When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Since I just replaced my water pump I wanted to either replace clutch for fan blade or do an Efan, since they would cost roughly the same I am panning on going the efan route. Spent the entire morning reading through posts on e-fans, this is what I have planned:
Twin fan from a sedan (depends on what the JY has on hand as to what it's coming from but planning on Chrysler sedan, Taurus, or Focus)
My ?s:
Where does the AC on wire connect to to send a signal that it's running?
To get it to run on high speed with AC on do I need to connect both power wires (green and yellow) to the AC on relay as well as the low speed wire (yellow) to the temp relay? or just each to it's respective relay?
Do I need a separate power line and fuse for each relay or can I run them through the same fuse?
Will post pics and steps in this thread as I get it accomplished.
Another ?
I just replaced all of the vacuum lines with silicone from siliconeintakes and got it done, all but one: comes off of the tree and goes to a weird shaped T (black on one end, white on other two) on passenger side. Replaced the line from tree, the short line going to plastic box by firewall, but the third line runs into a loom (same one the line from the blend door actuator goes into) and into the firewall. My question is where does this line go? I still have a couple feet of silicone tubing left and would like to replace this one as well if it'll reach, or I can find it.
If memory serves me right, not close to my truck at the moment, the compressor switch on the drier should work as your signal to switch one fan on for the ac. Again, not next to my truck, but each of my fans has two wires. A green and a yellow. The high speed wire is a heavier gauge wire, green I believe. The heavier gauge wire should be your high speed. Personally, I would run low speed on a single fan. Less battery draw and it will still cool with plenty of efficiency. Remember this fan will be running the entire time that your ac is turned on and drawing amperage. I think, and you need to test, that if you run low speed for the ac, route your high speed wire to the thermal switch that you bought and it should kick your low speed fan up to high speed for the rad cooling. You have numerous fan and speed options with these twin two speed fans. They are easy enough to test and you can hook your voltage meter to the battery and see how much your reducing voltage with each configuration that your testing and determine which setup provides the most reliability balanced with your electrical system.
40a fuse each relay. If one system fails, you have the second redundant system to get you down the road until your ready to fix it. One relay fed by one fuse per fan. If a fan fails, unplug the relay. If the fuse blows or relay fails, one fan will still be running.
***This Does Not Work*** runs the ran ALL the time, engine on or off.
After a little pondering I came up with this for the wiring:
black from fan (x2) > grounded to chasis
yellow from fan (low speed) > 87a
green from fan (high speed) > 87
Power (30amp fused) > 30
Ground to chasis > 86
C (from controller) > 85
20 amp fuse (on when running) > #2 on controller
With this setup the fan will always be running low when the engine is on, only switching to high once the temp triggers the controller. I will only be using one relay with this setup. I was thinking that the mech fan is always spinning and on my Sebring (same make/year I pulled the fan from) the fan is always running so why not have it always on, plus that would be a clear indicator if the relay is bad. It's controlled by a single 30 amp relay from the factory so I shouldn't have any issues. Still routed through connector so that if one fan dies the other will still operate. And looking at the relay 87a is the no signal on, 87 is with signal on. I may change it later but got it wired to the relay and just waiting on my fuse holder to come in to throw it in the truck. Will find a box at the JY to enclose the relay in.
Last edited by fltdriver; 09-18-2014 at 08:02 PM.
Reason: Does Not Work
So I found this little gem today, don't remember what it came off of (can check next time I'm at the pull-a-part place) but it was a Ford.
Has two relays (just in case I decide to wire it up differently later), both 30 amp, and is pretty much water tight.
Pulled the mech fan, left the belt on and held the pulley with my hand, came off super quick.
Wired one of the relays to the fan connector, ground, controller. Just waiting on my fuse holder that's coming in tomorrow.
Mounted the controller to the radiator.
Ran the signal wire for the controller across the bay, inside the frame, and out right next to the ICM, tomorrow going to find the Red/Lt Green wire going to the ICM and use that as my signal since (according to this) it's 20amp and hot in Run and Start.
Running the fan full time is going to kill your battery. There's no need to run a fan at all except at idle, under heavy load or for the ac. I don't run an ac right now and on my normal 45 mile drive to work or even my 100 mile drive to visit relatives, the fans do not run at all. With an ac, I can see low speed when the ac is on. In cooler weather, no need for the fans to run traveling down the highway.
Edit....I do not know if you have an auto or 5 speed. If you have an auto, you do need to monitor trans temps and set your controller appropriately or consider an external cooler and fan with it's own controller. I just purchased a coller, 10" fan, controller and gauge setup for about $150 for the fiancé' s Silverado for pulling our travel trailer.
This thing doesn't make it out on the highway, maybe once every couple of months for a 20 mile trip. It's just in town, slow speeds, a lot of idling, usually with some weight in the bed. I know it doesn't "need" to be on but I would rather have it running with my driving style. Plus this way I can tell that everything is functioning without waiting for the truck to warm up. Once spring gets here I will use the second relay in the holder and wire it up with 87 from controller relay to high, 87 from ac relay to low, and cap off both of the 87As. By then I will be more comfortable with this setup as it will have some time on it and any quirks will have hopefully already surfaced.
Oh, auto. Also have the cooler on the front of the radiator.
Relay Two:
87>Low Speed
30>Battery
85>AC (as soon as I figure out which wire)
86>Ground
Temp Sensor/Controller:
2>Red/Lt Green wire (any wire that's Red/Lt Green works) @ ICM
C>Terminal 85 Relay #1
Ran 20" strapping from clip for old shroud to a hole on the top lip, used 2 washers as spacers between strap and radiator.
Also removed the push through mount that came with the controller and just bolted it to the upper lip.
Cut a 7" piece of strapping, bent to fit. Bolted it to the frame under the lower lip.
The truck is SOOOO much quieter, noticed a very slight increase in power leaving stop signs. I've been averaging 12.4-12.6 mpg in town so I will post what my mpg is for the next few fill ups, I got to get gas tomorrow so that will start my mpg watch.
09-14-2014, 11:31 AM
E-fan Conversion
