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EGR Tube Replacement

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Old 10-26-2008, 02:46 PM
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Default EGR Tube Replacement

My 91 I6 has a rusted EGR Tube. I can't find a replacement anywhere.



Previous owner was nice enough to weld a bolt (or something) in the exhaust port. This may make the search for a stock replacement futile anyway.

Suggestions welcome, but I'm thinking that I may wind up cutting out the bolt, welding in some kind of standard fitting, and trying to make something like a gas line from home depot work.

Moronic?
Old 10-26-2008, 03:21 PM
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Does it have driveability issues? I would just leave it alone unless its hindering your driving performance. I'm guessing the check engine light is on and its annoying to look at. My 89 bronco II would do that untill I hand grenaded the 2.9 it was the worst ford I ever owned. Off topic. I replaced the 108k mile 2.9 with a new long block from ford. It ran like a champ for about a week till the trans. started to lose overdrive and also loud noises started coming from the transfer case. I was never so happy as the day I traded that p.o.s. in on a 94 bronco full size.
Old 10-26-2008, 03:56 PM
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Driveability is OK. Seems a little short on power. No CEL....which may be another issue that I'll deal with later.

Mileage is terrible though and the exhaust definitely smells rich.
Old 10-26-2008, 04:14 PM
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If your EGR system is still working - can see where the engine management system might be going nuts. Would be pulling in air when oxygen-depleted exhaust gas is expected.

Eh, at any rate - flexible natural gas tubing may be an option - get tubing large enough to slip over the pipe, cut the existing pipe so to get the bolt out and an even rim on both ends, insert the tubing, then crimp the tubing down with a couple of radiator hose clamps. Have doubts about how long this fix would work.

Don't know if a muffler shop would have tubing that small where they could bend and weld a section in? Wonder if electrical EMT (thin-wall) conduit would be a suitable substitute?

Not sure if this is a good option - but perhaps remove the pipe where it enters the EGR valve, and just cap the inlet to the valve?? The valve would still be free to move, but wouldn't be admitting any air. Have heard different stories on engine performance when the EGR is disabled in this manner - perhaps other members can offer advice here.
Old 10-26-2008, 07:52 PM
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230258541010 (type this in at ebay) in the regular search area
Old 10-26-2008, 07:59 PM
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I see that it may be a different year, I found other ones from around $8 if you had a 5.0/5.8 but you can probably find one in a few weeks for less than 20 on ebay.
Old 10-26-2008, 10:24 PM
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I thought you said this was the smog tube, not the EGR tube. The smog tube won't cause a check engine light, but the EGR tube should. Try exhaust shops, they should have what's needed to fix this. Someone has to carry it, this part is a smog issue and needs to be working if you have smog inspections. You can always call the dealer.
Old 10-27-2008, 12:00 AM
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Yeah....I'm an idiot. This is the smog tube. It runs past where the EGR tube terminates into the exhaust manifold and is pretty much out of sight unless you look well enough. It wasn't until I started to remove it that I realized my mistake.

I'm going to cruise in to a muffler shop to see what they suggest for easily reconnecting the smog pump (live in California...gotta take care of this to get smog/registration done).

I'm still thinking that the truck is running a little rich; trying to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge to test out my regulator.

Sorry about the goose chase.
Old 10-27-2008, 12:22 AM
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Pull the vacuum from the regulator with the truck running. If the idle picks up, it's working.



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