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Old 04-13-2009, 01:56 PM   #1
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Default Check Engine Light/ Rough Idle/ no power

Help I recently inherited a 95 Ford F-150 5.0 V8 with an automatic with about 85,000 miles on it when my grandfather passed away recently. Since then I have been struggling to get it to run right. The check engine light will come on and go off randomly while driving the truck around town and on the highway and does not seem to come on during any specific type of driving. The problem is no one around here can scan a OBD I engine everyone says they can only do OBDII which is a complete pain for me now.
The list of problems with the truck..
Idles rough normally stays around 600-650 at times it will jump up to around a 1000rpm and then fall to about 500 and almost stall.
When driving the truck it does not seem to have any power in the lower rpm range say below 2500rpm no matter how much gas you give it just bogs out pretty much. Then at random moments it will just kick and all of a sudden run fine. It also seems like if you floor it for a few seconds after it runs normal the truck will continue to run like it should for a few minutes and then start bogging down again..

Things I have changed so far.
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
Spark plug wires
Distributor cap
Rotor
2 different fuel injector cleaner additives for the gas.
Fuel Filter none of it has helped so now I am clueless on what to do.
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:54 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum! Your problem sounds a lot like fuel pressure issue to me. Start with reading the codes, and post the results here. This link will explain how to do it - http://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/.
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:37 PM   #3
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Agreed with fast hampster on fuel problem Pull codes first but
my 95 did something like what yours is doing tho not to that extreme
it was my fuel pump.
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:12 PM   #4
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Could also be EGR issues, or maybe a sticking IAC valve mixed in there. The codes should tell the tale - good luck!
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:28 PM   #5
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I am trying to do the self test using the check engine light but can not get it to work right i posted a question on how to do on the link for the procedure given in a earlier post.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:51 PM   #6
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I posted this response in the other thread, but I'll paste it in here too.




On your '95 you only have to run the jumper wire from the single connector to the other connector on the house looking plug. The additional wires are for trucks that don't have a check engine light, like my '87. And even then you don't hook that terminal to the positive, you hook it to the negative of a voltmeter and the positive of the voltmeter to the battery.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:02 PM   #7
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Alright I finally got the check engine light to run but I am terrible at trying to figure out what codes it was giving me so here is a link of a video of the check engine light on youtube I hope you all can help me out..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS8X1fuvicw
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:14 PM   #8
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It does seem to be blinking a bit weird. You are supposed to have 3 digit codes but it looks like code 33 at first. I watched it several times and it looks like 33 to me. 33 is EGR valve opening not detected. Inspect the EGR components, make sure the vacuum is hooked up and getting vacuum, make sure the EGR moves freely, make sure the solenoid is functioning.

Second is definitely 172, very clear. 172 is oxygen sensor indicates system always lean. The engine isn't getting enough fuel. Clogged fuel filter, blocked line, bad or clogged injectors, or bad fuel pump.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:20 PM   #9
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Well i am glad I was not the only person confused by the first code... I replaced the fuel filter and have run 3 different fuel injectot cleaners through it. How would I got about checking the fuel pump? Wouldn't there be 2 fuel pumps since it has 2 tanks?
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:35 PM   #10
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Yes, each tank has a pump. To check them you need to hook a fuel pressure gauge to the port on the fuel rail and measure the pressure. 35-45 psi engine off, 30-45 psi engine running. Unhook the fuel pressure regulator vacuum and pressure should increase 5-10 psi. With the truck off turn the key on for pressure to build until the pump automatically shuts off and check the static pressure, the pressure should hold steady or slowly drop off.
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Old 04-13-2009, 09:35 PM
 
 
 
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