Drop the tank or pull the bed
#1
1996 302 5.0 Eddie Bauer
Thread Starter
Drop the tank or pull the bed
I purchased my truck about two weeks ago. 1996 f150 swb 5.0 The front tank gauge does not work so I have been running off of the rear tank. My mileage has been horrendous. Well, yesterday I stopped by a store and when I got out there was gas pouring out of my front gas cap. It looks like the front pump will need to be replaced. At least I know why the gas mileage seemed to be so bad.
I would rather not drop the tank but I have been told the bolts that hold the bed will be next to impossible to get off.
A few questions:
1. My truck is rust free. If I pull the bed, any tips that would help? I know I have to disconnect the tank fill line and wires.
2. Can the bed be tilted? Remove bolts on one side and loosen the other allowing acces to the tank but not removing the bed completely.
3. Where do I get replacement bolts if one breaks?
Thanks!
I would rather not drop the tank but I have been told the bolts that hold the bed will be next to impossible to get off.
A few questions:
1. My truck is rust free. If I pull the bed, any tips that would help? I know I have to disconnect the tank fill line and wires.
2. Can the bed be tilted? Remove bolts on one side and loosen the other allowing acces to the tank but not removing the bed completely.
3. Where do I get replacement bolts if one breaks?
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Try the bolts - penetrating oil first.
If most come undone, you can have someone tack weld a piece of flat bar to the bolt heads of the ones that won't come undone to stop them from spinning.
Or drop the tank.
I personally like having the box out of the way, but it's just whatever will work best for you.
Just a grade 8 carraige bolt will work, although you're unlikely to break a box bolt unless you get the sawzall out.
If most come undone, you can have someone tack weld a piece of flat bar to the bolt heads of the ones that won't come undone to stop them from spinning.
Or drop the tank.
I personally like having the box out of the way, but it's just whatever will work best for you.
Just a grade 8 carraige bolt will work, although you're unlikely to break a box bolt unless you get the sawzall out.
#3
I purchased my truck about two weeks ago. 1996 f150 swb 5.0 The front tank gauge does not work so I have been running off of the rear tank. My mileage has been horrendous. Well, yesterday I stopped by a store and when I got out there was gas pouring out of my front gas cap. It looks like the front pump will need to be replaced. At least I know why the gas mileage seemed to be so bad.
I would rather not drop the tank but I have been told the bolts that hold the bed will be next to impossible to get off.
A few questions:
1. My truck is rust free. If I pull the bed, any tips that would help? I know I have to disconnect the tank fill line and wires.
I would rather not drop the tank but I have been told the bolts that hold the bed will be next to impossible to get off.
A few questions:
1. My truck is rust free. If I pull the bed, any tips that would help? I know I have to disconnect the tank fill line and wires.
On the other hand, it sounds like that could also turn out to be a major project in its own right. And that could be very frustrating.
I've dropped tanks before, and it's not that hard. I mounted a board on my floor jack and was able to get the tank out of my car without too much trouble. I drained it as much as I could before dropping. That entailed removing the fill hose first, then siphoning out the gas.
Anyway, my instincts are to avoid doing the bed unless it can be done in 15 minutes with no broken bolts.
Doug
.
#4
Senior Member
On the front tank I'd personally drop the tank. When I did mine I pulled the driveshaft (4 bolts) then unbolted the straps and let the tank down on a jack. Lots of room to work under there no issues, I'd say that'd be easier then try and unbolt the box then try to move it back. If it runs on the front tank try to burn most of the fuel first.
#5
Bleeds blue
Just slide the bed back, especially since it's a swb. You have to disconnect the tail light harness behind the rear bumper, remove the screws that retain the filler necks and remove the filler cap, there is a hose clamp that supports the filler hose that is connected to the bottom of the bed, remove the bed bolts and you're ready. With one helper you can easily lift and set the bed back. it helps to remove the rear wheels and set the truck on jack stands. That way you don't have to lift the bed as high to clear the inner fender liner and brace.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...pssnwxe0zz.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psou1piiku.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psz4lvpzyi.jpg
Setting the bed back is easier than it sounds and you won't have a full tank of fuel to man-handle, even with a jack, not to mention fighting fuel lines and trying not to FUBAR them.I've had to replace a pump in every Ford truck I've had in the last 10-15 years, never dropped the tank.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...pssnwxe0zz.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psou1piiku.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...psz4lvpzyi.jpg
Setting the bed back is easier than it sounds and you won't have a full tank of fuel to man-handle, even with a jack, not to mention fighting fuel lines and trying not to FUBAR them.I've had to replace a pump in every Ford truck I've had in the last 10-15 years, never dropped the tank.
Last edited by ncranchero; 04-26-2015 at 11:44 AM.
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Disconnecting the fuel lines can be the kicker with dropping the tank (I've found). If they come undone easily, and they sometimes do, then it's great.
Seems like usually at least one of them wants to be a pain and stick in place and then you're messing around with the tank 1/2 way to the ground and a line that won't come loose, no room to get in and mess with it properly and it just turns into a stupid annoying project and you end up wishing you'd just taken the box off.
Doesn't always go that way of course, sometimes everything works just like it's supposed to, but on 20 year old trucks things can tend to not exactly cooperate.
Seems like usually at least one of them wants to be a pain and stick in place and then you're messing around with the tank 1/2 way to the ground and a line that won't come loose, no room to get in and mess with it properly and it just turns into a stupid annoying project and you end up wishing you'd just taken the box off.
Doesn't always go that way of course, sometimes everything works just like it's supposed to, but on 20 year old trucks things can tend to not exactly cooperate.
#7
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
1. My truck is rust free. If I pull the bed, any tips that would help? I know I have to disconnect the tank fill line and wires.
2. Can the bed be tilted? Remove bolts on one side and loosen the other allowing acces to the tank but not removing the bed completely.
3. Where do I get replacement bolts if one breaks?
2. Can the bed be tilted? Remove bolts on one side and loosen the other allowing acces to the tank but not removing the bed completely.
3. Where do I get replacement bolts if one breaks?
2. Not enough to give you good access, if you try this route you will probably wish you had just completely removed the bed.
3. Hardware store, Grade 8.
Remember though that 20+ year old tank straps should be replaced as they have been holding a good amount of weight in their lifetime as well as being subjected to road grime and the elements. There have been others that removed the bed then dropped the tank to replace the whole assembly and said that it was much easier to drop it with the bed out of the way.
Long story short my suggestion is to remove the bed, replace the pump, then replace the straps, just use a jack or stand to support the tank while you change out the straps, it'll save some headaches down the road by 1. having fresh bed bolts for when the rear pump needs attention 2. save you from having to replace the straps anytime in the foreseeable future.
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#8
Rear bumper needs to come off to remove the bed. I can have a bumper and bed off in 20 minutes if everything is going as it should. With the bed off it gives you full access to everything and gives you the opportunity to pressure wash from the cab back, if you want.
With that said, this same job can turn into a nightmare if the bed bolts won't come out.
Get a t50 torx and an impact or breaker bar and see if the bed bolts will turn, check all of them. If they turn, I would pull or set back the bed. If they don't, drop the tank.
You should have 4 people to lift the bed off.
With that said, this same job can turn into a nightmare if the bed bolts won't come out.
Get a t50 torx and an impact or breaker bar and see if the bed bolts will turn, check all of them. If they turn, I would pull or set back the bed. If they don't, drop the tank.
You should have 4 people to lift the bed off.
#10
Rear bumper needs to come off to remove the bed. I can have a bumper and bed off in 20 minutes if everything is going as it should. With the bed off it gives you full access to everything and gives you the opportunity to pressure wash from the cab back, if you want.
With that said, this same job can turn into a nightmare if the bed bolts won't come out.
Get a t50 torx and an impact or breaker bar and see if the bed bolts will turn, check all of them. If they turn, I would pull or set back the bed. If they don't, drop the tank.
You should have 4 people to lift the bed off.
With that said, this same job can turn into a nightmare if the bed bolts won't come out.
Get a t50 torx and an impact or breaker bar and see if the bed bolts will turn, check all of them. If they turn, I would pull or set back the bed. If they don't, drop the tank.
You should have 4 people to lift the bed off.
-Remove the 6 bolts on the bed
-disconnect the wiring to the tail lights
-lift and move the bed out of the way
Me and 1 other guy were able to lift the bed out of the way. To me, way better than messing with draining the tank, removing straps, trying to fit my hands up to remove fuel lines, etc.