Engine issues...need some help
12-12-2014, 04:20 PM
#11
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Check PIP while bumping engine in small increments or turning by hand, voltage should go from close to 0v to close to battery as shutter wheel in distributor passes through PIP /Hall sensor . If no good unplug SPOUT and try again. If voltage changes properly PIP sensor is usually OK.
Have you checked the ICM?
Have you checked the ICM?
12-12-2014, 05:26 PM
#12
Check PIP while bumping engine in small increments or turning by hand, voltage should go from close to 0v to close to battery as shutter wheel in distributor passes through PIP /Hall sensor . If no good unplug SPOUT and try again. If voltage changes properly PIP sensor is usually OK.
Have you checked the ICM?
Have you checked the ICM?
I also need to take some parts to the body shop, where my '88gt is getting new paint. This is bad timing!
Edit: Here's the test I found:
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/...module-tests-5
12-12-2014, 10:06 PM
#13
Well I pulled out the ignition switch and the part that slides seemed to not work very smoothly. Wasn't sure if that would cause it, but I went ahead and replaced it, since it was only $20. It didn't cure it. I tried jumping at the solenoid on the firewall and it seemed like it still wanted to stick. Regardless, I still have no spark and no start. I took the ignition coil off and bench tested it. It appears to be fine, according to the ohm specs. I even took it to the parts store to have a second opinion. They looked it up and sure enough, it was within spec. My next step, I think, would be to check the pip in the distributor. Anyone know how to test it?
The no spark is most likely the PIP if the coil is good. It's a little more money just to get a new distributor if the PIP is gone but it's WAY simpler to just swap out the whole unit.
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broncojunkie (12-13-2014)
12-13-2014, 12:17 AM
#14
You need an LED test light. a regular test light won't flash fast enough. You hook one end to power, the other end to coil neg. Crank the motor from the solenoid and the light should flash if the PIP is grounding.
The no spark is most likely the PIP if the coil is good. It's a little more money just to get a new distributor if the PIP is gone but it's WAY simpler to just swap out the whole unit.
The no spark is most likely the PIP if the coil is good. It's a little more money just to get a new distributor if the PIP is gone but it's WAY simpler to just swap out the whole unit.
12-13-2014, 03:33 PM
#16
Senior Member
You can make a led tester. Radio Shack has the led and they`re cheap and easy to make. I picked a led up from there and just need to build it. I`m pretty sure you need one with a resister in it.
12-13-2014, 04:35 PM
#17
Ok. I finally got the damn ignition module off. It was a pain because of where its located and the wiring harness was blocking my access to the bottom screw on the heat sink. I didn't have socket small enough to access the two bolts holding the icm to the heat sink. I had the right size socket, but it wouldn't fit in the hole. Found out the parts store sells a tool, but they were out of stock. Anyway, took the icm to them. They bench tested it and it passed.
Just for the heck of it, I put it all back together and checked for spark again. No spark and the starter keeps turning until you cut power at the battery. I guess I'll have to figure out what's causing that before I can even address the main issue. I'm literally to the point where I'm about to roll this thing over the hill. I had to pick up an engine block in my new Ford Edge today. Ridiculous.
Just for the heck of it, I put it all back together and checked for spark again. No spark and the starter keeps turning until you cut power at the battery. I guess I'll have to figure out what's causing that before I can even address the main issue. I'm literally to the point where I'm about to roll this thing over the hill. I had to pick up an engine block in my new Ford Edge today. Ridiculous.
12-13-2014, 05:36 PM
#20
