302dude

I have done the main tune-up repairs so far- spark plugs (correct gap), wires (correct firing order and not cross firing), cap and rotor, air and fuel filters, PCV valve, fluid changes (still need to do oil but I will get there soon when this problem is done). Since I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, it will keep trying to turn over but will not start. When I actually got it to start, it was idling very low and then would shut off a few seconds later. I think that I might have jumped a tooth on the timing chain or I need to move the distributor around by loosening that nut which I cannot find at all. My question is where is that nut to try turning the distributor around (a picture would be better!!) and does anybody else have any input on this problem?

302dude

Wow, this is very weird....So I figured I would try the 351 firing order, low and behold it started right up, no missing. I twisted the distributor around to make it run a tad smoother and it worked out fine. It is strange b/c the VIN # is for a 302. Now i have to change the name from 302dude to 351 dude LOL I figured the VIN # told the truth and even the firing order on the air box is for a 302. I can't explain this one at all except for the guy before me might have changed the motor? Anyway, I think there is an intake leak b/c it idles rough and does not have that initial power until I get up to 30 mph. Up hills I lose alot of power as well. I am going to add sea foam into the intake as well and see if that makes a difference.

302dude

I have checked and no air leaks at the intake. Earlier, I posted about the induction pipe from my cat that had rusted off. There is a rich scent coming from there, and I also noticed that I am missing an exhaust manifold bolt (if that makes a big difference at all). The sea foam made a cool smoking show, but did not really make a difference at all. If anybody could help me out I would appreciate it. Also, I am about to do a compression test. I just cannot figure out why the fuel is not burning correctly. Could be timing too? Either way I hope you guys respond with some feedback

Just call me Sean

What year is your truck?

__________________
"Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated."
Early Cuyler

302dude

1989 Efi

Just call me Sean

I always start by checking the computer for codes, it should get you in the right direction. If you don't have a book the maintenance section tells you how in "diagnose trouble codes" and post any codes here.

__________________
"Fights begin, fingerprints are took, days is lost, bail is made, court dates are ignored, cycle is repeated."
Early Cuyler

bigkenni

idk if they had EGR valves back on those but maybe try that or your valves in the throttle body might be bad or something....?..just takin wild guesses lol

__________________
1987 Ford F-150 Auto. 4x4 Single Cab Longbed w/ 6" Lift and 36" Goodyear Wrangler R/T II Military OZ tires, Brand NEW 300 straight six backed up to a C6 automatic

FUTURE PLANS: 3/4 Ton Running gear and solid axle swap up front, 7.3 Turbo Diesel and 3" body lift, AND PAINT JOB!!!!

302dude

I replaced the egr piping that goes into the crankcase, and a code just popped up today that I am going to read. I will let you know what it says then.

302dude

Sorry it has taken so long, but I am having problems reading the codes. I know that you can use a piece of wire to connect from terminal 2 (ground) to the self-test input connector. Problem is, I cannot find the input connector. Says that it is a gray connector but no sight of it. What color is the wire? Hoping to hear back really soon because once I read this code, I can figure out what the problem is

JL1994

I thought i have read somewhere that the 302HO motor had used 351 Firing Order? Thinking there may be a few other things diff with the HO motor set up as well. Coould be way off though...but is something to check into....