Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Looks ok. Probably be a good first vehicle for you. If your dad says things look pretty good overall, I'd say go for it.
Really, for 1500.00 if it runs and will get up a hill under it's own steam and actually stop when you put your foot on the brake you're doing ok. If it looks decent you're ahead.
You won't be into it for a ton of money, if it gets to be too much in repairs you can always resell it.
But those trucks are pretty well built, it should have plenty of life left in it.

Garrett99

Yes. We drove it up a pretty steep hill when test driving it and it did pretty good. It didn't seem to struggle getting up the hill. And the brakes were really good - stopped on a dime and no screeching or loud high pitched noises.

Garrett99

Sorry for yet another double post.

How would I replace the turn signal relay if I was to buy the '89 XLT? I know the turn signal relay is a $15 part that can be purchased at any major auto part store, but where would the turn signal relay be located? Would it be located inside the cab fuse box or the fuse box inside the engine compartment?

I can read electrical schematics fairly good, I used to study electronics a lot.

fltdriver

For that year I can't be certain, but the 92-96 it's in the cab fuse box.

Did you pull the codes after you test drove it? That's a major thing that should be done on any vehicle. If the CEL comes on but doesn't blink out codes then you have a problem with the ECC, if the CEL doesn't come on it's burnt out (or removed by a shady seller because was lit up) you can use an analog voltmeter to retrieve the codes.

Garrett99

What is the CEL? I'm going to assume Check Engine Light. The Check Engine Light was NOT illuminated during the test drive. And I don't have an OBDI code checker, which tells you that I did not check the codes. The fluid levels were low, but maybe I didn't drive it long enough for the engine computer to notice and trip a code? Also, what is the ECC?

I don't have an analog voltmeter - just a cheap digital read-out voltmeter that can read volts, amps, and ohms. If need be, I can buy an OBDI code reader if they're not too expensive (I think I've heard they're about $30 - or I just may be wrong.)

Time for another (somewhat) dumb question that is irrelevant to the truck in question but still has captured my mind. I ride bicycles a lot and have gone through several tires, and understand that on a bicycle the tire incorporates an inner tube to hold the air. I never really understood tubeless tires as it just seems that the air would leak out at the bead.

I've seen cars where the tire is sealed to the rim, which would make perfect sense so no air would leak. Then I've seen other cars (like the truck below) that have a little gap between the rim and the tire. Wouldn't that gap let air leak out? I know, a very irrelevant and stupid question to ask - but I just wanted to know for curiosity sake.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

You can't assume it's the relay because it might be if you follow that.
You can assume that whatever the problem is, it can probably be fixed fairly cheaply.
Once you get it home you can do some diagnostics and figure it out.
I would mention again though that it would be a good idea to have a mechanic give it a safety check so you know exactly what you're getting into before you drop your money on the table. No surprises.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

That truck has hubcaps. The space is between the hubcap and the wheel. Is what it looks like anyway.
You'll get to understand how tires seal when you see them being installed.

Garrett99

True. The turn signal indicator on the dash was on, but just wasn't blinking. I believe that the dash indicator is an exact mirror of what is actually showing outside. I believe it is the relay, but if not I can always trace it back.

The issue with having a mechanic look at it is that is extra $$$ I don't have. I believe my dad when he said he couldn't find any major issues wrong with it, but he also isn't an expert at cars so a mechanic would be a good idea, or even someone who is more experienced with cars and more specifically that vehicle.

Would there be any things to look at to give me a sign as to if the truck will be a reliable buy or a $1500 issue? The fluid levels were low, but he said they didn't appear to be leaking. And fltdriver said the bubbles in the transmission fluid may be normal (there was no burning smell to the transmission fluid but the color was a little dark, according to my dad.)

clintm6

Garrett99,

Once you do make a decision, and you do get a truck (this one, or another one) get yourself a Haynes Repair Manual. You can learn a lot about vehicle maintenance and repair from these, and they're usually not too expensive ($15-20). I remember my first car at about your age was a '73 Bronco, and it was a lot of fun! So enjoy yourself, have fun, and take good care of your truck and it will take care of you!

Good Luck!!!

Garrett99

Will do.

I probably won't be able to afford to have a mechanic take a look at the truck with a close eye, but is there any thing I should look at to get an idea of the condition of the truck, mechanically (besides the fluid levels.)

Also, once I get it on the road and I save up enough money, I do plan on replacing the tires and getting a spare wheel and tire (the truck has no spare wheel/tire assembly.) What tire is recommended for everyday driving use but isn't too expensive? And how much would it cost to have tires installed, or is it possible to install tires yourself?

The '89 XLT mentioned also has aluminum headers and dual exhaust.