Check Engine Light 1996 F150
#11
Senior Member
Iwould check for vacuum leaks if you guys have replaced all the o2 sensors,maf sensors and fuel filters,a clogged fuel filter will definitly cause a lean code,egr can cause a lean code if it is stuck partially open also.
#13
#15
Senior Member
The codes you posted, do you have the correct translation? My question is, which is bank 1 or bank 2 on an inline 6 cylinder engine? Those codes posted, did they mean something else back in 1996?
#16
No Luck
Hello! (Sorry delayed reply)
No, I have not been able to get the check engine light to go off. I still need to try replacing the EGR valve and MAF valve (I replaced the MAF sensor before, is this a different part?).
A good question was brought up...are the code translations the same now as they were in 1996? (Do they change?)
Suppose I could always pay an arm and a leg, and just take it into the local Ford dealership. I already took it to a local shop that recently opened claiming 25 years of technician service at Ford and had them check it out. They thought it was the MAF but would need to charge me more money to check it out and quoted me $400 for the part....needless to say I replaced it myself for if I can recall correctly, less than $200 and the light stil came on. Jack*****es!
I also now need to replace the fuel return switch part for my tanks.
No, I have not been able to get the check engine light to go off. I still need to try replacing the EGR valve and MAF valve (I replaced the MAF sensor before, is this a different part?).
A good question was brought up...are the code translations the same now as they were in 1996? (Do they change?)
Suppose I could always pay an arm and a leg, and just take it into the local Ford dealership. I already took it to a local shop that recently opened claiming 25 years of technician service at Ford and had them check it out. They thought it was the MAF but would need to charge me more money to check it out and quoted me $400 for the part....needless to say I replaced it myself for if I can recall correctly, less than $200 and the light stil came on. Jack*****es!
I also now need to replace the fuel return switch part for my tanks.
#17
1996 Ford F150 Check Light
Hi,
I changed the MAF sensor and valve to no avail a long time ago. Problem still pops up. We changed the o2 sensor (on manifold next to firewall) just recently. The problem disappears and I shout with joy. I tow a 23 ft camping trailer about 15 miles and left the camper to get wheel bearings packed. On the drive back home the check engine light pops on again. This same thing happened a while back when I changed the o2 sensor on the manifold at the front of the engine. What problem are you haveing with the gas tank switch. Maybe that is a common denominator we should look at that. I have a minor problem with the back tank feeding gas to the front tank when switched on the back tank but truck runs fine. I have not tried to fix it.
mippps
I changed the MAF sensor and valve to no avail a long time ago. Problem still pops up. We changed the o2 sensor (on manifold next to firewall) just recently. The problem disappears and I shout with joy. I tow a 23 ft camping trailer about 15 miles and left the camper to get wheel bearings packed. On the drive back home the check engine light pops on again. This same thing happened a while back when I changed the o2 sensor on the manifold at the front of the engine. What problem are you haveing with the gas tank switch. Maybe that is a common denominator we should look at that. I have a minor problem with the back tank feeding gas to the front tank when switched on the back tank but truck runs fine. I have not tried to fix it.
mippps
#18
ford f150 checklight problem
Hello! (Sorry delayed reply)
No, I have not been able to get the check engine light to go off. I still need to try replacing the EGR valve and MAF valve (I replaced the MAF sensor before, is this a different part?).
A good question was brought up...are the code translations the same now as they were in 1996? (Do they change?)
Suppose I could always pay an arm and a leg, and just take it into the local Ford dealership. I already took it to a local shop that recently opened claiming 25 years of technician service at Ford and had them check it out. They thought it was the MAF but would need to charge me more money to check it out and quoted me $400 for the part....needless to say I replaced it myself for if I can recall correctly, less than $200 and the light stil came on. Jack*****es!
I also now need to replace the fuel return switch part for my tanks.
No, I have not been able to get the check engine light to go off. I still need to try replacing the EGR valve and MAF valve (I replaced the MAF sensor before, is this a different part?).
A good question was brought up...are the code translations the same now as they were in 1996? (Do they change?)
Suppose I could always pay an arm and a leg, and just take it into the local Ford dealership. I already took it to a local shop that recently opened claiming 25 years of technician service at Ford and had them check it out. They thought it was the MAF but would need to charge me more money to check it out and quoted me $400 for the part....needless to say I replaced it myself for if I can recall correctly, less than $200 and the light stil came on. Jack*****es!
I also now need to replace the fuel return switch part for my tanks.
I just had an idea. Do you use the lowest octane regular like me The o2 sensor's job is to report things like "fuel lean". The owners manual said we should be using 87 or higher octane and I am using 85 octane. Both tanks were full when I thought of this and I purchased some octane booster and put in in the front tank. The truck is used for recreational puposes and I won't give it a good test for the several weeks. I will let you know what happens. The error code was P0174.
mipps
#19
same problem
#1 Can an exhaust leak at the pipe before the cat cause this? When I first bought my truck I had a similar problem found that the pcv valve had an extra port that the rubber nipple had fallen off. Cured the problem for several months. Over the past few years I tried most of the things all you other guys did but have not found a solution. Just yesterday I noticed my exhaust is hanging down a bit and some of the hangers are rotted off. Like everyone else says the truck seems to run great.
#2 Is it possible that somewhere in the smog pump system that some intentional restriction in one of the passages has rotted out causing the pump to put out too much air into the exhaust? Are there any adjustments that can be made to that system? Am I grasping at straws?
#2 Is it possible that somewhere in the smog pump system that some intentional restriction in one of the passages has rotted out causing the pump to put out too much air into the exhaust? Are there any adjustments that can be made to that system? Am I grasping at straws?
#20
Senior Member
I looked up PO171 & PO174 in an old Chilton manual which covered the 95-96 OBD I system, both codes pertain to bank 1. If, I am not mistaken isn't the intake on the 300 CID engine, a bolt on intake? Its not cast into the head like the older and smaller 200 CID? Saying that, have you both sprayed the gasket flange area with carb cleaner to check for a basic intake leak with the engine idling?