cut those cats out, tell the shop its an off road vehicle only(rip your tags off around the corner before you show up.) "Farm Truck." Buy some Mustang "MIL Eliminators." Malfunction Indicator Lamp(Check Engine Light) Eliminators. They fool your CAT sniffing sensors. You just remove your CAT sesnors and plug these in place. These are different than 02 sesnors, these just sniff to see if your CAT is good or bad.
Im gonna check into these home made ones too, or you can buy some from mustang suppliers.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru....400696/page-2
2.) To plug the heads in the rear you'll need 9/16" diameter bolts that are 1" long. Very very hard to find, I went to a local "Fastener" store in my town and found some. They are short and fat bolts.
------Or---These "plugs" here are what Ford actually uses on the front of the heads to bolt all your accessory drives to. Its identical on the rear, made the same so you can swap left and right heads and they always match. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6086AK/1979...FQuLaQodVSECiA
3.) Headers? I been looking for some that will accept the O2 Sensor but have yet to find any, let me know if you find some. Im looking into doing my exhaust all over, either stock manifolds(nope) or shorty BBK ones.
You can run duals into your Y pipe. Just don't marry the 2 tubes together, run the single tubes the same route the Y goes. Your transfer case won't allow anything else.
4.) Cut those cats out, tell the shop its an off road vehicle only(rip your tags off around the corner before you show up.) "Farm Truck." Buy some Mustang "MIL Eliminators." Malfunction Indicator Lamp(Check Engine Light) Eliminators. They fool your CAT sniffing sensors. You just remove your CAT sesnors and plug these in place. These are different than 02 sesnors, these just sniff to see if your CAT is good or bad.
Im gonna check into these home made ones too, or you can buy some from mustang suppliers.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru....400696/page-2
#18
This seems like a pretty good demo of stock vs flowmaster:
I like the sound, sounds good without being too much. Sounds like drone might be an issue if you're on the highway a lot which I'm not. Not sure about the rust issues but they have a stainless version in the $500-$600 range. I'm thinking about going this route.
I like the sound, sounds good without being too much. Sounds like drone might be an issue if you're on the highway a lot which I'm not. Not sure about the rust issues but they have a stainless version in the $500-$600 range. I'm thinking about going this route.
#19
Being curious and unsure I called an exhaust shop. If I keep the cats I can't do true duals. He told me I could them out and he would do what ever I wanted. I asked about o2 and he said would put in exhaust. If I eliminate cats and did true duals I don't see how that would work. I do and I don't.
If I keep the cats are the headers still an improvement?
My dad has a 94' same motor. He has what appears to be duals. All this time and I have never looked to see how his is set up. It has a decent sound although I might go a bit more aggressive. I need to just check his out and do the same.
So headers or not? And why are there 2 cats back to back. If I need to replace them do put right back the way it is?
If I keep the cats are the headers still an improvement?
My dad has a 94' same motor. He has what appears to be duals. All this time and I have never looked to see how his is set up. It has a decent sound although I might go a bit more aggressive. I need to just check his out and do the same.
So headers or not? And why are there 2 cats back to back. If I need to replace them do put right back the way it is?