Connection between ignition key cylinder and ignition switch broken
#1
Connection between ignition key cylinder and ignition switch broken
Vehicle--1995 F-150 4.9 with automatic:
The key rotates freely until it comes up on the spring-load to push the ignition switch into start mode. The car will start, but will not stop without pulling fuses. The ignition switch stays in the run mode no matter what you do with the key (except start the vehicle of course). I think the rod or its anchor must be broken--it will push but not pull. Nothing wrong with the ignition switch. I've pulled it down and it clicks through all positions as needed... you can start and stop the car, turn on accessories, etc., by pushing on the rod coming out of the ignition switch. Nothing wrong with the lock cylinder--I installed a new one to be sure. Problem is, I can't see how to replace or repair the rod/slider that connects the two together. It's all sealed up inside metal. Do I have to remove the steering wheel and disassemble all that covering? If so, how do I disable the air bag so it doesn't accidentally discharge in my face?
Keith
p.s. and the ABS light came on and now it won't go off. ????
The key rotates freely until it comes up on the spring-load to push the ignition switch into start mode. The car will start, but will not stop without pulling fuses. The ignition switch stays in the run mode no matter what you do with the key (except start the vehicle of course). I think the rod or its anchor must be broken--it will push but not pull. Nothing wrong with the ignition switch. I've pulled it down and it clicks through all positions as needed... you can start and stop the car, turn on accessories, etc., by pushing on the rod coming out of the ignition switch. Nothing wrong with the lock cylinder--I installed a new one to be sure. Problem is, I can't see how to replace or repair the rod/slider that connects the two together. It's all sealed up inside metal. Do I have to remove the steering wheel and disassemble all that covering? If so, how do I disable the air bag so it doesn't accidentally discharge in my face?
Keith
p.s. and the ABS light came on and now it won't go off. ????
Last edited by kjhansen; 06-28-2011 at 06:45 PM. Reason: clarity
#2
Sound like two different problems to me. Try pulling the codes and see if you get any. There is sticky at the top of the page to tell you how to do this for free. As for the rod you may just have a broken return spring and need to replace it. See if any springs are broken or are just worn out.
#4
I would love to see if there any springs broken or worn, but a) I don't think there are any... The slider moves when you turn the key to the Accessories, Off and Run positions--no spring returns, and b) I can't see the mechanism as it's all wrapped up in steel, which is why I posted the question. How do you get to the rod?
Oh, and this 1995 truck appears to be OBD II, as none of the connections noted in the sticky article appear under the hood. I'll have O'Reiilys pull codes for me.
Oh, and this 1995 truck appears to be OBD II, as none of the connections noted in the sticky article appear under the hood. I'll have O'Reiilys pull codes for me.
#6
Senior Member
I know there is a spring for the airbag in most cars, called a clock spring, that could be your airbag culprit. Just make sure you disconnect the battery and wait about 10 minutes for a full drain before messing with the airbag.
#7
Animal Hoarder
Ive never worked on an F150 column before but I know the Explorers had issues with the ignition rod breaking. The lock cylinder pushes the rod that pushes the ignition switch which activates the starter. Since the bar in broken it wont return so it keeps either the starter engaged or just doesnt allow you to turn the vehicle off.
Easier repair? Replaced the entire column.... about $100 from a salvage yard. BigGreyBox is correct, unhook the battery and let it sit for a few minutes so you dont set an Airbag light.
Easier repair? Replaced the entire column.... about $100 from a salvage yard. BigGreyBox is correct, unhook the battery and let it sit for a few minutes so you dont set an Airbag light.
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#8
Senior Member
The ignition switch itself should be spring loaded to return it from the start position to the run position so it sounds like a bad switch.
If the rod moves up and down with the key cylinder the actuator in the column should be ok. If not the actuator is probably bad which is a common problem with our trucks. The steering wheel will have to be removed to go deeper into the colum to replace it.
The ABS light will be a different issue like a bad wire or connection or a problem with the sensor on the rear differential
If the rod moves up and down with the key cylinder the actuator in the column should be ok. If not the actuator is probably bad which is a common problem with our trucks. The steering wheel will have to be removed to go deeper into the colum to replace it.
The ABS light will be a different issue like a bad wire or connection or a problem with the sensor on the rear differential
Last edited by Nitehawkjr; 07-01-2011 at 02:31 PM.
#9
The spring load in the ignition switch from start to run works just fine--see first post:
"The key rotates freely until it comes up on the spring-load to push the ignition switch into start mode. The car will start, but will not stop without pulling fuses. The ignition switch stays in the run mode no matter what you do with the key (except start the vehicle of course)."
"Nothing wrong with the ignition switch. I've pulled it down and it clicks through all positions as needed... you can start and stop the car, turn on accessories, etc., by pushing on the rod coming out of the ignition switch."
Again, it's the manual movement that you do when you turn the key from run to off or off to accessories that doesn't work--it doesn't "move with the action of the key cylinder."
The ignition switch itself is good, the key cylinder is good.
I'd rather fix or replace a rod than replace the whole steering column, but per SuzukiRider, below, perhaps it can't be done.... Well anything can be done with the right tools I suppose (in this case maybe a cutting wheel or torch).
"The key rotates freely until it comes up on the spring-load to push the ignition switch into start mode. The car will start, but will not stop without pulling fuses. The ignition switch stays in the run mode no matter what you do with the key (except start the vehicle of course)."
"Nothing wrong with the ignition switch. I've pulled it down and it clicks through all positions as needed... you can start and stop the car, turn on accessories, etc., by pushing on the rod coming out of the ignition switch."
Again, it's the manual movement that you do when you turn the key from run to off or off to accessories that doesn't work--it doesn't "move with the action of the key cylinder."
The ignition switch itself is good, the key cylinder is good.
I'd rather fix or replace a rod than replace the whole steering column, but per SuzukiRider, below, perhaps it can't be done.... Well anything can be done with the right tools I suppose (in this case maybe a cutting wheel or torch).
#10
OK, thanks to somebody on http://www.ford-trucks.com I got an illustrated guide on how to fix the problem. Turns out the plastic gear "rod" had a chipped tooth and the pin (that attaches it to another plastic piece that actually holds the ignition rod and moves it) had fallen out of it. So you could push, but not pull. I got a new piece at the local Ford dealer for $17.63, and followed the instructions and we're back on the road.
Here's what the old part looked like.
Keith
Here's what the old part looked like.
Keith