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Old 05-19-2010, 07:10 PM   #1
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Default Egr Problems

hey everyone, i have a 92 f150 5.0. and have had nothing but trouble with the egr.
I wanna do away with it totally, i made a Egr restrictor plate but i aint done nothing to the truck yet. i never done this before and i need some help and details on everything i need to do thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:32 AM   #2
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IMO, You need to fix your problem, not eliminate the EGR system. I had EGR issues......code 332(insufficient flow) for MONTHS. Drove me nuts. Checked everything. Replaced EGR and sensor 3 times, even though I KNEW they were fine. I've since found you can check each component in the EGR system very easily.
You didn't specify if you had codes, but when you say you've had nothing but trouble with EGR, I'm assuming you've got a code of some sort. I couldn't tell you how this system works, but I've found that EGR's are rarely the problem. There's one plastic vacuum line from the EGR to the EGR vacuum.....check EVERY inch! Mine was melted under the protective wrap in two places. I also had to replace the EGR Vacuum (I had no vacuum to EGR @2K RPM). The only other thing to check is the sensor on top of the EGR. Easily checked with a voltmeter.
Post codes/symptoms and someone here will be able to help.
As stated above, just my opinion.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:24 AM   #3
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IMO, You need to fix your problem, not eliminate the EGR system. I had EGR issues......code 332(insufficient flow) for MONTHS. Drove me nuts. Checked everything. Replaced EGR and sensor 3 times, even though I KNEW they were fine. I've since found you can check each component in the EGR system very easily.
You didn't specify if you had codes, but when you say you've had nothing but trouble with EGR, I'm assuming you've got a code of some sort. I couldn't tell you how this system works, but I've found that EGR's are rarely the problem. There's one plastic vacuum line from the EGR to the EGR vacuum.....check EVERY inch! Mine was melted under the protective wrap in two places. I also had to replace the EGR Vacuum (I had no vacuum to EGR @2K RPM). The only other thing to check is the sensor on top of the EGR. Easily checked with a voltmeter.
Post codes/symptoms and someone here will be able to help.
As stated above, just my opinion.
Your attempting to eliminate an integrated system. It's not like an Appendix, that gets removed because "you were in the neighborhood anyway"! DaKeen became an ol' EGR pro in just one thread! You have a code. Each code will indicate different things. If you do eliminate the EGR, please mention that in future posts. It will be important for those that attempt to help you, & personally, I don't bother w/ truck's after that Mod: Egr restrictor plate
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:15 PM   #4
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Ok guys i should of posted my codes, Im sorry.

here they are.....

#2- egr/dpfe signal low
#1- egr valve not opening
#1- egr/evp voltage above closed limit.

In the past 6 months i have put 2 new erg valve's, 2 new egr evp's and 1 new egr dpfe. Nothing has fixed the problem i had spend almost 700.00 dollars and had auto shops do nothing but lie. i live in a small town with no GOOD auto shops.

I have had some people say the plate will do wonders and then some not so sure. ANY help would be great. i wanna add to my check engine light was comeing on and going off when i would give the truck gas the light would come on then when i let off the gas it would go off. now its staying on it will not go off........


thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:24 PM   #5
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Crap! Now we gotta help him actually fix it!!! Do you have the actual code #'s? "JCMS" taught me not to rely on the code definitions provided/ just the #'s! The definitions may very dependent on source. I "know" my definition source is accurate.
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:27 PM   #6
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yes the codes numbers are....

#2- 327
#1- 332
#1- 334
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:09 PM   #7
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yes the codes numbers are....

#2- 327
#1- 332
#1- 334
Nobody want's to deal w/ this? Sorry, got an inspection I have to deal w/ at the moment, I'll go over it this evening if nobody else gets to it. I won't leave ya twistin in the wind! Inspect every inch of the EGR Vac line to the EGR regulator in the mean time. On that Vac hose coming from the EGR regulator to the EGR Valve, there should no vacuum at warm idle & full vac at, say 2K rpm.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:05 PM   #8
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UPDATE

So i went ahead and put the plate on the egr i did drill one 1/8'' hole in it. and i left the line on the egr valve. now my engine light comes on and off if i give the truck gas the light comes on if i let off the gas it goes off, and it seems to be running better. and as far as the valcum line it looks like a pain to get to????????
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:53 AM   #9
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If by a "pain to get to" you mean taking 5 minutes to check 3 feet of line to try and solve your problem, then yes, it was a HUGE pain!!
And since I fear you'll be "twistin' in the wind" waiting for help now that you've chosen to put the plate on, may I make a suggestion:
If your light comes on when you give it gas and goes off when you don't, perhaps you should NOT give it gas? I'm SURE this will work as well as that plate, if not better.
Good Luck

Last edited by daKeed; 05-22-2010 at 12:55 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:34 AM   #10
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DAKEED if your going to be rude then dont post nothing, I have never messed around with a egr there are other wires running with it and it runs under my intake manifold. i did think people posted to ask for help RIGHT? And i wont be hangin in the wind as the truck im working on is just a kick around farm truck/work truck, so i could care less about ur 2 cents. And alot of people sure like that plate and the truck is running better.

OR BETTER IDEA ILL GO TO THE CLERKS OFFICE AND JUNK IT FOR $1 IS THAT A BETTER IDEA?
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:52 AM   #11
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DAKEED if your going to be rude then dont post nothing, I have never messed around with a egr there are other wires running with it and it runs under my intake manifold. i did think people posted to ask for help RIGHT? And i wont be hangin in the wind as the truck im working on is just a kick around farm truck/work truck, so i could care less about ur 2 cents. And alot of people sure like that plate and the truck is running better.

OR BETTER IDEA ILL GO TO THE CLERKS OFFICE AND JUNK IT FOR $1 IS THAT A BETTER IDEA?
i dont mean to sound like a ***** when i myself dont know mucha about these vehicles, but when people are trying to help you and tell you in the mean time and you do IMO the opposite of what they say and then come back here and take it out on others who were trying to help you when you just said in the quote above that you know nothing about the egr and such. now you expect others that were trying to help you to help you after being an ahole to them? all i can say is good luck with that better luck figuring out the problem on your own.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:12 AM   #12
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Are these active codes, or Continuous memory codes? Did you disconnect the battery for 5 min. to clear the KAM memory after replacing the position sensor. Active codes mean the issue is occurring at that time. A continual memory code w/o being active also at the same time, could mean the ECU has locked out the sensors input. It sometimes does this when a sensor continues to input out of range. Even if the sensor is replaced, it may continue to ignore it for 40- 80 successfully completed warm-up cycles, unless you clear and allow the KAM (Kept addaptive Memory) to rebuild again, but now, it will be w/ all sensor input once again. The Light comes on after the truck reaches normal operating temp? Checked Vac at hose at 2K RPM? Also, the first time I removed & cleaned my EGR, I didn't clean the portways on the intake where it mounts. They were 70% blocked w/ deposits. Also. All KOEO codes should be dealt w/ before even running KOER error code scans, as it many times skews the KOER results. Follow the correct method, or there will be madness! So lets start w/ KOEO codes first, & differentiate them from continuous memory codes. Forget the KOER codes for the moment. Assuming you're still interested in getting to run w/ the EGR system functional.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:17 AM   #13
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My bad F150Miller. I actually thought it was kind of funny, but I see your point. You did ask for help with the plate, not solving your EGR issues (even though myself and YM56 laid out the 4 things to check associated with the EGR system), so I should have left it alone after you installed the plate, because I have NO idea where you should go from here to get your CEL to stay off???
That being said, if I may offer an olive brach of peace: search threads for EGR issues and I'm sure you'll find the info you're looking for. I know I saw a few related to what you are doing when I was researching my issues. I chose to fix mine because, after what I read, it seemed easier than what you're trying to do, but that's not for me to decide for you.
Also, If you do decide to junk it for $1, I'll certainly give you .98....... since I've definitely already given you my .02 worth??
Again, Good Luck and post your results.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:54 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by daKeed View Post
My bad F150Miller. I actually thought it was kind of funny, but I see your point. You did ask for help with the plate, not solving your EGR issues (even though myself and YM56 laid out the 4 things to check associated with the EGR system), so I should have left it alone after you installed the plate, because I have NO idea where you should go from here to get your CEL to stay off???
That being said, if I may offer an olive brach of peace: search threads for EGR issues and I'm sure you'll find the info you're looking for. I know I saw a few related to what you are doing when I was researching my issues. I chose to fix mine because, after what I read, it seemed easier than what you're trying to do, but that's not for me to decide for you.
Also, If you do decide to junk it for $1, I'll certainly give you .98....... since I've definitely already given you my .02 worth??
Again, Good Luck and post your results.
When someone spends this much time & money on something w/ no improvement, their "sense of humor" is understandably a hard target! Hopefully, we can help him out. It's extremely hard to be humorous to someone looking at a $700. hole in his bank account & nothing to really show for it! (so far). Sometimes, I find it helpful to find a sparsely populated area , take a deep breath, and yell,"WTF!!!!"
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daKeed View Post
My bad F150Miller. I actually thought it was kind of funny, but I see your point. You did ask for help with the plate, not solving your EGR issues (even though myself and YM56 laid out the 4 things to check associated with the EGR system), so I should have left it alone after you installed the plate, because I have NO idea where you should go from here to get your CEL to stay off???
That being said, if I may offer an olive brach of peace: search threads for EGR issues and I'm sure you'll find the info you're looking for. I know I saw a few related to what you are doing when I was researching my issues. I chose to fix mine because, after what I read, it seemed easier than what you're trying to do, but that's not for me to decide for you.
Also, If you do decide to junk it for $1, I'll certainly give you .98....... since I've definitely already given you my .02 worth??
Again, Good Luck and post your results.


No hard feelings,
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:58 PM   #16
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Are these active codes, or Continuous memory codes? Did you disconnect the battery for 5 min. to clear the KAM memory after replacing the position sensor. Active codes mean the issue is occurring at that time. A continual memory code w/o being active also at the same time, could mean the ECU has locked out the sensors input. It sometimes does this when a sensor continues to input out of range. Even if the sensor is replaced, it may continue to ignore it for 40- 80 successfully completed warm-up cycles, unless you clear and allow the KAM (Kept addaptive Memory) to rebuild again, but now, it will be w/ all sensor input once again. The Light comes on after the truck reaches normal operating temp? Checked Vac at hose at 2K RPM? Also, the first time I removed & cleaned my EGR, I didn't clean the portways on the intake where it mounts. They were 70% blocked w/ deposits. Also. All KOEO codes should be dealt w/ before even running KOER error code scans, as it many times skews the KOER results. Follow the correct method, or there will be madness! So lets start w/ KOEO codes first, & differentiate them from continuous memory codes. Forget the KOER codes for the moment. Assuming you're still interested in getting to run w/ the EGR system functional.
YMESKI. Im not for sure about Continuous memory codes or active codes?.I did disconnect the battery after replacing everything i have replaced. The check engine light would come on as soon as i started the truck and would stay on, Yesterday i was messing around with it and went ahead and put the plate on to see if anything changed and it seemed to run better and the engine light would go on and off so i take it something changed?. Since then i have took the plate back off. The reason im trying to fix this is not because the engine light is on... Its because the truck dont have much power pulling hills and if i drive it around for a bit and shut it off when i go to restart it takes a min like it dont want to start. And the only codes im getting are all egr codes. The truck has got brand new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,button,fuel filter,about every sensor has been replaced and i did a seafoam treatment.....btw YMESKI im going to check the vacum line from the egr vavle later tonight in my garage. And THANK YOU for helping me out even tho this truck is a work truck and i have put $700 dollars for parts and repairs and nothing has changed, its kinda got me stressed out lol
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:04 PM   #17
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YMESKI. Im not for sure about Continuous memory codes or active codes?.I did disconnect the battery after replacing everything i have replaced. The check engine light would come on as soon as i started the truck and would stay on, Yesterday i was messing around with it and went ahead and put the plate on to see if anything changed and it seemed to run better and the engine light would go on and off so i take it something changed?. Since then i have took the plate back off. The reason im trying to fix this is not because the engine light is on... Its because the truck dont have much power pulling hills and if i drive it around for a bit and shut it off when i go to restart it takes a min like it dont want to start. And the only codes im getting are all egr codes. The truck has got brand new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,button,fuel filter,about every sensor has been replaced and i did a seafoam treatment.....btw YMESKI im going to check the vacum line from the egr vavle later tonight in my garage. And THANK YOU for helping me out even tho this truck is a work truck and i have put $700 dollars for parts and repairs and nothing has changed, its kinda got me stressed out lol
and yes im interested and getting it running with the egr system functional. or any way to stop the problems. the only reason i asked about the plate is cause i read so much about it helping out?
KOEO? i had the codes pulled at a part store and pulled at a delaer ship to they both had the same codes.
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:41 PM   #18
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and yes im interested and getting it running with the egr system functional. or any way to stop the problems. the only reason i asked about the plate is cause i read so much about it helping out?
KOEO? i had the codes pulled at a part store and pulled at a delaer ship to they both had the same codes.
KOEO stands for Key On Engine Off....thats about all i know...there is more detail in the sticky thread about pulling engine codes, maybe you should look there so you can pull your own codes to know if the stealership and auto store are wrong or to see if you pull any other codes on top of that
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:35 PM   #19
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KOEO stands for Key On Engine Off....thats about all i know...there is more detail in the sticky thread about pulling engine codes, maybe you should look there so you can pull your own codes to know if the stealership and auto store are wrong or to see if you pull any other codes on top of that
Yeps! durring the KOEO test, you'll get active error code #'s or a #11 or #111 (meaning passed/ no active codes) Then you'll get continuous memory codes. If you get no active code, but continuos memory codes, the KAM needs to be cleared. An active code means just that. The problem still exists. Many times, continuous memory codes w/o being listed as active anymore, means the ECU has locked out that sensors input from redundant inaccurate input from it (again, requiring clearing the KAM to rebuild the KAM, but now it will use all sensor input again)

Sensors only report if something is within or out of normal range. Once it is determined that the sensor it reporting correctly (replaced sensor), & that report is being received by the ECU (cleared the KAM), next you determine why it is reporting what it's reporting. A snafu would be a sensor wiring problem disrupting the signal, signal return path, or grounding issue.

Then we're looking for blockages (valve, mounting air pathways) leaks (VAC feed hoses, EGR valve diaphragm, EGR regulator membrane) or mechanical failure (valve or regulator not opening or closing correctly) Your EGR valve is new? Your running out of stuff to fix! 1 other snafu is the integrity of the ERG mine tube itself. Regulator: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43 & Position sensor: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=35 & other related stuff: http://www.scribd.com/doc/13500017/Ford-Bronco2-EECIV Knowledge, is what will keep your money the deepest in your pocket! You've already learned that their's plenty of people out there, that would like to see otherwise, that already know less about the subject than you do now! At least here, you know everybody's on your side!
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:33 PM   #20
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Well my buddy came in town. He spend 10 mins under hood and knew the problems THANK GOD!!!!.... he sprayed cleaner in the TB. And the big tube running from the egr well when i payed a autoshop to replace the egr valve they broke it!!!!!and the egr valcum line had afew cracks in it so we replaced it too. Everything is working great and back to normal. Thanks everyone for ur help......
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