Engine turns no fuel pump noise
01-09-2009, 08:33 PM
#21
Which is it, orange with a black stripe or black with an orange stripe? You've said both. Are you sure it goes to pin 70? Did you remove the plug from the computer and check for continuity to make sure it is the same wire? Did you see if the computer has a pin in for the 70? Not just into the plug.
01-09-2009, 10:17 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sure did didn't I the wire is BK/O circut 38 that wire may not be used by Ford but it was used for a aux connector. There was a male spade bit there so a female bit was used to pwr running lights, when running light wire was taken out it sparked, that is when the fuel pump stopped running. As far as know for sure it goes to pin 70 I do not as pins 6 & 7 are BK/O as well and circuit 38 too so could be anyone of those 3 . The spade shown in fuzzy fuse panel picture is where it was plugged into had power before now it is dead, all fuses and relays are good
01-09-2009, 11:15 PM
#25
According to the wiring diagrams, these year trucks don't have as many fusible links as the older trucks. What used to be fusible links are now underhood maxi-fuses. The maxi-fuses critical to run the engine are fuse I, U, and O. The one fusible link you found is for the charging system.
Enough with the bs, it's time to try hotwiring it. The computer relay has a yellow wire, a red wire, a black wire, and either a black wire with a yellow stripe OR a red wire with a light green stripe. Put power to the red wire, which will power the whole engine systems. See if the fuel pump runs and see if it will start. You should still have the key on even though it isn't necessary and use the key to operate the starter. If the fuel pump doesn't run then put power to the dark green wire with a yellow stripe on the fuel pump relay also and try again.
Enough with the bs, it's time to try hotwiring it. The computer relay has a yellow wire, a red wire, a black wire, and either a black wire with a yellow stripe OR a red wire with a light green stripe. Put power to the red wire, which will power the whole engine systems. See if the fuel pump runs and see if it will start. You should still have the key on even though it isn't necessary and use the key to operate the starter. If the fuel pump doesn't run then put power to the dark green wire with a yellow stripe on the fuel pump relay also and try again.
01-10-2009, 07:28 AM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is what I have got so far David58 and I have been on the phone ALOT (thanks David) but the spade connector (pind #70) that was zapped is now dead
. At the fuel shutoff I have momentary power or full power when turning over at the G/Y wire tried jumping from G/Y to R/Y on fuel shut off does nothing to pump. Still have no idea what G/O wire at fuel shutoff does.
Applied power and ground to fuel pump and it runs.
The only fuseable link I have found is by the starter solenoid and it is good.
IF there is power at the inertia fuel shut off (Momentarily) then the fuse and relays for the fuel pump are good, yes?
What am I missing? Are there more fusible links, this is heck without a descent schematic.
I appreciate all suggestions, ideas and or comments.
. At the fuel shutoff I have momentary power or full power when turning over at the G/Y wire tried jumping from G/Y to R/Y on fuel shut off does nothing to pump. Still have no idea what G/O wire at fuel shutoff does. Applied power and ground to fuel pump and it runs.
The only fuseable link I have found is by the starter solenoid and it is good.
IF there is power at the inertia fuel shut off (Momentarily) then the fuse and relays for the fuel pump are good, yes?
What am I missing? Are there more fusible links, this is heck without a descent schematic.
I appreciate all suggestions, ideas and or comments.
We have power in at the inertia switch ( 2 second prime, and engine cranking ) so everything has to be working correctly before the inertia switch. Like I said on the phone we have a problem between the inertia switch and the connector at the fuel pump. Because the fuel pump works with power and a ground supplied to it and the truck runs. We also have power coming out of the inertia switch on the red/white wire ( 2 second prime, and engine cranking ) and the way the diagram reads this wire powers up the fuel pump. So thru though testing we have eliminated everything before the inertia in the equation. This only leaves a wiring problem between the inertia switch and pump connector or a pump ground problem. .Or this Jumper-ed thing I don't understand. Retest the red/white wire at the fuel pump connector. I don't remember if it is actually red/white but since you confirmed that the truck runs when you directly power and ground the pump, you can look at the connector and figure out the wire color for power and ground. So use the jumper cables the big ones that you jump start car with. Use you test light to check both power and ground before the connector at the tank. Do this by switching the test light from the + and - jumper cables.
Example 1. Hook the test light to power on the jumper cable then back probe the ground wire at the fuel pump connector if the test lamp lights we have ground.
Example 2. Hook the test light to ground on the jumper cable then back probe the power wire at the fuel pump connector if the test lamp lights when you turn on the key and lights during cranking we have power.
Report back the results.
Last edited by david58; 01-10-2009 at 08:58 AM. Reason: for content
01-10-2009, 02:51 PM
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sean, have not tried your hotwire yet, waiting for it to dry up a bit. But the BK/O that use to be hot is now not. You said that
could that of got fried?
Or where you talking about another wire?
It jumps the bridge where the tank selecter switch would be
Or where you talking about another wire?
01-10-2009, 04:06 PM
#30
I haven't found out what the blk/org wire is. The diagram you have posted doesn't show any of the correct colors for most wires.
You said you didn't know what the jumper is, that's what it is. The jumper is after the inertia switch and before the fuel pump, so it's a good possibility that it may be the problem since you have power out of the inertia switch but not to the fuel pump. If you have power out of the inertia switch then there isn't any reason to try hotwiring the truck because it won't help. You should hook a wire to the wire on the inertia switch that runs to the pump and then hook it to the pump, basically connecting the two to see if the wire is broken. If it runs this way then the problem is in that wire, and the jumper is in there somewhere.
You said you didn't know what the jumper is, that's what it is. The jumper is after the inertia switch and before the fuel pump, so it's a good possibility that it may be the problem since you have power out of the inertia switch but not to the fuel pump. If you have power out of the inertia switch then there isn't any reason to try hotwiring the truck because it won't help. You should hook a wire to the wire on the inertia switch that runs to the pump and then hook it to the pump, basically connecting the two to see if the wire is broken. If it runs this way then the problem is in that wire, and the jumper is in there somewhere.