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EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor

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Old 06-06-2009, 11:36 PM
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Default EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor

Hello all it has been a while. My 89 302 failed inspection and the diagnostics (Firestone) said my EGR valve was stuck and the sensor is bad. Also, I will need a new Caltalytic converter put on the eleiminate the knocking noise (don't know what is knocking!!!). Anyways, the cost is around $1100 for it all. Or simply around $550 for the EGR system and the same for the Converter replacement. My question is this, how hard is it to replace the EGR valve and sensor. I know they are not cheap in cost for the part. My truck failed last year as well and I paid the same amout to replace the tube (only) that goes to the valve thinking I was replacing the entire system. I believe I got . Nonetheless, with the replacement there was a little adjustment of the idle and timing and then it passed inspection. I do believe the EGR may be bad, the sensor as well. Again I ask, it seems to be a matter of screw OFF, then screw ON for the valve and sensor. I know there may be some need to adjust the timing and idle, should that be done professionally? Finally, I have a IAC restrictor gasket on because I had "hanging" RPM's while shifting, would that affect the emmisions. The catalytic converter is something I know I have to have done elsewhere so I won't bother with any questions on it. Thanks.
Old 06-07-2009, 11:50 PM
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:09 AM
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You're right about the EVP sensor itself. It's a quick and easy fix. I replaced mine for about $30. The EGR valve itself is a little pricier and a little bit more difficult because it's in a kind of cramped position, but still a simple thing to replace. People here have said junk yard versions are worth the savings and generally work well.
Remove the vacuum line.
Remove the nut holding it to the expensive tube you replaced.
Remove the two bolts holding it on the intake manifold.

Get a new EGR gasket...the old ones burn up/fall apart too easily.

Are you 100% sure both are broken?
EVP sensor can be tested with ohm meter.
EGR valve can be tested by applying a vacuum to the vac port. If it holds the vacuum it probably works fine.

Sorry to hear about the expensive crap. Sucks when you pay good money for work and it doesn't pan out.

Don't know much about IAC restrictors.
Old 06-08-2009, 08:29 AM
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To answer yor quesstion as to whether or not I KNOW they are bad, NO I dont't really know, but was told from the mechanics at Firestone it was why I failed inspection. I looked under my hood and noticed the valve looked to have been used (having the part numbers written by a yellow marker) and it looked a little old. I know for a fact it wasn't replaced NEW with my expensive tube as I thought. Like I said, unfortunately I wouldn't have known the difference at the time. My other problem is I don't really trust Firestone as I use to. I sometimes get a second opinion after going there and come out with a different diagnosis, or they "find" symptoms I know I just fixed. I really havne't found a good mechanic since my last one left for Canada.



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