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Old 05-19-2010, 08:10 PM   #1
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Default Egr Problems

hey everyone, i have a 92 f150 5.0. and have had nothing but trouble with the egr.
I wanna do away with it totally, i made a Egr restrictor plate but i aint done nothing to the truck yet. i never done this before and i need some help and details on everything i need to do thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:32 AM   #2
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IMO, You need to fix your problem, not eliminate the EGR system. I had EGR issues......code 332(insufficient flow) for MONTHS. Drove me nuts. Checked everything. Replaced EGR and sensor 3 times, even though I KNEW they were fine. I've since found you can check each component in the EGR system very easily.
You didn't specify if you had codes, but when you say you've had nothing but trouble with EGR, I'm assuming you've got a code of some sort. I couldn't tell you how this system works, but I've found that EGR's are rarely the problem. There's one plastic vacuum line from the EGR to the EGR vacuum.....check EVERY inch! Mine was melted under the protective wrap in two places. I also had to replace the EGR Vacuum (I had no vacuum to EGR @2K RPM). The only other thing to check is the sensor on top of the EGR. Easily checked with a voltmeter.
Post codes/symptoms and someone here will be able to help.
As stated above, just my opinion.
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daKeed View Post
IMO, You need to fix your problem, not eliminate the EGR system. I had EGR issues......code 332(insufficient flow) for MONTHS. Drove me nuts. Checked everything. Replaced EGR and sensor 3 times, even though I KNEW they were fine. I've since found you can check each component in the EGR system very easily.
You didn't specify if you had codes, but when you say you've had nothing but trouble with EGR, I'm assuming you've got a code of some sort. I couldn't tell you how this system works, but I've found that EGR's are rarely the problem. There's one plastic vacuum line from the EGR to the EGR vacuum.....check EVERY inch! Mine was melted under the protective wrap in two places. I also had to replace the EGR Vacuum (I had no vacuum to EGR @2K RPM). The only other thing to check is the sensor on top of the EGR. Easily checked with a voltmeter.
Post codes/symptoms and someone here will be able to help.
As stated above, just my opinion.
Your attempting to eliminate an integrated system. It's not like an Appendix, that gets removed because "you were in the neighborhood anyway"! DaKeen became an ol' EGR pro in just one thread! You have a code. Each code will indicate different things. If you do eliminate the EGR, please mention that in future posts. It will be important for those that attempt to help you, & personally, I don't bother w/ truck's after that Mod: Egr restrictor plate
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:15 PM   #4
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Ok guys i should of posted my codes, Im sorry.

here they are.....

#2- egr/dpfe signal low
#1- egr valve not opening
#1- egr/evp voltage above closed limit.

In the past 6 months i have put 2 new erg valve's, 2 new egr evp's and 1 new egr dpfe. Nothing has fixed the problem i had spend almost 700.00 dollars and had auto shops do nothing but lie. i live in a small town with no GOOD auto shops.

I have had some people say the plate will do wonders and then some not so sure. ANY help would be great. i wanna add to my check engine light was comeing on and going off when i would give the truck gas the light would come on then when i let off the gas it would go off. now its staying on it will not go off........


thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 03:24 PM   #5
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Crap! Now we gotta help him actually fix it!!! Do you have the actual code #'s? "JCMS" taught me not to rely on the code definitions provided/ just the #'s! The definitions may very dependent on source. I "know" my definition source is accurate.
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:27 PM   #6
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yes the codes numbers are....

#2- 327
#1- 332
#1- 334
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by f150miller View Post
yes the codes numbers are....

#2- 327
#1- 332
#1- 334
Nobody want's to deal w/ this? Sorry, got an inspection I have to deal w/ at the moment, I'll go over it this evening if nobody else gets to it. I won't leave ya twistin in the wind! Inspect every inch of the EGR Vac line to the EGR regulator in the mean time. On that Vac hose coming from the EGR regulator to the EGR Valve, there should no vacuum at warm idle & full vac at, say 2K rpm.
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:05 AM   #8
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UPDATE

So i went ahead and put the plate on the egr i did drill one 1/8'' hole in it. and i left the line on the egr valve. now my engine light comes on and off if i give the truck gas the light comes on if i let off the gas it goes off, and it seems to be running better. and as far as the valcum line it looks like a pain to get to????????
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:53 AM   #9
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If by a "pain to get to" you mean taking 5 minutes to check 3 feet of line to try and solve your problem, then yes, it was a HUGE pain!!
And since I fear you'll be "twistin' in the wind" waiting for help now that you've chosen to put the plate on, may I make a suggestion:
If your light comes on when you give it gas and goes off when you don't, perhaps you should NOT give it gas? I'm SURE this will work as well as that plate, if not better.
Good Luck

Last edited by daKeed; 05-22-2010 at 01:55 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:34 AM   #10
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DAKEED if your going to be rude then dont post nothing, I have never messed around with a egr there are other wires running with it and it runs under my intake manifold. i did think people posted to ask for help RIGHT? And i wont be hangin in the wind as the truck im working on is just a kick around farm truck/work truck, so i could care less about ur 2 cents. And alot of people sure like that plate and the truck is running better.

OR BETTER IDEA ILL GO TO THE CLERKS OFFICE AND JUNK IT FOR $1 IS THAT A BETTER IDEA?
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:34 AM
 
 
 
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