SaQLunch

I have a 1996 f150 single cab long bed 302. Ok I know this has been beaten to death and there are a million threads on our year trucks having a cross flow between tanks because of a bad check valve. What im wanting to do is replacing rear tank and pump assembly, capping off rear tank, then removing the front tank. How would I go about capping off a tank? I can't find any articles detailing how to cap off a tank. Also what is every component of the fuel system going from tank to injector, because I'm wanting to replace every component of the trucks fuel system from tank to injector to start with fixing it up. But i am wanting to only use the rear tank. Total cost of replacing everything relating to fuel delivery?

fltdriver

Tank/pump
Fuel line
Filter
Fuel line
injector/Fuel Pressure Regulator

Pretty much it.

It's only got to hold (at max, usually nothing close to) 45psi, so basically anything. You can thread the line and use a plumbing cap, you can hose clamp a rubber cap, you can solder a cap/plug, you can redirect it into the rear line using a T. Pretty much dealers choice.

IMHO I wouldn't delete the tank unless you need that area clear for some reason (true duals, I.E.) for the simple fact that it will take almost as much time to remove and cap as it would to just swap an entirely new assembly in. It'll cost a little more to replace it but then you get the extra tank of gas and pump as a back up. These dual tank pumps will last forever if you are conscious about there use. Mine are the original, truck has 310k+ miles, and the original owner that I got the truck from (ford service tech for dealership) gave me this advice as the best possible use of them:
Drive until the needle touches the E (not into it just touching)
Switch tanks
Refill when able (fill both tanks)
Remain on 2nd tank until needle touches the E
Switch tanks
Refill when able
Remain on 1st tank until needle touches the E
REPEAT

This always leaves plenty of gas in the tank to cool the pump, usually 2-3 gallons in front and 3-5 in the rear. It also uses up the oldest gas first yet doesn't leave anything sitting in a tank like a lot of people who just keep a "reserve" for backup.

Total cost depends on where you get parts and what brand you get, my suggestion is to use rockauto and make a list of the parts you need (they have preassembled tanks/pumps w/straps) then use those part numbers to search other places (amazon, ebay, etc..) to ensure you are getting the best deal including shipping costs.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

This is the fuel line system (not including the vent line)

SaQLunch

Thank you fltdriver I appreciate the info. You have some good points about replacing both tanks to leave 2 functional tanks. I am considering this at the moment. Question, if I were to go this route, which replacement part would contain the piece that is broken in my tanks? By this I mean which part is the check valve or back flow valve or whatever is causing the problem contained inside of? Like is this component inside the fuel line somewhere or maybe in the fuel pump? All I know about the cross flow problem is the word check valve, not anything about the part or what it does or where it is located. Im asking because if I am going to replace both tanks then I might as well fix this piece first, since I will probably not replace it all at once. Im not going to be dumb about it though, like I wont replace the fuel injectors before the tank and filter, or replace the fuel filter then replace the tank a few weeks later incase the tank is rusty. Anyway I guess the point is do I have to replace the valve or would it be smarter to replace the unit containing the valve. An example would be if the valve is in the fuel line. Why replace the valve right now when Im later going to replace the entire fuel line system which will contain a new valve? This is what im wondering. If im confusing you then feel free to point out which part is confusing and I can elaborate because im getting confused just typing this up so im sure im confusing you.

fltdriver

Any pump assembly would have the check valves as they are internal (in the pump), so even if you just replaced the pump and nothing else you would be g2g. Like I said before they have preassembled tank/pump set ups that come with new straps, and IMHO that is the way to go, you don't have to worry about anything besides wiring the new connector where the old was (they usually aren't the same as the OEM) but that is probably the easiest part of the entire endeavor. You at least have your head on straight, start at the back and work your way forward, that way if you knock anything loose (in the lines or what have you) it will only go to old parts.

joegeds

I just bought a pre-assembled tank/FDM from Rock Auto for $200, but it was the front tank and not the rear. I think the rear was about the same price. Very easy job - took less than an hour to remove the old and install the new. I have heard that the fuel lines are more difficult to get to for the rear tank, however. BTW, here is a good write up on how to delete a tank if you want, but I agree with the other posters - it's better to just replace it:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/862974


And lastly, here is the section in the 96 Ford Service Manual covering the fuel system. This should help you:

SaQLunch

Thank you guys I appreciate the info. At first I seemed to have my mind dead set on using only one tank but after thinking over some of you guys points, I think I have decided to just replace both tanks.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Good plan ! By the time it's said and done it'll probably be way less hassle and not a whole lot more money and your truck will work the way it's supposed to. I've seen a few guys to deletes and unless they actually change over the hoses to single tank ones they do a lot of messing around and always seem to end up with leaks sooner or later. It can be done, but what a PITA over a 200.00 tank.
IMHO