Buckoff

I'm looking at buying a 4x2 Regular Cab 5.0L XLT Lariat. This will be my first project. Right now the front tank fuel sensor doesn't work and I think it's the fuel sending unit. The steering has a LOT of play and the truck sort of drifts above 45 mph, I found another thread about the intermittent steering shaft with a shim issue, sounds like an easy fix there. Also the power steering is whining and leaking. The truck cranks over quick and the transmission shifts smooth. These are the issues that I know about right now but any advise on other major issues to look for would be great before I buy, for 1400 I feel like its a great price to get my hands dirty on a fun truck.

fltdriver

I always check the color of the brake fluid, it's a good indicator on how well any vehicle is maintained. Most people never think about it as long as the brakes work. If it's dark I give the vehicle a very thorough inspection, if it's lightly tinted I just do my regular basics. Pull the codes, take a paperclip or short length of wire and you will be able to pull them using the CEL, there's a sticky on how to do it.

Stop by an autoparts store and borrow a compression tester to make sure all the cylinders are good and block tester (you will have to purchase the fluid for it) to check for head gasket leak.

Other than that just look for leaks, rusted suspension and radiator mounts, also test the cruise and horn to ensure the clock spring is ok. You may want to print out a list of CEL codes and air bag codes.

Others will have more but this is what I can think of now.

mbarr101

sounds like a good deal for 1400... parts are so cheap for these trucks its ok if it needs something new (besides engine, transmission of course) but fltdriver is right, just do your basic check with fluids and if it starts up quick thats good. core support will def rust out (see my build thread) but as long as the rust is not major, these things are tanks. speaking of tanks, i have a 92 and my front tank doesnt work either. also- what do you mean by "float" at 45mph?

get a pic up if you can. sounds good to me tho-

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

The guy may not be too excited about you pulling plugs for a compression check or sticking the paper clip in to check codes on a 1400.00 truck, especially if you're not an experienced looking certified mechanic. I agree that it would be a great idea, but in the real world I don't see it happening.
Probably the best thing you can do is look for the big things that are reasonably evident.
You'll want to look at all 4 rear spring hangers for signs of rust out or broken hangers and shackles, check the radius arm brackets to see if they're still riveted or if they're held on by bolts - still riveted, they're probably original and worn out.
The gas tanks leak over time, look for staining from a leak.
The steel brake lines (all of them) if they haven't been replaced, you'll be doing it, especially the long one behind the gas tank.
Look at the shocks - new or original ?
Tire wear - is it even or really wierd looking. You should be allowed to jack the front end up (from under the big bolt) and check the ball joints and steering for play. If they're loose, you're going to be buying (and installing) new ones
Having a look at the brakes would be kind of a nice thing too - are they fairly new and well maintained, or old and rusty ?
Check fluids - not so much the level as the appearance and smell - if the tranny fluid smells burnt, it is.
How old do the battery, starter and alternator look ? if they don't look pretty damn new, you will be buying one.
On the body, pay particular attention to the cab corners, the cab mounts, as well as the front rad saddle mounts (looking for rust, or rot out).
It's a real good idea to wear some old clothes and bring something to lie on. Even if it looks good on top, you can spend BIG money underneath.
It's more than reasonable to ask the guy to take it for a safety inspection if you offer to pay for the inspection. It usually costs about 60.00 and it's a very good investment before you lay out 1400.00
If they find nothing major, you can buy the truck with peace of mind. If they find a lot of major things wrong, you may decide to keep shopping or at least renegotiate the price. Remember, once you've bought it, it's going to be your problem. No warranty or returns on a private deal.
Good luck - hope it works out OK

Buckoff

The CEL codes is an awesome trick I found that sticky and will use that.

also- what do you mean by "float" at 45mph?

The steering is loose so it does not hold the wheels straight when going forward. Turning is easy but the straightaways you really feel it. I was planning on changing out the power steering box but after some substantial forum reading I found a guy who had the exact same problem on a 90 and it ended up being a shim between the steering box column and the steering column coming out of the firewall. He slammed two washers in there and it steered good as new. If not, I priced a new steering box and column at around 350, or better I could go to a U-pull-it and have a day tearing someone else's truck apart!

Thanks for the advise guys. Here is the only picture he has online. It also has very little rust (California desert dweller) and newish front suspension. I'm fairly certain I am going to buy it at this point.

Buckoff

Chris, all dead on idea's. The battery looked great, the alternator and starter both still had some factory shine so they can't be more than 2 years old. Tires were pretty even although not the greatest shape (anyone in the Apple Valley area want to sell some tires), There is power steering fluid leaking from a hard pipe fitting leaving the pump which I believe is a pressure hose of some sort. Found a gasket kit for 8 bucks and a new pump is 60 so if I screw up the gasket replacement and clean-up I wont have to spend a lot to fix it. I am going to take another look at it in an hour so. I will let y'all know what the verdict is. I really hope everything looks great.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

I can see about 1000.00 worth of parts you could sell off, so you can't go too far wrong for 1400. Try 1000 and see if you can meet somewhere in the middle.

Buckoff

I looked it up and down and took your list of checks. Not an ounce of rust on this thing except inside the bed where water looks like it has sat. Brakes looked great, brake lines look like they have seen a better day. Transmission fluid was a great color and had no off smells. Oil was the same. I did find a small shelf under the radiator that had radiator fluid on it. It wasn't "leaked today fresh" but it was within a couple months. The power steering pump is leaking at the high pressure hose intake seal. The rear window looked newer and had a two piece sliding window in it so I think this was done aftermarket.

He originally asked 1750 and then said 1400, not sure he will drop any lower but I can try.

Everything said on the thread so far...If this happened upon you would you go for it?

Manuellabour247

That would be a solid 1000-1200 truck all day long, with 1400 being the very top end of the price range. I live in the midwest though, so there'd be a lot more rust. If you feel confident in it, I'd say go for it. So long as it's something you can tinker on and not depend on all of the time right away. You do have another vehicle as a dependable daily driver correct?

Buckoff

Yea this would be "dads toy" but I would like to use it as a daily driver. Tearing it down for a week would not be an issue. Maybe I am hesitant because this will be the biggest project I have undertaken so far beyond some beers and a lift kit and a transmission swap many years ago. Cheers to hoping he goes to 1200 or so.