Engine Build
03-21-2015, 08:36 AM
#11
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A heat tab is a small usually washer shaped heat sensor filled with low temp melt solder. It is used by rebuilders to mounter overheating in rebuilt engines
so they can get out of a warrenty. It will be glued on the outside of the block or heads usely in a freeze plug are some place it can get hot fast like by the exhaust manifolds. "Warrenty void if removed" well be stamped on it. What this tells you about the engine with one of these present is that it is not going to be rebuildable because it is bored over size already. Also I would defiantly look for a roller cam engine as well. This coming from someone that machines heads and bores blocks everyday. Having done it 25 years.
so they can get out of a warrenty. It will be glued on the outside of the block or heads usely in a freeze plug are some place it can get hot fast like by the exhaust manifolds. "Warrenty void if removed" well be stamped on it. What this tells you about the engine with one of these present is that it is not going to be rebuildable because it is bored over size already. Also I would defiantly look for a roller cam engine as well. This coming from someone that machines heads and bores blocks everyday. Having done it 25 years.
03-21-2015, 02:27 PM
#12
Maybe to many trucks?
03-22-2015, 12:50 PM
#13
Okay, I'm not trying to fool anyone... I have never done anything with the internals of an engine... I've done just about everything else on my truck or someone else's... I want to build a motor, i'm not rich but im not broke and I don't have much experience in engine building if any... But i'm a fast learner. What is the way to acquire needed parts and knowledge... should I just pull a motor from the junkyard and pull it apart to see how everything works or are there books or stuff on it? I gotta start somewhere because eventually id love to build my own motor brand new w/ tranny so I can totally say I built my truck... I've already done everything short of paint it... no need to cover that immaculate original paint but I want some more horses under the hood. Thanks fellas!
and yes I've skimmed threads but some of that **** is over my head.
and yes I've skimmed threads but some of that **** is over my head.
Some parts for the full build minus rods.
Comp cams full high energy cam kit - K66-237-4 MPN
Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers - S4002-7 MPN
Fel-Pro Head Gasket - 1024 PN
Fel-Pro Intake and Exhaust Gaskets set
Melling Valves - Intake V1505 - Exhaust V1504
ARP Head Studs
Ford Forged Crank
Forged Pistons W/ CR Bump to 9:1 Stock bore
Btw I run a 66mm turbo on my 300. Its very peppy and tbh fast.
If you think of the rebuild like a little lego project if you will. That your taking apart to relocate. Its not that much of a daunting task. Theres just steps and a few extra processes involved. Keep it simple in terms of thought.
Like the other users said find a donor thats OEM pretty much. The walls on the 300 are crazy thick. Like holy **** ford made a tank of a block there. Ive seen piston go to .60 or is it 0.060. Any who. You have lots of room for a semi janky motor to be built right. If its efi, 3 angle valve job with a good porting. And find a way to bore or increase the overall size of the throttle body. Thats quite restricted anyways imho.
Theres a user over on fordsix that has a 450+ hp all motor 300. Its sick xD
Cheers
Last edited by cyrusmaintea; 03-22-2015 at 12:52 PM.
04-07-2015, 02:22 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hey there buddy. I have the 300 I6 also. In tge future I plan on building the lower end. Rods, pistons, and find one of them OEM ford forged cranks.
Some parts for the full build minus rods.
Comp cams full high energy cam kit - K66-237-4 MPN
Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers - S4002-7 MPN
Fel-Pro Head Gasket - 1024 PN
Fel-Pro Intake and Exhaust Gaskets set
Melling Valves - Intake V1505 - Exhaust V1504
ARP Head Studs
Ford Forged Crank
Forged Pistons W/ CR Bump to 9:1 Stock bore
Btw I run a 66mm turbo on my 300. Its very peppy and tbh fast.
If you think of the rebuild like a little lego project if you will. That your taking apart to relocate. Its not that much of a daunting task. Theres just steps and a few extra processes involved. Keep it simple in terms of thought.
Like the other users said find a donor thats OEM pretty much. The walls on the 300 are crazy thick. Like holy **** ford made a tank of a block there. Ive seen piston go to .60 or is it 0.060. Any who. You have lots of room for a semi janky motor to be built right. If its efi, 3 angle valve job with a good porting. And find a way to bore or increase the overall size of the throttle body. Thats quite restricted anyways imho.
Theres a user over on fordsix that has a 450+ hp all motor 300. Its sick xD
Cheers
Some parts for the full build minus rods.
Comp cams full high energy cam kit - K66-237-4 MPN
Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers - S4002-7 MPN
Fel-Pro Head Gasket - 1024 PN
Fel-Pro Intake and Exhaust Gaskets set
Melling Valves - Intake V1505 - Exhaust V1504
ARP Head Studs
Ford Forged Crank
Forged Pistons W/ CR Bump to 9:1 Stock bore
Btw I run a 66mm turbo on my 300. Its very peppy and tbh fast.
If you think of the rebuild like a little lego project if you will. That your taking apart to relocate. Its not that much of a daunting task. Theres just steps and a few extra processes involved. Keep it simple in terms of thought.
Like the other users said find a donor thats OEM pretty much. The walls on the 300 are crazy thick. Like holy **** ford made a tank of a block there. Ive seen piston go to .60 or is it 0.060. Any who. You have lots of room for a semi janky motor to be built right. If its efi, 3 angle valve job with a good porting. And find a way to bore or increase the overall size of the throttle body. Thats quite restricted anyways imho.
Theres a user over on fordsix that has a 450+ hp all motor 300. Its sick xD
Cheers
04-09-2015, 07:23 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
