egr removal
#1
egr removal
I cant seem to find any theads telling much. I have a 94 2wd with a 5.0
the cross over tube was broken so i bought all the parts from rjm to do the egr removal. is there a how to on removing it? so far i have the egr valve off and the driver side of the tube unbolted. a nice how too would really help.
thanks for all your help
tony
the cross over tube was broken so i bought all the parts from rjm to do the egr removal. is there a how to on removing it? so far i have the egr valve off and the driver side of the tube unbolted. a nice how too would really help.
thanks for all your help
tony
#2
Senior Member
What did your kit contain? There should be a block-off plate for the intake manifold where the EGR exhausts into it, another plate or plug for the exhaust where the inlet tube gets exhaust gases, and some of those kits include a resistor to try to fool the computer into thinking that the EGR is still there.
You also have a solenoid that controls EGR vacuum, which will need to be dealt with, and the restistors typically don't work well - they may keep the CEL from coming on, but the computer can't properly mix air/fuel (making the engine run worse than before).
It seems that in order to do this right, you need an aftermarket tuning system that will allow you to remove the EGR function completely. Even if you can make this work, you're not going to pass a smog test. If you have to get your truck inspected to renew license, most shops will not pass it if they notice the EGR is gone.
You also have a solenoid that controls EGR vacuum, which will need to be dealt with, and the restistors typically don't work well - they may keep the CEL from coming on, but the computer can't properly mix air/fuel (making the engine run worse than before).
It seems that in order to do this right, you need an aftermarket tuning system that will allow you to remove the EGR function completely. Even if you can make this work, you're not going to pass a smog test. If you have to get your truck inspected to renew license, most shops will not pass it if they notice the EGR is gone.
#3
dont have emissions or smog... the kit contains a block off plate, 2 bolts for the heads to block off the holes in the back of the head and then a 3/4" brass plug that i cant seem to figure where it goes. there is a big hole in the manifold where i removed the egr tube, but it is just a hair smaller than the plug. and im not sure what to do with the tube that runs down to the cat that is now open. it did come with the plug to trick ecu as well.
Last edited by tonylittell; 01-10-2009 at 03:13 PM.
#4
We'd do it
iTrader: (1)
The brass plug would most likely have to be driven into the manifold. It's slightly larger than the hole for a tight fit. The hole in the cat will have to be welded shut, or you can try crushing the tube and bending it over. You should leave the EGR control solenoid plugged in and keep vacuum to it but cap off the line that goes to the EGR valve. That way the computer will still think the control solenoid is working, otherwise you will get a code for that and the check engine light may stay on. The plug should take care of the EVP if it works.
#5
Senior Member
I've known several guys who have tried those "egr eliminators" which plug into the EVP connector. No one has had any luck with them working. They have a resistor in them, giving the computer a constant value that is 'within limits' to keep the CEL off, but it doesn't flucuate like the evp signal should. This thing will likely cause rich and lean conditions, and run like crap...
Hopefully what you have is something better than what I've seen in the past.
Are you removing all of the EGR components because it was not working?
Hopefully what you have is something better than what I've seen in the past.
Are you removing all of the EGR components because it was not working?
#6
The brass plug would most likely have to be driven into the manifold. It's slightly larger than the hole for a tight fit. The hole in the cat will have to be welded shut, or you can try crushing the tube and bending it over. You should leave the EGR control solenoid plugged in and keep vacuum to it but cap off the line that goes to the EGR valve. That way the computer will still think the control solenoid is working, otherwise you will get a code for that and the check engine light may stay on. The plug should take care of the EVP if it works.
why would the plug have to be "driven" in? the maniflod is threaded as is the plug....
#7
well i am thinking of just putting everything back if i can find the valve thing that sits on the crossover tube behind the heads.... i got the tube off and its perfect. but the valve or solinoid that screws onto the crossover tube was broken off of the nut that bolts it onto the tube. Im also going to have to find the tube that goes from the manifold to the egr as it broke in half as i was removing it. and i am going to need all of the rubber hoses (red,yellow/green and black) that connect all over the place as they were breaking in half as i was removing everything
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#8
Senior Member
I'm a bit confused here... It sounds like the part that was originally failed was part of the thermactor (smog pump) plumbing on the back of the heads. Unless the EGR design changed a lot between 91 and 94.
You can get vacuum lines at your local auto parts store - If you get the silicon lines they will cost more but last a lot longer.
The EGR inlet tube (just to make sure we're on the same page) running from the rear area of the lower intake manifold to the EGR valve is broken? That's gonna be tougher to find. It tends to be a dealer part, and I've seen them on eBay now and then for about $20-30.
If you have the plugs for the back of the heads, you can lose the smog pump by plugging the hole left by the tube running to the catalytic converter. You could leave the actual pump on the front of the motor for now, or replace it with an idler pulley (again, you can find them on eBay for about $50), or get a shorter serpentine belt to omit that thing all together.
I'm not trying to talk you out of getting rid of the EGR - it's just that I've never known anyone to have good results from it without spending several hundred bucks on a tunable chip or engine management system. It's not really a 'take it off and everyone is happy' sort of simple thing.
You can get vacuum lines at your local auto parts store - If you get the silicon lines they will cost more but last a lot longer.
The EGR inlet tube (just to make sure we're on the same page) running from the rear area of the lower intake manifold to the EGR valve is broken? That's gonna be tougher to find. It tends to be a dealer part, and I've seen them on eBay now and then for about $20-30.
If you have the plugs for the back of the heads, you can lose the smog pump by plugging the hole left by the tube running to the catalytic converter. You could leave the actual pump on the front of the motor for now, or replace it with an idler pulley (again, you can find them on eBay for about $50), or get a shorter serpentine belt to omit that thing all together.
I'm not trying to talk you out of getting rid of the EGR - it's just that I've never known anyone to have good results from it without spending several hundred bucks on a tunable chip or engine management system. It's not really a 'take it off and everyone is happy' sort of simple thing.