EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) question
08-12-2012, 09:24 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) question
Hello. First post. "95 F-150 4.9 e4od rwd 129,000 miles.
I've owned this truck for 8 years, bought it with 105,000 miles. Up until a couple of months ago it always started, idled, shifted and run good. Used no oil between changes. Got 18.5 mpg on the highway.
Started shifting crazy and running really bad at high speed. Felt like bucking, missing, surging and the like. Sometimes ran and shifted fine.
Followed "Just call me Sean"s instructions and have been taking the codes. Most were for the egr stuff. Replaced the egr and the evp with Ford oem parts.
Question #1. If nothing happens when I ground pin #33 (from the backside) on the evr while the engine is running (idling) does that confirm that the evr is bad and not sending vacuum to the egr?
Between the pins I get 39 ohms of resistance which is good. When back probed with the key on (engine off) I get battery voltage, also good. And I also get running code 332- EGR valve opening not detected.
KOEO I mostly get 558-EVR circuit failure and once in a while 622.
I know it all looks like a failed evr and I'm just looking for confirmation that grounding pin#33 should open the egr and effect idle and probably kill engine.
Question #2. I always get KOEO cont. code 512-KAM test failure. What does that mean? I clear the codes every time I read them. I know what the letters KAM stand for but I don't understand it. Can anyone put it in understandable language for me?
By the way, thanks for a great forum. I got tons of useful information from you all these last couple of months.
I've owned this truck for 8 years, bought it with 105,000 miles. Up until a couple of months ago it always started, idled, shifted and run good. Used no oil between changes. Got 18.5 mpg on the highway.
Started shifting crazy and running really bad at high speed. Felt like bucking, missing, surging and the like. Sometimes ran and shifted fine.
Followed "Just call me Sean"s instructions and have been taking the codes. Most were for the egr stuff. Replaced the egr and the evp with Ford oem parts.
Question #1. If nothing happens when I ground pin #33 (from the backside) on the evr while the engine is running (idling) does that confirm that the evr is bad and not sending vacuum to the egr?
Between the pins I get 39 ohms of resistance which is good. When back probed with the key on (engine off) I get battery voltage, also good. And I also get running code 332- EGR valve opening not detected.
KOEO I mostly get 558-EVR circuit failure and once in a while 622.
I know it all looks like a failed evr and I'm just looking for confirmation that grounding pin#33 should open the egr and effect idle and probably kill engine.
Question #2. I always get KOEO cont. code 512-KAM test failure. What does that mean? I clear the codes every time I read them. I know what the letters KAM stand for but I don't understand it. Can anyone put it in understandable language for me?
By the way, thanks for a great forum. I got tons of useful information from you all these last couple of months.
08-12-2012, 03:45 PM
#2
It's not much help, but the glossary definition in the back of my code reader manual lists KAM as Keep Alive Memory. Battery power memory locations in computer used to store failure codes and some diagnostic parameters.
512-KAM = Keep Alive Memory(KAM) test failure.
ETA: This link might help you cypher it out if you read everything they have to offer.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3
My truck is doing the same thing. I know for a fact that the vacuum reserve canister is in bad shape and needs to be replaced. Further ... the vacuum diagram on the motor that they recently swapped into my truck calls for two instead of one.
I'm gonna answer that question first to make sure that the vacuum system is right before delving into the electricals.
512-KAM = Keep Alive Memory(KAM) test failure.
ETA: This link might help you cypher it out if you read everything they have to offer.
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3
My truck is doing the same thing. I know for a fact that the vacuum reserve canister is in bad shape and needs to be replaced. Further ... the vacuum diagram on the motor that they recently swapped into my truck calls for two instead of one.
I'm gonna answer that question first to make sure that the vacuum system is right before delving into the electricals.
Last edited by LobstahClaw; 08-12-2012 at 04:02 PM. Reason: Clarification
08-13-2012, 03:32 PM
#3
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Question #1. I believe so. See Link :http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=43
Make sure Vac lines are connected to the correct ports on the EVR. Also the the Vac line "To" the EVR has vacuum at idle to begin with.
Question #2. 512. Almost always a pooched ECU. The "KAM" is stored in the ROM of your ECU. This is where operation/drive strategies are stored & modified based of your driving habits. It is no longer accessible. When this occurs, your ECU defaults to "Failsafe" allowing the engine to run, but that's about it.
ECU is no longer adjusting air to fuel trim/ assisting timing advance/ assisting in synchronizing transmission shifts to load variances.
Make sure Vac lines are connected to the correct ports on the EVR. Also the the Vac line "To" the EVR has vacuum at idle to begin with.
Question #2. 512. Almost always a pooched ECU. The "KAM" is stored in the ROM of your ECU. This is where operation/drive strategies are stored & modified based of your driving habits. It is no longer accessible. When this occurs, your ECU defaults to "Failsafe" allowing the engine to run, but that's about it.
ECU is no longer adjusting air to fuel trim/ assisting timing advance/ assisting in synchronizing transmission shifts to load variances.
08-13-2012, 07:15 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Ymeski56. Does this mean that whatever I fix according to cel codes it won't matter? And will just run on a default setting? Sounds like it will run but run in an inefficiently manner. Is that right?
What is the best source for an ECU? Junkyard? Auto parts store? Ford OEM?
Why would an ECU fail with only 129,000 miles?
By the way, this truck started life as a county vehicle (Hillsboro county, Florida [Tampa]) and ran on LNG.
What is the best source for an ECU? Junkyard? Auto parts store? Ford OEM?
Why would an ECU fail with only 129,000 miles?
By the way, this truck started life as a county vehicle (Hillsboro county, Florida [Tampa]) and ran on LNG.
08-13-2012, 08:18 PM
#5
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Your getting KOER codes as well as KOER's, but then the when it comes time for continuos memory you get 512?
Yes, failsafe mode is designed to get you home, sometimes referred to as "Limp home mode".
Can find used, very reasonably at bone yards. Reconditioned ordered at auto parts stores & online sources.
Sometimes they just fail. Although considered a life of vehicle part. Usually, if you crack the case you will find a burnt circuit board component. They aren't fond of exposure to high temperatures or moisture, which is why they are located in the cab rather than the engine compartment.
Yes, failsafe mode is designed to get you home, sometimes referred to as "Limp home mode".
Can find used, very reasonably at bone yards. Reconditioned ordered at auto parts stores & online sources.
Sometimes they just fail. Although considered a life of vehicle part. Usually, if you crack the case you will find a burnt circuit board component. They aren't fond of exposure to high temperatures or moisture, which is why they are located in the cab rather than the engine compartment.
08-14-2012, 06:30 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
[QUOTE=ymeski56;1957917]Your getting KOER codes as well as KOER's, but then the when it comes time for continuos memory you get 512
I've been getting:
KOEO- 558 EVR circuit failure
Cont.- 512 eec battery powered KAM test failure
KOER- 332 EGR valve opening not detected
I've replaced the egr and it's position sensor with Motorcraft oem parts and I have a Motorcraft EVR on the way. I've tested all the vacuum lines and the tomato can looking vacuum can. Checked and put dielectric grease on all the electrical connections I could find. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor just a couple thousand miles old.
It's running OK now and I think it will improve even further with the new EVR installed. Thinking that a functioning EGR system with oem parts should help smooth things out.
If, after the (hopefully successful) Motorcraft evr installation, I still get the Cont. code 512, is it pretty much a lock that the ECU is dead? Is there any way to confirm this or is the 512 code the proof?
Also, I read here that the ECU is located behind the drivers kick panel and secured on the engine bay side of the firewall with a small bolt. Remove bolt and pull the ECU out. Is this correct?
Thanks again for your time and answers.
I've been getting:
KOEO- 558 EVR circuit failure
Cont.- 512 eec battery powered KAM test failure
KOER- 332 EGR valve opening not detected
I've replaced the egr and it's position sensor with Motorcraft oem parts and I have a Motorcraft EVR on the way. I've tested all the vacuum lines and the tomato can looking vacuum can. Checked and put dielectric grease on all the electrical connections I could find. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor just a couple thousand miles old.
It's running OK now and I think it will improve even further with the new EVR installed. Thinking that a functioning EGR system with oem parts should help smooth things out.
If, after the (hopefully successful) Motorcraft evr installation, I still get the Cont. code 512, is it pretty much a lock that the ECU is dead? Is there any way to confirm this or is the 512 code the proof?
Also, I read here that the ECU is located behind the drivers kick panel and secured on the engine bay side of the firewall with a small bolt. Remove bolt and pull the ECU out. Is this correct?
Thanks again for your time and answers.
08-14-2012, 03:21 PM
#7
Not to confuse the issue but ....
I wonder if it would be possible to access an open port on the intake then temporarily rig up a vacuum guage on the dash ?
The reason i say that, is that it seems to be a pretty common problem for motors to buck & hesitate at speeds above 40 or going up a hill.
If you could verify that the problems occured during a time of low vacuum it would prove cause & effect.
There must be a reason for why Ford added a vacuum reserve can(s). It's probably to carry you through periods of normal operation when there isn't sufficient vacuum to run the control solonoids.
Let's say that for whatever reason there's on and off insufficient vacuum ... it could make the EVR toggle & the EGR positioning sensor would start throwing codes or CEL's ?
Would that be a situation where the disgnostic just leads to confusion and has you chasing electrical problems ?
Forgive me ... i'm new to this and sometimes ask stupid questions.
I wonder if it would be possible to access an open port on the intake then temporarily rig up a vacuum guage on the dash ?
The reason i say that, is that it seems to be a pretty common problem for motors to buck & hesitate at speeds above 40 or going up a hill.
If you could verify that the problems occured during a time of low vacuum it would prove cause & effect.
There must be a reason for why Ford added a vacuum reserve can(s). It's probably to carry you through periods of normal operation when there isn't sufficient vacuum to run the control solonoids.
Let's say that for whatever reason there's on and off insufficient vacuum ... it could make the EVR toggle & the EGR positioning sensor would start throwing codes or CEL's ?
Would that be a situation where the disgnostic just leads to confusion and has you chasing electrical problems ?
Forgive me ... i'm new to this and sometimes ask stupid questions.
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08-14-2012, 03:27 PM
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I believe the hot side to the EVR is always hot w/ key on, See if you're receiving current on the hot lead. You may have a broken wire on the hot side.
"Circuit failure" means just that. A failure for a circuit to complete. Not necessarily the component itself.
Did you check for Vac to the EVR at idle & Vac hoses in & out are on the correct ports?
Take manifold Vac reading at idle & reading when someone increases RPM to something above 2K.
Yes. ECU slides out from engine side of firewall.
"Circuit failure" means just that. A failure for a circuit to complete. Not necessarily the component itself.
Did you check for Vac to the EVR at idle & Vac hoses in & out are on the correct ports?
Take manifold Vac reading at idle & reading when someone increases RPM to something above 2K.
Yes. ECU slides out from engine side of firewall.
Last edited by ymeski56; 08-14-2012 at 03:36 PM.
08-14-2012, 07:49 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Just got the Ford EVR in the mail, beautiful stock piece. Won't have a chance to install until later tomorrow. As stated earlier I checked the resistance between the pins on the old EVR, good. And had battery voltage on the feed side.
Although I checked for leaking vacuum lines, don't think I checked for feed vacuum at idle at the EVR. Will check that first thing. And, vacuum reservoir can is in good shape and holds vacuum.
I could probably run a long hose to the cab and attach my Mighty Vac hand held vacuum pump with gauge to check engine vacuum at speed, good idea, thanks for the idea.
I'll get back to you all first chance I get.
Although I checked for leaking vacuum lines, don't think I checked for feed vacuum at idle at the EVR. Will check that first thing. And, vacuum reservoir can is in good shape and holds vacuum.
I could probably run a long hose to the cab and attach my Mighty Vac hand held vacuum pump with gauge to check engine vacuum at speed, good idea, thanks for the idea.
I'll get back to you all first chance I get.
08-15-2012, 10:01 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Put the oem EVR in, 10 mile test ride, bucked and slight surge-not real bad, took codes.
KOEO: 622 #2 shift solenoid
Cont.: 322 EGR not opening
KOER: 322
Looks like there is no vacuum getting to the EVR. 20" of vacuum when running. Vacuum getting to the vacuum reservoir. Reservoir is holding vacuum but no vacuum leaving the reservoir to the EVR. All vacuum lines doubled checked good.
I let the motor run plenty long enough, and revved it, to vacuum out the reservoir. The "out" nipple on the reservoir never drew vacuum. I then used the hand pump to vacuum the reservoir all the way passed 25" of vacuum. Still no vacuum at the "out" nipple on the reservoir. The out nipple draws vacuum to the EVR.
Looks to me that the reservoir definitely holds vacuum but there must be a check valve in the reservoir that is not allowing vacuum to leave the reservoir and reach the EVR. That explains why the EVR doesn't open and allow vacuum to the EGR when I grounded out the EVR.
I'm guessing the computer is sending the ground signal to the EVR but since there is no vacuum present at the EVR no vacuum is reaching the EGR. Hence the 332 code-EGR not opening.
Question: When the reservoir is vacuumed out, shouldn't vacuum be present at the nipple going to the EVR? And if it's not, like mine, can the check valve in the reservoir be repaired or replaced?
KOEO: 622 #2 shift solenoid
Cont.: 322 EGR not opening
KOER: 322
Looks like there is no vacuum getting to the EVR. 20" of vacuum when running. Vacuum getting to the vacuum reservoir. Reservoir is holding vacuum but no vacuum leaving the reservoir to the EVR. All vacuum lines doubled checked good.
I let the motor run plenty long enough, and revved it, to vacuum out the reservoir. The "out" nipple on the reservoir never drew vacuum. I then used the hand pump to vacuum the reservoir all the way passed 25" of vacuum. Still no vacuum at the "out" nipple on the reservoir. The out nipple draws vacuum to the EVR.
Looks to me that the reservoir definitely holds vacuum but there must be a check valve in the reservoir that is not allowing vacuum to leave the reservoir and reach the EVR. That explains why the EVR doesn't open and allow vacuum to the EGR when I grounded out the EVR.
I'm guessing the computer is sending the ground signal to the EVR but since there is no vacuum present at the EVR no vacuum is reaching the EGR. Hence the 332 code-EGR not opening.
Question: When the reservoir is vacuumed out, shouldn't vacuum be present at the nipple going to the EVR? And if it's not, like mine, can the check valve in the reservoir be repaired or replaced?
